So this may be the dumb question time

We are currently finishing off a 1.8t AUQ BBT 300 build, with 3" maf, 550cc injectors etc, it went for dyno mapping, and there was a couple of interesting things that came to light.

Boost comes on a lot later than expected, but then stays at 1.2bar, but the car starts making less power, and fueling runs richer.

Having messed about with a few MS43's over the years, I dug out the laptop and pulled the map off to do a compare to the stock original map.  Spent most of the evening last night going over the forum, setting up me7logger etc, so in a good place as far as accessibility is concerned.

Question 1: Would someone mind just having a look at the map and seeing if something is awry with it?
Question 2: If I did decide to go conkers-deep into it, is it worth getting multimap and moving over the various maps to suit it? 

This is a bit of a project and is for personal learning more than anything else.

Dyno chart

Of course its spooling slow
Youre not using PID for boost control, just early 2000s subaru style ped vs wg
KFZWMN to -12 all cells but why?
ESKONF not touched
KVB not touched
Overboost protection disabled
iop axis with last same rows
kfzw stock axis 150% when you running up to 170%
TB fault protection disabled
flat FKKVS
and another tons of odd changes
and personally my favorite - KFLBTS and flattering table to 1.00 where values originally was >1.00 indicates that person who did this absolutely doesnt know how it works

looks like early etuners stuff lol

dont get the question about multimaps

The overboost protection being the LDRXN table by any chance? I saw the values where at 240

Okay, been digging into the map differences between the two.

Given there are a few fairly substantial changes over the stock engine.

Namely
1. 550cc injectors (So need to research the correct way they should be scaled)
2. 3" MAF housing (as above)
3. Different turbo (K03 hybrid).

So the stock map ran with the stock injectors and maf but with the K03 turbo, so beginning to think that should take the original file again, and do a step by step change, firstly injectors and MAF, and then come back around for the turbo piece.

Okay, so starting from scratch, spent the time look at the injector scaling first, here are my notes.

Injector Scaling

Need changing -

KRKTE - Conversion of the relative fuel mass rk into the effective injection time (Injector contstant for scaling)
TVUB - Injector voltage correction
KFWWL/KFFWLW - Map weighting warm-up factor
FKVVS - Correction factor fueling system
TVTSPEV - injection time offset based on estimated injector temperature - 4x1
FRLFSDP - injection time scaling factor based on predicted vacuum relative to outside pressure  - 11x1
TEMIN - The minimum amount of time the injector will remain open during a cycle in millaseconds.
KVB - Consumption Guage Constant

Changes

KRKTE - 0.05924430
TVUB - http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=320.0

I am still trying to work out where to get the TVUB from, I found the gif of the injectors


However, I see people quoting numbers such as
tvub - volts 8, 10, 12, 14, 16
         1.2627,.7586,.4889,.30,.1636

So still trying to understand the relationship

Just to verify, the set up for this car is:

3" Bosch MAF
BBT K300 Turbo
Bosch 550cc Injectors
FMIC and 2.5" Boost Pipes
Badger5 Supersize TIP (the silly big one)
Had a GFB DV+ Re-circ, recently swapped to Stock to see if it makes a difference - it does not.
Running V-Power Fuel
Fresh Oil (Quantum 5w40 Fully Synthetic)
Fresh Plugs (NGK Platinum - PFR6Q)
Standard FPR, but has uprated fuel pump.
SAI Delete
N249 Delete

A bit of background
The mapper who was working on the car said that boost was all over the place when he was attempting to use the N75.
We have since found that the N75 was tubed into the Intake Manifold (Post Throttle Body) and instead we've re-routed it to Pre-Throttle body, running directly off one of the boost pipes.
He said fuelling was A-OK and that it wasn't a problem.

It's really weird, it looks like the car can acheive the power I wanted, but it isn't able to sustain it, or see an increase up to 6.5k rpm.

When doing 3rd/4th gear pulls - the car maintains boost all the way up to 7k RPM. Going by the boost gauge in the car, it'll run at 1.3/1.4 bar and gradually slope off to 1.1 bar by around 7k rpm.

this may make it a little easier for you. imported all the maps your mapper changed so you can see exactly what he did. lamfa factor is off i pulled from damos. you can manually correct it tho