TijnCU
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« Reply #150 on: January 29, 2017, 07:43:40 AM »
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I have considered a vacuum setup as well, but I like the feature of having a louder idle and overrun as well. The quality of this valve is obviously shitnese, but if it fails I can always cut it open and put in a new valve/motor. I hope to have at least a little more reliability at first by having a custom electrical circuit with proper components... I dont think that 150€ is a lot of money for a quality part, so I will keep this in mind! All in all, this current cutout has cost me around 70€ including tax etc already. One of the problems of driving the 1.8t in a brick like the VW T3 is the lack of vacuum on the highway, I am always on boost due to air resistance.. When I drive around 90 there is not so much engine noise or drone, but that would kill the whole idea of swapping engines  |
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TijnCU
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« Reply #151 on: February 24, 2017, 08:52:31 AM »
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So.. its been a while since I have worked on the car, lots of other stuff on my mind and in my life at the moment. My second child was born this month, so I am a little low on energy  But, the bus needed its periodical check and I knew about some parts that needed replacing. So I went to my friend and put it on the hoist, replaced both sides lower balljoints and dust covers on the steering rack  Other side reassembled, still love the brakes  lunchbreak with a view  At home I made a small adapter for the map sensor out of 6068, and my friend welded it on the intercooler ( I dont have an A/C tig at home). looks good, the chinesium alloy welds just fine :-)  I brought the hybrid turbo too, but unfortunately we ran out of time... I need to find another day when my wife will let me leave the house again  Today the bus got approved for another 2 years now, and the VW mechanics had a little fun with the launch control in the workshop. I use the custom ecu tuning as an excuse for the lack of bodywork maintenance  I am considering stroking my spare block to 2067cc to allow for a larger turbo in the future, my eye has fallen on a 12cm twinscroll hx35 for when I decide I need even more power. I would love to make a nice twinscroll manifold for such a setup. But first I need to get the hybrid running and tuned (ridiculous even thinking about an upgrade before upgrade is installed right?) |
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spacecadet
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« Reply #152 on: February 24, 2017, 10:27:13 AM »
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Awesome build! Congrats on the new family member.
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turbojohan
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« Reply #153 on: February 24, 2017, 01:55:16 PM »
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congrads!
HX35 isn't great for spool on that engine..
I build one on a M50b25 bmw makes 510 hp but spool is not great for daily driver..
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TijnCU
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« Reply #154 on: February 24, 2017, 04:11:26 PM »
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Just looking around, not purchasing anything yet. Need to build the block first  the holset got my attention because you can get thenm everywhere for cheap and there are a lot of flavours. There are over a dozen different housings for the hx series, even as small as 8cm² t3. Ive seen a video of a Mitsubishi 2.0 engine spooling the 12cm² twin scroll by 3000rpm, I thought that was pretty impressive for such a big turbo and it then got my interest. Not really looking for 500hp atm but if its possible without spooling after 3500rpm I'm all ears I wouldnt want to choke the engine with a small k04 after increasing displacement But for now that is all just fantasy, need to install the hybrid first, get it tuned well and then need to put some cash aside for custom pistons... |
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« Last Edit: February 24, 2017, 04:13:37 PM by TijnCU »
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TijnCU
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« Reply #155 on: March 08, 2017, 08:31:07 AM »
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Currently working on tuning my fuel switch, I disabled all scaling and offsets in the LPG ecu and this now only takes care of gas temperature and pressure fluctuations. Me7 is giving out the global injection times by using a different krkte and a additive tvub offset. Had a hard time making a switchable tvub function, for some reason the ecu was unhappy. But, since I dont have correct offset data on the lpg injectors I just made a small function that adds a given injection time to the output of tvub when the ecu is in lpg mode. I found it was hard to keep afr under control when the me7 injector times are not equal to the piggyback, a 1ms correction from me7 could mean a 3ms correction in reality. Now I can also observe IDC better, I think I need to run close to the maximum injector flow with the k04h
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TijnCU
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« Reply #156 on: March 15, 2017, 08:49:34 AM »
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Bought a set of good S3 pistons today, I will do a bit of a budget build on the new block first but I'd like to make the block a bit more durable. Offcourse the pistons are coupled to a set of forged H beams. I decided I dont want to blow over a 1000€ on parts and machining when there are much better and cheaper alternatives (like a bigger engine). So first I wanted to just go with the stock pistons, but after looking at the tapered wrist pin design, I decided to go with the 20mm S3 version instead. I am hoping they are 9:1 compression, but not too sure on that. I will measure the domes when they are here and compare them to the ARY pistons I have here. I had some leftover heatwrap laying around so I decided to wrap my manifold before install, it will be super close to the fiberglass engine lid so this at least helps to keep the heat down in the back of the van...  Added pressure port on the compressor cover  |
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« Last Edit: March 17, 2017, 01:15:12 AM by TijnCU »
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brs
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« Reply #157 on: March 16, 2017, 10:24:44 AM »
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Great project
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TijnCU
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« Reply #158 on: March 17, 2017, 09:20:44 AM »
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Thanks! Well, shit. Today I decided it was time for the k03 to retire, and I started removing parts early this afternoon. After draining coolant and having everything but the manifold off, I started unbolting. First one came with the stud, second one snaps! 3rd bolt...snaps too! I then decided this wasnt my day and put everything back together (only now with 2 less nuts holding the manifold). Not going to risk breaking more, I need the car tomorrow.. so the turbo swap will be a bit of a challenge when I find the time to do it  Only upside from today is that I now had time to make a proper heatshield where the downpipe passes the cv joint. I was melting the covers on traffic jams  |
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« Last Edit: March 22, 2017, 05:49:16 AM by TijnCU »
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rotax
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« Reply #160 on: March 23, 2017, 11:56:03 PM »
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I noticed on some pictures of your engine that you've left the pressure ref unconnected on the FPR, mistake or intentionally?
Is the (4B0906018CA 0261206917 0003 1.8T AWT Audi A6 150hp) bin a returnless fulesystem bin? Just as the A4 B5.5 mostly are.
(I assumed you're running this bin, as per your other posts...)
If running returnless software then i can see why running the FRP ref unconnected otherwise it's not right.
Or you might have a good reason?!? :-O
/D
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TijnCU
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« Reply #161 on: March 24, 2017, 12:06:28 AM »
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No, it is connected. Maybe that was when I had an external pressure regulator installed, but at the moment I am on an OEM3 bar regulator with 550cc's. To be honest, I dont know if the CA bin is a return fuel system or not, but my system is return fuel. I dont have any fuel issues... Thanks for thinking with me! |
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TijnCU
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« Reply #163 on: March 24, 2017, 01:48:17 AM »
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It is very hard to be sure these days, but ARP states the following: Edited: Mar 13, 2017 Product Information:
While there have yet to be counterfeit or copycat fasteners found actually stamped "ARP" -- fasteners with the ARP trademarked "2000" branding have been found.
....
ARP bolts are all manufactured in the USA and are specifically marked "ARP" along with the alloy, such as "2000" or "8740." Copycat bolts do not match the quality or tensile strength of authentic ARP bolts and have nowhere near the fatigue strength.
ARP aggressively pursues manufacturers and sellers of copycat ARP bolts and counterfeit packaging and forces them to stop. There are also competitors that copy the ARP look to deceive consumers. This should mean that they are genuine, the seller also states the bolts as genuine ARP 2000 bolts. I sent an email to ARP to check. Fingers crossed  I have read on other forums that the manufacturer is in fact using authentic ARP products, so I am not very worried I Just got off the phone with Zack at ARP, he works in the tech dept., he confirmend that Maxspeeding is indeed using ARP rod bolts I have had some contact with the supplier the past weeks, I initially ordered the 19mm rods but they are really narrow (20mm everywhere). Besides that, there was no taper on the small end, so I needed to machine that for myself. At this point I just didnt want to stick with those rods, and I asked the supplier for options. I got to change them for 20mm pin versions (which are the correct 24.9mm big end width as well) free of charge. Shipping was only 1 day from Germany to the Netherlands, so all in all I was happy how business went with them. |
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« Last Edit: March 24, 2017, 02:47:31 AM by TijnCU »
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rotax
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« Reply #164 on: March 24, 2017, 12:02:41 PM »
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It is very hard to be sure these days, but ARP states the following: This should mean that they are genuine, the seller also states the bolts as genuine ARP 2000 bolts. I sent an email to ARP to check. Fingers crossed I have read on other forums that the manufacturer is in fact using authentic ARP products, so I am not very worried I have had some contact with the supplier the past weeks, I initially ordered the 19mm rods but they are really narrow (20mm everywhere). Besides that, there was no taper on the small end, so I needed to machine that for myself. At this point I just didnt want to stick with those rods, and I asked the supplier for options. I got to change them for 20mm pin versions (which are the correct 24.9mm big end width as well) free of charge. Shipping was only 1 day from Germany to the Netherlands, so all in all I was happy how business went with them. Who did you buy the rods from? Any clearance issues in the 058 block? What did you pay for them? |
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