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Author Topic: what is wrong with my car\tune ? (log inside)  (Read 29537 times)
Leon Mk1
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« Reply #15 on: January 13, 2012, 09:17:45 AM »

all DTC clean
i did checked for all vacumm tubes and did a vacumm test even before started to do logs
i have greddy boost control so the N75 is not the problem
my MAF is in 3'' housing (tt25,vr6).
on this turbo 320hp is low, with stock motor and 2-2.2bar of boost i need to see more then 400whp
i thinking to do a wot log without maf maybe it will do diffrence
i wand to do logs with the me7 logger but dont know how
tnx
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TTQS
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« Reply #16 on: January 13, 2012, 09:56:12 AM »

all DTC clean
i did checked for all vacumm tubes and did a vacumm test even before started to do logs
i have greddy boost control so the N75 is not the problem
my MAF is in 3'' housing (tt25,vr6).
on this turbo 320hp is low, with stock motor and 2-2.2bar of boost i need to see more then 400whp
i thinking to do a wot log without maf maybe it will do diffrence
i wand to do logs with the me7 logger but dont know how

O.k., well you're pretty clued up on most of the common problems. As you say, with your hardware, the 295 bhp you're peaking at is way low so probably an issue with the remap not getting the most out of the big turbo.

First port of call is going to be some quality 3rd & 4th gear WOT pulls with ME7logger. Carl will provide your ECU image. I was a bit frightened of the utility at first (not being particularly IT minded, but in fact it's very simple to use with the GUI.

If the state of the recalibration is the problem and not a hardware fault, then it's going to be difficult for anyone on here to help if we can't examine your remapped code, particularly stuff like KFMIRL and LDRXN for load control and you'll be at the mercy of your tuning guy. Shame because diagnostics are interesting and I would almost certainly learn something.

TTQS
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carlossus
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Leon Curpa Stg1+


« Reply #17 on: January 13, 2012, 12:25:05 PM »

sorry, cant post my ME7L config as my laptop is dead and ive left the psu at work Sad

however, i'll post asap if you cant figure it out from the readme. The stock HN is in the original files section already. If you use the GUI it's even simpler.

I have to say though, with your mods you really would save a shit load of time and end up with a better tune if you spent a day on a dyno with a skilled tuner.
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Leon Mk1
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« Reply #18 on: January 14, 2012, 09:25:25 AM »

BTW
this log that i did was @ 14-15 psi
so maybe it's the reason why the maf reading are low ?
if i had 30 psi of boost the values should be higher or the same ?
and can it be that a bad maf cause this problem ?
any way i must do a log with disconnected maf
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TTQS
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« Reply #19 on: January 14, 2012, 09:52:03 AM »

BTW
this log that i did was @ 14-15 psi
so maybe it's the reason why the maf reading are low ?
if i had 30 psi of boost the values should be higher or the same ?
and can it be that a bad maf cause this problem ?
any way i must do a log with disconnected maf


If the MAF sensor is faulty or fouled, you'll read less air mass flow than actual so you would run lean so you would be down on power too. I understand that if you disconnect the MAF sensor, the ECU will run on modelled air mass flows so will also be down on power.

I presume your tuner has rescaled the MLHFM table appropriately because of the different diameter MAF housing you are using? I suppose with the TT225 MAF sensor and housing, you can just copy the table straight across from that ECU. I don't think that would account for such a large discrepancy between the theoretical mass flow on your hardware to what you're actually measuring.

I would remove and examine the MAF sensor first, clean it with brake & clutch cleaner than refit and try again. If it looks suspect, buy a replacement MAF sensor and try that. It's worth having a spare anyway.

TTQS
« Last Edit: January 14, 2012, 10:17:14 AM by TTQS » Logged
rob.mwpropane
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« Reply #20 on: January 14, 2012, 11:29:08 AM »

Fwiw, I've always cleaned my MAF with MAF cleaner or a good electronics cleaner. I've read that the harsher cleaners can mess up the MAF sensor. Who knows? I just know I don't use brake cleaner. Maybe that's a myth?
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TTQS
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« Reply #21 on: January 14, 2012, 02:15:12 PM »

Fwiw, I've always cleaned my MAF with MAF cleaner or a good electronics cleaner. I've read that the harsher cleaners can mess up the MAF sensor. Who knows? I just know I don't use brake cleaner. Maybe that's a myth?

The only thing to avoid is any solvent that will leave a residue. Brake and clutch cleaners generally don't do that, but yes, electronics cleaner is ideal. I have a PhD in chemistry so I tend to know what ingredients to look out for  Wink

The older solvents such as trichloroethylene and methylene chloride are being phased out in favour of less carcinogenic and ozone-depleting compounds such as propan-2-ol (isopropanol or isopropyl alcohol), often with pentane or naphtha and a fluorinated short-chain hydrocarbon such as 1,1-difluoroethane, but a variety are used depending on the particular formulation.

Think about it... would you want a slippery residue left on your brake discs or pads?

TTQS
« Last Edit: January 14, 2012, 02:52:15 PM by TTQS » Logged
rob.mwpropane
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« Reply #22 on: January 14, 2012, 10:59:05 PM »

The only thing to avoid is any solvent that will leave a residue. Brake and clutch cleaners generally don't do that, but yes, electronics cleaner is ideal. I have a PhD in chemistry so I tend to know what ingredients to look out for  Wink

The older solvents such as trichloroethylene and methylene chloride are being phased out in favour of less carcinogenic and ozone-depleting compounds such as propan-2-ol (isopropanol or isopropyl alcohol), often with pentane or naphtha and a fluorinated short-chain hydrocarbon such as 1,1-difluoroethane, but a variety are used depending on the particular formulation.

Think about it... would you want a slippery residue left on your brake discs or pads?

TTQS

Makes sense. I don't have a PhD in chemistry, so I'll take your word for it Grin I know here we have the expensive MAF cleaner, or you can get the much less expensive electronics cleaner.
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TTQS
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« Reply #23 on: January 15, 2012, 08:11:20 AM »

You made a good point though. Don't take chances with chemicals and expensive electronic components. Formulations vary from country to country.

TTQS
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Leon Mk1
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« Reply #24 on: January 16, 2012, 09:59:43 AM »

update
disconect the maf sensor and did some cruising and wot- car run even leaner at wot
i just ordered new maf sensor and waiting till it's came
when i'll have the new maf i'll go the my tuner and i hope the car get better
just curious- if i'll read my ecu on the bench- can i open the .bin file and edit it or it still be protected file and unreadable ?

for maentime i downloaded the ME7Logger and found .bin file for my ecu (032hn) it's not that complicated as i thoght
but there is so much variables and i dont understand which is what, i started with the file that you attached (TTQS)
and edit it a lil bit
the labda actuel and Desired are the wideband write ?
Fuel Mass Relative what does it show ?
Ambient Pressure same qustion ?
Cylinder Charge Relative ?

and tnx again for the help
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carlossus
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Leon Curpa Stg1+


« Reply #25 on: January 16, 2012, 01:19:50 PM »

If you're used to using VagCom then you can see which variables are equivalent to which measurement groups from the 1st attachment. These are also generated by ME7L / ME7Info.

I've also attached the cfg I use for general logging.
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julex
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« Reply #26 on: January 17, 2012, 04:18:23 PM »

changing injectors and afr will get you in trouble without proper KRKTE and TVUB adjustment. You said you run 3bar fpr before with 550cc... what is it now with the 660s you have?

As arule of thumb, the larger the injector, the more time it needs to open. Also, when rising FPR pressure, the injector also need more time to open. That's two "more time to open" in your case with the changes you've made.


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Leon Mk1
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« Reply #27 on: March 27, 2012, 10:30:26 PM »

finaly i had time to make some adjustments
i changed the KRKTE to:  0.046953

and TVUB
7.9552     9.9968    11.9680    14.0096    15.9808
1.0935     0.7334     0.5174     0.4374      0.3920

on 3BAR FPR the values on block 32 are:

5.1    -4.7

idle is jumpy
and still i have same problem at wot
the O2 lambda adding fuel from low RPM to the end
and on the end of the gear car goes way lean
i have log that i made from 4th gear @ 1bar~

630cc
walbro
3076 ar82
maf
W/M injection
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