Well... I could not finish the job today, gets dark at like 4:50 PM .. and this shiet is a PITA, the PCV system, Intake manifold is jammed up AF the back, old hoses etc.
Anyway all that is left is exhaust manfifold then It is free, but for now check out the valves from intake .. Honestly. these dont look that bad, they are all on the same level.

Cylinder 1 -

Cylinder 2 -

Cylinder 3 -

Need a new head anyway so it literally does not matter if the valves are good or nah, because the intake cam is fucked.

Also found this little guy wedged into the secondary fan

My bad , actually realised that the holes are the same patttern as on the standalone 1.8t coils, so that leaves the VC , but i guess i could just use my current one on the turbo head , lol, about water holes, what I mean afaik the turbo block or head has holes for the ko3 turbo, now i DONT need those holes , as this ebay t3t4 turbo is oil cooled only, about oil pan, I guess i would just weld a bung and done, and run the oil feed from pressure sending unit, that is the standart way, now that is when I get it turboed which wont be this year.
Now my main dilemma is , you guys are saying I should get a turbo block which are like 33% more expensive, but I am only gonna use the head from it HOPEFULLY, depending how the lower end is when i take off the head.
Now second IF I only replace head from turbo block, how would the cams and valves work with NA?
About pistons being forged in turbo, i found out OEM codes for NA pistons and wrote to MAHLE for differences between the 2 pistons apart from C:R.
Now the reason the reason I am thinking(and hopefully) to replace head only is because if I want to up the boost or go for big HP then obviously i would replace pistona/conrods, but for now 8psi from .50ar shouldnt be that much, still have to do correct math on it. Or if i dont wanna shell out 600 euros on forged aftermarket pistons , MAHLE turbo pistons i can buy for 85 usdish new /per.
 

EDIT: Everything is done except taking the head off... its a 058 block with polydrive bolts.. I thought they were supposed to be triplesquare 12 pt , but nope.. So now I have to buy some polydrive bits from the city.. Meh.

Another day gone.. So apparently there is not one shop where you can buy ribe/polydrive bits lol, so I ordered one from Bulgaria (lol) , but I'm gonna attempt to take them out with T50 Torx, I know some people said you CAN take them out but not put them back in , but I still dont feel it, how safe is it considered to remove them with Torx ?

I am tired of waiting so I can finally decide if I am getting a turbo block or not, the main issue is the price, if I dont need a turbo block ( because if I am going for high power, I will be replacing the bottom end anyway) then I wont get one, also I am still not sure how would the turbo cams perform in non turbo , and yeah the price : I can have an ADR or an ARG for 122 usd~ to 170 usd , so with timing belt + waterpump + gaskets would end up around 350 usd ish.

Now a turbo block is min 244 usd, or 318 usd for one with 170K km, and that would cost me around 450 usdish min, is it worth ?

One of n/a ADR engines I opened up had “double hex” (don’t know right name in english) head bolts instead of polydrive.
Be sure you get long enough polydrive tool, mine’s bit too short so I must remove front cam cap to reach the bolts.

Cheers for that I took them off , pics at bottom.

Yeah. It is supposed to be triple square yes, as old 058 should be but this engine is kinda like a hybrid 06A- DBW, polydrive bolts ,who knows what else, but I took them off with 8mm hex, but also yeah I ordered a polydrive tool. Check out pics at bottom.


So I took the head off today finally , pics attached. There is one valve definitly bent, you can also see it a lil bit on the piston, and cylinder 4 exhast valve juuuuust clipped it a bit, I feel like I'm quite lucky.

Another thing I am wondering is why are the cylinders so clean, except for the last one ? Any insight?

Anyway, judge it and tell me what's the play here bosses , Cheers


https://imgur.com/a/km9Adx6 - album link, multiple pics

Allright, will try but for that I would have to know the original mm , and find a manufacturer that list the thickness, I thought turbo comp was around 9,5:1 ish , but for NA its 10.3ish.

As for the engine , what is next ? As you can see the 1 intake valve is bent, scratched the piston I can barely feel it with my nails, 2 of cylinder 4 exhaust valves are just a dat chipped aswell as the piston ( cant feel with nails) , the intake cam lobe is a bit fucked , aswell as lifter1 ,2 for cylinder 3 is stuck right now because of screw, but they dont seem to be damage , so a light tap should free them .
Should I buy 1 intake valve ,headgasket and timing and water p. or new engine use the head, clean it up etc. + timing , hg, pump , or replace the whole engine If I get a new engine ?

I am trying to go for the lowest amount of money, but keep in mind if I only do that 1 valve, I will try to boost mildly it like the original plan was , and then later on If I want higher power then I'll 100% upgrade stuff but that is later on .


EDIT: I still dont get why is cylinder 4 so dirty and the rest are cleaner, and also to me it looks like there is a bigger gap on exhaust side of bore than on the rest, what I failed to mention probably is that the engine was boiled once accidentaly , but It was fine, cleaned up etc. but that is probably why that screw came loose and fucked the whole engine, what do you think ?

PS: Buy Gates powerGrip timing belt )), I still cant believe it tore the cam sprocket off and the timing belt didnt break with 72k KM on it.

You can also flip the head upside down with cams removed and pour some coolant in combustion chamber. It will leak past valves if they are not sealed tight.