Hello, I have the eeprom file from the MED 9.1.1 ECU from an audi s5 4.2L. I cannot figure out what fields I need to change to disable or virginize the immo. If anyone has some information or leads, please help me out.

I retrieved the file using a Ktag unit, though those don't seem too popular around here.

Attached below is the file

Thanks for any info!
-Zing

My ktag is currently out of order, because it connected to the internet 

It will be a little before I can retrieve the other 2 files for anyone

Hello everyone, I am here again. Was gone for a while taking a break from this stuff and doing some mechanical work, but now that thats almost finished up ive begun this again. Unfortunately for me, the immobilizer is still a real problem, and when scanned will give me a "02241 - Engine Control Module; Immobilizer Data not Adapted" basically saying the immobilizer doesnt like where it is. So I'm back to square one

test immo off
if all is ok press buttons

You have no idea what you are talking about. What a load of drivel.

immo off on med9.1.1 works just fine, if done properly.

All-
Brand new to the forum.  Not new to cars or electronics, although I haven't done much with ECUs.  More of a mechanical guy vs. electrical, but not so dumb as to look at PCBs like a hog looking at a wristwatch.  Not scared to try anything that comes with a pretty good set of instructions.

I have a 2011 Audi S5 with an automatic transmission.  ECU 8T0 907 560 AD.  The car has an APR Stage III supercharger, so is tuned accordingly.  

All of a sudden, something isn't running right.  Misfiring on one bank of cylinders only.  I've swapped virtually EVERY non-internal mechanical component and sensor that applies to only one bank of cylinders (cam sensors/valves, O2 sensors, plugs, coils, injectors, etc) but to no avail.  I am testing the wiring harness itself and am almost at the point of throwing a scope on the injector and coil ECU outputs to see if there is a detectable problem.  I've opened the ECU and see no obvious signs of damage (i.e. burned components).  Quickly approaching a point where I am going to try an ECU replacement to see if that fixes things.  So here we are:

1)  If I buy a used ECU, I have to have the dealer code it ($$) and then have an APR tuner re-flash it ($$$) and if it still doesn't fix the problem, then it's all money down the drain.  
2)  If I buy a used ECU and am somehow able to "clone" the memory of the current ECU over into the new one (assuming that the memory itself isn't what's bad on the current ECU, that it's more likely some driver circuit for the injectors or coils) then will the rest of my car not know the difference between the two?
3)  If so, can someone describe the procedure for doing so?  I am okay with either getting hardware necessary to read and re-flash components on a PCB, or (probably easier) de-soldering the memory chip (or chips?) from the existing ECU and moving them to the new one.  

Thanks in advance for any help and advice you might be able to provide, and for putting up with my noob-ness.  

-Jon

Thanks for the reply!  I am definitely going to try a couple more fixes before cracking into the ECU (have heard that a faulty motor mount can cause misfires).  IF it turns out to be the ECU, and IF the problem with my ECU relates to some internal component besides the memory, then will cloning in the manner you describe move ALL the necessary data over, or only pull the data in the main processor’s onboard memory?  I ask because if other data (like immobilizer data) is stored on a different chip elsewhere on the ECU, I wonder if I will be out of luck?  Or is that the jist of the whole “immo off” setting everyone’s talking about?

In other words, in the sequence...
1) read existing ecu data
2) modify data to disable immobilizer
3) write data into new ecu
...is 2 really necessary?

Thanks again, learning fast!

-Jon