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mister t
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« Reply #15 on: September 19, 2015, 11:27:12 AM »
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so I built a new bench flasher and a new power source.
it's a 12V circuit tester (adjusted to put out exactly 13V), 5amp, nice and stable DC
found another junkyard ecu to experiment on and still, it bricked itself as soon as I tried to put it into boot mode...
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mister t
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« Reply #16 on: September 20, 2015, 02:03:42 AM »
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So I saw this on another forum and I just wanted a sanity check.
Can anyone explain how this file is used as i know someone who needs to put a new ecu in his car after trying to write in boot mode and putting 12v to the boot pin instead of ground.
when you're putting the ECU into bootmode, you're supposed to touch a ground wire from the 12v power source to pin 24 (the second pin from the left) on the EEPROM.
Also, I have my bench flasher set up to deliver power to pins 3, 21 and 62 correct, not just pin 3?
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turboat
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« Reply #18 on: September 20, 2015, 03:39:08 AM »
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Given its bricking when you bootmode it, this might not be the issue - why don't you post a photo of your ECU board and highlight the pin you are earthing? |
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prj
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« Reply #19 on: September 20, 2015, 05:34:18 AM »
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I have a switch that interrupts the negative lead to both the ECU and the VCDS cable (K line is pin 43). It's really damn obvious what is going on. He is interrupting GROUND instead of 12V. So the whole ECU has 12V on it the entire time. After that he touches pin 24 to the ground. This pin becomes the only ground point inside the ECU at that point. Now the ECU tries to power up from that ground and obviously fries the MCU and probably the flash with it. I'm sure as hell the internal MCU contacts are not 200ma rated... Basic electronics class would not go amiss for a lot of you on here. |
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« Last Edit: September 20, 2015, 05:36:43 AM by prj »
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nyet
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« Reply #21 on: September 20, 2015, 02:13:06 PM »
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It's really damn obvious what is going on.
He is interrupting GROUND instead of 12V.
So the whole ECU has 12V on it the entire time.
After that he touches pin 24 to the ground. This pin becomes the only ground point inside the ECU at that point.
Now the ECU tries to power up from that ground and obviously fries the MCU and probably the flash with it. I'm sure as hell the internal MCU contacts are not 200ma rated...
Basic electronics class would not go amiss for a lot of you on here.
Never occurred to me that someone would do this. Not in a million years. |
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hopsis
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« Reply #22 on: September 20, 2015, 11:49:39 PM »
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Seems plausible. Although it depends where you ground the pin24. The way I do it, I have a gatorclip with a piece of wire. Gatorclip end goes to the ecu board edge where it has a nice shiny ground strip going all around the board and the other end I just stick to the pin. That way the only ground connection will always just be between the pin and board ground.
So if that is how OP has it, then the problem is someplace else. If however OP has grounded the pin24 to somewhere before the ON/OFF switch on the negative lead to the whole flash rig, that would result in exactly what prj explained before.
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prj
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« Reply #23 on: September 21, 2015, 01:22:40 AM »
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Seems plausible. Although it depends where you ground the pin24. The way I do it, I have a gatorclip with a piece of wire. Gatorclip end goes to the ecu board edge where it has a nice shiny ground strip going all around the board and the other end I just stick to the pin. That way the only ground connection will always just be between the pin and board ground.
So if that is how OP has it, then the problem is someplace else. If however OP has grounded the pin24 to somewhere before the ON/OFF switch on the negative lead to the whole flash rig, that would result in exactly what prj explained before.
then once I tried to enter boot mode by grounding pin 24 to the power source I was using Perhaps try reading the first post? This guy fucked up two really basic principles (interrupting ground, grounding pin 24 to the power supply directly and not the ECU board). Now he is paying for it (literally). |
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« Last Edit: September 21, 2015, 01:25:00 AM by prj »
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hopsis
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« Reply #24 on: September 21, 2015, 03:37:53 AM »
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You're right, I missed that part.
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adam-
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« Reply #25 on: September 21, 2015, 03:39:46 AM »
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(interrupting ground, grounding pin 24 to the power supply directly and not the ECU board). What's wrong with grounding to the power supply, rather than the board? Surely it's the same ground? |
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prj
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« Reply #26 on: September 21, 2015, 03:22:11 PM »
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Wer lesen kann, ist klar im Vorteil.
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nyet
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« Reply #27 on: September 21, 2015, 03:23:19 PM »
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What's wrong with grounding to the power supply, rather than the board? Surely it's the same ground?
Not if you disconnect the ground from the rest of the ECU ... |
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mister t
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« Reply #28 on: September 21, 2015, 11:06:09 PM »
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I'm referring to this photo which indicates that pin 21 should be wired in  |
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mister t
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« Reply #29 on: September 21, 2015, 11:09:39 PM »
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Perhaps try reading the first post?
This guy fucked up two really basic principles (interrupting ground, grounding pin 24 to the power supply directly and not the ECU board). Now he is paying for it (literally).
Hey buddy, I'm gonna give you a pass on this one, but tone down the language next time got it..... I'm asking for some help with an issue and I don't need any attitude. If you don't want to act civil, then please post elsewhere. Now, if I understand correctly from your post and the other posts, what I need to do is power up the board and then run a clip from the side of the board to the boot pin to give it 12V? What I don't get is that if I interrupt the positive lead coming into the ECU and try to ground from the side of the board, where is the positive charge to complete the circuit and give me the 12V? Unfortunately, while there are quite a few text explanations on how to do this, there aren't many physical pictures of an entire stripped down bench flasher reference when I built my flasher. |
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« Last Edit: September 21, 2015, 11:41:43 PM by mister t »
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