What does this mean in the generic sense for someone just getting into self-tuning?

The way I understand it now... there's a map for global AFR (LAMFA), then maps for enrichment via EGT (BTS stuff) and then maps for enrichment under knock.  The consensus seems to be that LAMFA is utterly useless, though, because it deals with driver input, but not necessarily real-time engine load.... which is what we really care about when tweaking our AFRs to provide optimal power / protection.

What is the easiest / most sane path to achieving proper AFRs?  Should I even bother looking at LAMFA?

From experience, 91oct is like this, even with water/meth. But if KR correction works, I will be using that instead of BTS enrichment for the rest of the time.

Yeah... I had to go back and reread everything to try and get a grip on things.  In the end, the lowest lambda should win for the lambda that the ECU will try and meet.  LAMFA is the global AFR, where only driver input is taken into consideration and actual load is not factored in.  Then things can be further modified by the BTS tables where compensation can be added for modeled EGTs.  Building on that, the KR AFR tables allow further enrichment based on current knock values.

Where I'm still slightly confused is that julex seemed to indicate that instead of the current approach of using the BTS tables with an artificially low TAGBTS value.. you could use the KR AFR tables to do the same thing and get more of a benefit... but I'm confused on how doing any targeted AFRs, as in "this is the AFR I want when things are working as intended", in a table that deals with enrichment under knock, is the "right" way to do it.  

the beauty of what we have here is muddled by the complexity of it all.
here's my stance on the order of tuning now, and i think there's still a good bit of work to be done before everyone sees eye-to-eye on this stuff.
0)  start with a bone stock m-box, code out your egts and rear o2s and cats, to whatever degree you want/need
1)  scale mlhfm to your maf, either bosch or hitachi
2)  eliminate fuel corrections.  set the following maps to flat / 1.00 until rough fuel tuning is done:
       KFLF (partial)
       FKKVS (returnless fuel system correction)
       KFKHFM (maf correction factors)
3)  reorganize LAMFA, re-axis and at the least enable the percentages to be:  50/60/70/80/90/100
     set TABGBTS to 750 / 800  (like the RS4), and setup KFLBTS to have afrs in the 10-11 range, like a pure safety map

4)  get KFMIRL / KFMIOP sorted out
5)  set KRKTE and TVUB
6)  repeat 5 until LTFT's are zero'd out

7)  NOW you can turn on KR-based AFR's...
8.)  start tuning your timing and use KFLF / stft's to averge out your corrections
9)  repeat steps 8 and 5/6 until your corrected LTFT's are zero'd out.

10)  your car is an animal

Any steps here that would change if you were using a 1.8T?  I can't imagine there would be, but just curious.  Also, while we're on the subject... is there much to do in the way of tweaking the stock MAF table if you're on a stock MAF?  Should one even worry about KFKHFM if they aren't using a non-stock MAF?

No, unless your intake is modified.

This may work with better gas, but with Cali 91 I find that the instant enrichment provided by LAMFA helps immensely to prevent knock. Also, I don't really see the point of practically disabling BTS.

Why not use all of the tools available to us?

LAMFA > KFLAMKR (no KR) > LAMBTS > KFLAMKR (with KR, hopefully not needed)

To me this provides the ability to safely maximize power.