cgramme
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« on: October 23, 2017, 02:02:14 PM »
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I'm getting ready to install and tune a generic t3/t4 50 trim turbo on my 2003 A4 AMB 1.8t. Yes, I am aware of the concerns of running cheap generic turbos but many have used them with success, and frankly I don't want to dump a ton of cash into this car. I already have all the parts for the build except the downpipe which I will fabricate myself when I take the stock parts out. All the supporting upgrades are in place... 630cc (at 4 bar) EV14 injectors are tuned and fuel trims are pretty much perfect. Also, I have installed a front mount intercooler. For now I'm going to run the stock exhaust with an electronic cutout after the downpipe. Trying to keep it as much of a sleeper as possible. I guess the main question I have is regarding KFLDIMX at this point. I've been doing a lot of research and want to make sure I get this right, but still am not sure how to go about tuning it. My new wastegate is 8lb so very close to the stock 7lb spring. Hoping someone with experience will chime in here and shed some light on big turbo PID tuning. More info on the car and my goals for it are on a website I created which also has a nice intercooler DIY - cgramme.github.io/a4 Thanks in advance for the expert advice. |
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KasperH
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« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2017, 03:33:47 PM »
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vwaudiguy
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« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2017, 04:13:32 PM »
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Think your original rods are up to the task?
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"If you have a chinese turbo, that you are worried is going to blow up when you floor it, then LOL."
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BlkSerialKilla
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That's Just The Nature Of The Beast...
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« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2017, 08:29:32 PM »
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I'm curious as well in regard to rods  |
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vwaudiguy
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« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2017, 08:50:42 PM »
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I've heard every excuse in the book. Had two cars in the past 6 months with holes in the block. It's really sad, because this should be common knowledge at this point.
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"If you have a chinese turbo, that you are worried is going to blow up when you floor it, then LOL."
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cgramme
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« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2017, 09:56:01 PM »
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The information on stock rods I've read has all been pretty consistent. Everything seems to say that anything above 300 whp is when you run into trouble. I'm not trying to make a hp monster, just something fun to drive. Also, Since I am using a journal bearing turbo the boost isn't going to hit until around 4000 rpm which is good considering boost spikes and low rpm boost is a common rod killer. I'm also going to run a manual boost controller in parallel with the N75 to protect from boost spikes. vwaudiguy, tell me about what you were running when your engine took a dump.
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cgramme
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« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2017, 10:30:14 PM »
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_nameless
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« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2017, 04:01:04 AM »
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I've heard every excuse in the book. Had two cars in the past 6 months with holes in the block. It's really sad, because this should be common knowledge at this point.
Think your original rods are up to the task?
I'm curious as well in regard to rods .8 lambda, e85, 27° timing full boost, stock rods , 3 bar msp sensor, mafless rods 24 psi 367whp 312wheel tq. Going on year 3. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8xzp5p6XODghttp://sendvid.com/bwg1rd1p |
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« Last Edit: October 24, 2017, 07:49:24 AM by Marty »
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Giving your mom a tuneup
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SB_GLI
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« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2017, 07:34:46 AM »
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I blew up my block with a f21 @ 20psi around 4,5000rpm. Rod #4 snapped and blew holes in the block. I took logs that very same day, no knock, no boost spikes everything was running perfectly. Stock rods with anything near 300ft/lb torque and it's just a matter of time. My advice, be ready with a new short block to save on downtime.  |
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_nameless
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« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2017, 07:45:30 AM »
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I blew up my block with a f21 @ 20psi around 4,5000rpm. Rod #4 snapped and blew holes in the block. I took logs that very same day, no knock, no boost spikes everything was running perfectly. Stock rods with anything near 300ft/lb torque and it's just a matter of time. My advice, be ready with a new short block to save on downtime. it comes down to frame size. peak tq at 5,5k is a lot safer then 4000rpm or lower. |
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Giving your mom a tuneup
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Carsinc
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« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2017, 08:01:54 AM »
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it comes down to frame size. peak tq at 5,5k is a lot safer then 4000rpm or lower.
This i agree with. I would never recommend it, but i will say you are safer with a bigger slower spooling turbo |
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Pasteurised
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« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2017, 08:42:21 AM »
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Why not use KFLDHBN to cap boost at low rpm to keep the torque down?
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BlkSerialKilla
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That's Just The Nature Of The Beast...
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2017, 09:44:51 AM »
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This is inspirational  well I'm following along here then, I'm awaiting a GT2860RS and have concerns of grenading but my understanding is low RPM and high boost will be a no-no. Would running for example a taper of 17-22 PSI from 3000 to 7200 be okay? |
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SB_GLI
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« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2017, 10:22:34 AM »
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Why not use KFLDHBN to cap boost at low rpm to keep the torque down?
I took the approach of limiting torque at lower rpms too. Worked fine for a couple years, and then one day...BOOOM. You roll the dice every time you step on the pedal with stock rods. I enjoy no longer having to pucker my asshole in fear of total destruction every time I stomp on the gas pedal. |
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Carsinc
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« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2017, 10:24:27 AM »
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I dont get it, rods are cheap. You can do rods for what you save tuning it youtself
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