cgramme
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« Reply #30 on: October 25, 2017, 10:14:41 AM »
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the 4 mo has 230,000 miles on it and the head has never been split form the block, ive personally setup and tuned 10+ big turbo setups local and have had a few drive hours to get setup and tuned over the last 3 years or so and none of them have lost a bottom or bent a rod. k04-015, 001, 023, f21, f23 are the rod launchers end of story. the t04e is perfect for a 1.8t its big enough and laggy enough to be rod safe and with a .63 ar housing is perfect for a 1.8t.
Good to hear. Not sure why some people are adamant about it being a bad idea. Everything Seems to point at < 4500 rpm high torque is the rod killer. The way I see it, it's 5 or 6 flashes, all of which can be prepared ahead of time. You can go out and get all the logs you need in about a 1/2 hour. Or, you can try to manually calibrate your PID, which will likely take many more revisions and trial and error, and it still won't be as good as science can make it.  I'm going to have to try it this way. Read over the thread last night and everyone seems to have good results. I just moved though so now I have to find a good road with no 5-0 to do some logs. All the info makes me feel much better about getting it tuned right. I'm just wondering about how to tune for higher wgdc than my engine can handle. I guess I can use a mbc in parallel with the n75 to keep boost down at high rpm and then do some guessing and manually adjust for the tampered areas. |
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« Last Edit: October 25, 2017, 10:16:20 AM by cgramme »
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BlkSerialKilla
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That's Just The Nature Of The Beast...
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« Reply #31 on: October 25, 2017, 12:04:13 PM »
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Good to hear. Not sure why some people are adamant about it being a bad idea. Everything Seems to point at < 4500 rpm high torque is the rod killer.
I'm going to have to try it this way. Read over the thread last night and everyone seems to have good results. I just moved though so now I have to find a good road with no 5-0 to do some logs. All the info makes me feel much better about getting it tuned right. I'm just wondering about how to tune for higher wgdc than my engine can handle. I guess I can use a mbc in parallel with the n75 to keep boost down at high rpm and then do some guessing and manually adjust for the tampered areas.
If my understanding is correct for higher wgdc or control you would probably be working in open loop and adjusting KFLDRL: https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#Specifying_requested_boost |
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TijnCU
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flying brick
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« Reply #32 on: October 25, 2017, 01:11:32 PM »
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You can do a guesstimation for the higher DC%. I wanted to have them all sort of true to reality so I just let her rip. (I did not calibrate for 95%) If your tune is not 5120 hacked you can probably better step off the throttle over 1.5 bar boost. The above mentioned tool works very neat, I also just exported 8 tunes with different kfldrapp limits and flashed them after each other. Would be even quicker and less dangerous if you do this on a rolling road though (and potentially cheaper, end of 3rd gear is over the speed limit on most roads).
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SB_GLI
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« Reply #33 on: October 25, 2017, 02:41:14 PM »
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Mine took 1 hour, with me changing the flash after every run, and the boost is spot on with no hunting. A little overshoot, but WAY better than stock Yeah, but with a stock turbo and stock wastegate. The PID is already calibrated for you under 12psi. Change the turbo or any related hardware and it's not as easy to get the PID working at all rpms/boost levels. Just about anyone can tune WOT boost manually, it's everything in between can be a shitshow. |
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Carsinc
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« Reply #34 on: November 03, 2017, 02:22:13 PM »
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I just wanted to ad that there is not reason to remove the engine or the sub frame to put rods in a 1.8t,
take the head off, take the front motor mount brakets off and lower the front of the sub frame while jacking the engine up.
Its pretty easy to out rods in any 1.8t.
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cgramme
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« Reply #35 on: December 04, 2017, 11:34:43 AM »
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I just started to disassemble my car to replace with the new turbo, and after draining the oil I found pieces of plastic.  I know this doesn't exactly have to do with tuning but I frankly trust this forums knowledge over any other audi/vw forum. This is putting a little damper on my mood and motivation to install the turbo... Here is a picture of what the pieces look like. Hopefully it has something to do with me removing the valve cover recently and installing it back with the same valve cover seal. The large black ring is about 2" diameter. This isn't my actual photo, but the pieces look identical. Thanks if anyone has any ideas of what it could be.  |
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BlkSerialKilla
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That's Just The Nature Of The Beast...
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« Reply #36 on: December 04, 2017, 12:57:15 PM »
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I just started to disassemble my car to replace with the new turbo, and after draining the oil I found pieces of plastic. I know this doesn't exactly have to do with tuning but I frankly trust this forums knowledge over any other audi/vw forum. This is putting a little damper on my mood and motivation to install the turbo... Here is a picture of what the pieces look like. Hopefully it has something to do with me removing the valve cover recently and installing it back with the same valve cover seal. The large black ring is about 2" diameter. This isn't my actual photo, but the pieces look identical. Thanks if anyone has any ideas of what it could be. I'm not certain about the black seal but that beige piece is possibly from the cam chain tentioner ; worth checking as its a known issue. |
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cgramme
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« Reply #37 on: December 04, 2017, 04:01:19 PM »
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That is kinda what I am hoping, although I did change my oil about 200mi ago and saw nothing in it. Pretty much the last thing i wanted to see when I was about to run a large turbo. My first thought was rear main seal, but I don't think it's made up of this type of plastic and I don't have an oil leak. Anyway, I continue the turbo install and then look into what this could be before driving it.  |
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cgramme
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« Reply #38 on: December 04, 2017, 04:43:17 PM »
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Here are the actual pieces I found in my oil today. Some of them were larger but I broke them trying to figure out what they were made of ect... Everything seemed to be running fine and there aren't any oil leaks to my knowledge. I don't think it's caused any detrimental damage yet but I don't feel ok with driving the car until I find the culprit and replace it. Any other thoughts on what's in this pan of gold?   |
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_nameless
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« Reply #39 on: December 05, 2017, 04:30:52 AM »
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It looks like the tensioner pad for the oil pump chain. Big turbo passat is going strong https://youtu.be/UHuzl7Cc_Pc |
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Giving your mom a tuneup
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Carsinc
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« Reply #40 on: December 06, 2017, 01:06:35 PM »
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i bet its part of the pcv 90 and the orange thing is dipstick tube.
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mister t
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« Reply #41 on: December 06, 2017, 02:32:39 PM »
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**Disclaimer** I didn't get a chance to read the entire thread, but has anyone had an engine blow while running water/meth (which was running at the time of failure)?
I ask this as I've ran the equivalent of an F21 and GTRS elim at 21 PSI both on W/M for 2 years (and ran them HARD) and never suffered a rod failure.
I was also running an AEM E-boost controller at about 85-90 DC, so both turbos were making peak boost as soon as they possibly could.
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« Last Edit: December 06, 2017, 02:36:37 PM by mister t »
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SB_GLI
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« Reply #42 on: December 06, 2017, 04:04:26 PM »
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**Disclaimer** I didn't get a chance to read the entire thread, but has anyone had an engine blow while running water/meth (which was running at the time of failure)?
I ask this as I've ran the equivalent of an F21 and GTRS elim at 21 PSI both on W/M for 2 years (and ran them HARD) and never suffered a rod failure.
Yes. F21, W/M, 20psi... ran it for 3-4 years like this and then one day... kablewy |
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fknbrkn
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mk4 1.8T AUM
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« Reply #43 on: December 07, 2017, 12:46:30 AM »
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I have the same experience with chinese k04
Was using it for a year with 1.4 ok
And after some maintenance i forget to connect n75 line to high pipe
Much bars such wow aand bended rod after few pulls
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adam-
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« Reply #44 on: December 07, 2017, 01:12:19 AM »
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