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Author Topic: 2001 Audi A4 with 2.7 single turbo swap  (Read 182173 times)
s5fourdoor
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« Reply #225 on: April 11, 2013, 12:29:01 PM »

i love this project.  very much looking forward to a forged bottom end.... this car's gonna make retarded power.

btw...   what IM are you running?  is it the stock AHA/ATQ Plastic Intake mani?  also, what throttle body?

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marcellus
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« Reply #226 on: April 11, 2013, 02:47:52 PM »

Ah, you're on the third motor now.
I thought it was still the first one...

I just remember towards start of the thread I was looking at some logs and wondering "hmm, I wonder how long this engine will still be in one piece after that".

Agreed, I did all sorts of bad things to the first one.  Lean, too much boost, timing was whack.  The second one was a lot better on the tune, but I over did it chasing FATS times.  On that last run shown above I had finally got the fueling to follow damn near spot on, boost was doing what I told it to do, and I was slowly adding in the timing.  I believe this run was at about 27PSI.   

I thought for sure since there are S4's running 3.0 and less on stock bottom end that I still had room to go.  I didnt really take into account the differences between the S4 Third gear.  From what I calculated my car just wont be as fast as a S4 in third gear even if everything else was exactly the same.  I am still on a 5 speed from a 2.8.
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marcellus
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« Reply #227 on: April 11, 2013, 03:03:33 PM »

i love this project.  very much looking forward to a forged bottom end.... this car's gonna make retarded power.

btw...   what IM are you running?  is it the stock AHA/ATQ Plastic Intake mani?  also, what throttle body?



Well, the motor is going together with some stock 2.8 heads this time around.  I am trying to convince the shop to help with a modded intake mani to match the 2.8, or build a new one entirely.  I would like to get ahold of a HEMI-ish throttle body, but since I am self tuning/learning, I dont want to get into it right away.  I am still kind of sketchy as to which maps need to be altered and how.  I have been researching that part of the tune for quite a while now. 
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prj
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« Reply #228 on: April 11, 2013, 04:06:24 PM »

You shouldn't break stock s4 rods at 27 psi, so something else must have been at fault at some point.
It's on the limit, but deffo should not snap like that.
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marcellus
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« Reply #229 on: April 11, 2013, 05:00:47 PM »

I really think that depends on the setup.  Sure 27psi on a low flowing turbo might not break rods, but about 27pis from a turbo than can actually flow a ton of air?  What about a turbo that can spool relatively fast and flow a ton of air?  I mean, look at all the guys recently posting with stock bottom ends blowing the rods right out of the motor on less boost when they upgrade to something bigger than a ko4.  At what point have you seen hardware failures?  What in the logs should I have been looking at incase I have missed something? 

Maybe you are right, but what else is there to break rods and not show damage elsewhere?
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s5fourdoor
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« Reply #230 on: April 11, 2013, 05:09:34 PM »

Was the previous attached log the one from the engine failure?  If not, what were the exact conditions under which it failed.
I think you are right regarding the flow and potential of that turbo...
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prj
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« Reply #231 on: April 12, 2013, 05:45:25 AM »

I really think that depends on the setup.  Sure 27psi on a low flowing turbo might not break rods, but about 27pis from a turbo than can actually flow a ton of air?  What about a turbo that can spool relatively fast and flow a ton of air?  I mean, look at all the guys recently posting with stock bottom ends blowing the rods right out of the motor on less boost when they upgrade to something bigger than a ko4.  At what point have you seen hardware failures?  What in the logs should I have been looking at incase I have missed something? 

Maybe you are right, but what else is there to break rods and not show damage elsewhere?

This is one big myth about turbos and flow.
A pressure ratio is a pressure ratio, regardless of turbo.
The only thing with a bigger turbo and bigger hotside is, that there is less backpressure so your VE is somewhat improved and you can run more timing as well because of less backpressure as well as having lower IAT's at the same pressure ratio, but this is negated by w/m injection.

The reason your rods broke is knock, plain and simple. You don't go into high CF's when you're on rod limit, period. You should run 0 CF.
If you look at in-cylinder pressure during normal operation and knock, there's a huge spike during knocking combustion, and this spike is what bends and breaks rods.
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marcellus
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« Reply #232 on: April 26, 2013, 12:06:38 PM »

Quick update:








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pablo53
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« Reply #233 on: April 26, 2013, 02:56:09 PM »



Those outer main studs seem to stick out a lot further than other's I've seen.   Maybe it's just the angle or BEL block is different?         
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marcellus
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« Reply #234 on: April 29, 2013, 09:23:07 AM »

Nah, its all my fault.  I ordered the same length studs for when I thought I was going to run my APB block.  The BEL has different length studs.  Instead of trying to return them to 034, I just decided to run with them. 
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pablo53
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« Reply #235 on: April 29, 2013, 08:44:24 PM »

Ah, got it.   

Can't wait to see what this setup is capable of!
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marcellus
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« Reply #236 on: September 02, 2013, 11:39:40 AM »

Bottom end waiting for the heads:


« Last Edit: September 02, 2013, 11:46:09 AM by marcellus » Logged
marcellus
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« Reply #237 on: September 02, 2013, 11:40:27 AM »

Work and life got in the way of my fun.....Should be done this week upcoming.





Crew love:
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marcellus
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« Reply #238 on: September 02, 2013, 11:50:35 AM »

Almost...Almost





« Last Edit: September 02, 2013, 11:59:55 AM by marcellus » Logged
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