Nobody knows about this? Further research I've done has demonstrated it's definetly related to N75 duty cycles, KFLDTV map.

Does somebody have any insight on how to read the info in the log properly and tune accordingly?

Kind regards,

Hi doktor,

Yes, you are correct I performed a simple interpolation and also used a bit of common sense. I used the perfectionist point of view you mention, even helping myself with excel charts to do calculations and observe different values that may work, and it proved to be a good investment in time. My car runs awesome.

Last load lines in AJL map are 8,25 and 9,25 (from memory). When I converted to M3.8.3 ecu, I used 9,25 load line values for 9 and 10 load lines in M3.8.3. I used them in load 10 line too because as 9,25 is it's last line, it uses those values for anything from 9,25 and above, so I considered it safe to be done this way.

Also used 8,25 values for load 8 line as I considered a difference of 0,25 in load to be almost insignificant, and it did actually prove good results in my case.

Always double check the changes you make, do logs and use common sense. Better be safe than sorry.

I am happy to hear my work has been useful to you. Please let me know if you need further help.

Best regards.

I would be very, very interested, I am sure your work can be super useful. I am still working on these ecu's and recently have been working on the VR6 maf conversion (you can see it in the helpers and how to's subforum). I know it has it's limitations but still haven't found them myself, and the power figures you talk about are even above my expectations/needs. I have complemented this ecu with a wideband and boost sensor logged with arduino, and narrowband output to keep the ecu happy and functional.

I will also update my guide as there has been quite a bit of development since then. My car is running up to 167-169g/s on the stock turbo very steadily, with a good power delivery, and with reliability in mind. I would love to keep improving my work and I belive your contribution will be very helpful.

Thank you for turning up in this topic and offering to help.

Best regards.

Knowledge is power, I understand your point. PM me with a price so I know what you are considering. Maybe I won't go for it right now but surely the time will come in the following months.

I appreciate you offering to provide your work.

Best regards

See in the excel file guide, KFTLWS is a base map for prediction and used when maf is defective. Can't confirm how much is used in standard driving but i haven't touched them myself for stages 1 or 1+ kind of tunes.


Key point is to massage KFLDS, KFZW, KFLDTV and other maps like limiters and others in the list in the excel (I made a specific list of maps for stage 1), to acheive the goals you want. Most torque and midrage rpm driveability come from ignition maps.

Understand and forget from now on to not talk about boost with this ecu. It does have absolutely no notion of boost, only load, load request, and cycles n75 accordingly to obtain the needed air reading to reach the desired load. There is an "eureka" moment with this ecu when the load stuff makes sense in your brain haha.

Also there is a ton of people, not to say almost everybody I've known, that throws the keyboard to the wall to make a stage 1. I've seen tunes from professional shops with values as high as 11,70 on KFLDS that only made 1 bar of boost. I myself have acheived 1,1bar of boost with only 9,60 of load in KFLDS, so learn to optimise the values too. The study you made of converting from 150 to 180hp is a very good path.

Best regards

Marantz, thanks a lot for the discussion.

"overspeed" in this thread wrote that "KFTLWS is not "only used when MAF is defective", it´s the predective load value". Not sure, how it would interfere with KFLDS then...

Sure timing can make quite a difference, but looking at the maps of the AGU and AJL, the timing looks somewhat similar globally. There are areas with slightly more advance in AJL, but also in AGU. I do not see a substantial difference. Also I do not trust the axes data, sometimes I see a weird anomally in them (like as skipped value), so I am not keen for interpolating the timing maps - as these are "high risk".

I was comparing the maps for about an hour or two, but it is not a simple "bigger numbers in AJL" thing. It seems they used a somewhat different approach, some maps in certain areas are considerably lower in AJL, while others are higher, they might still work together to produce a similar result - like KFLF with KFTLWS. This is why I started to dig one level deeper, to understand which things are only cosmetic corrections (which might be the case of KFLF and KFTLWS so these might not need any alterations), and which are the real thing. Also, there are quite large differences in KFLDTV, both positive and negative, this might even look they are for different turbos (but they both should be k03), weird. As I understand it, this map might not need a lot of tuning for stage 1 as there is feedback n75 duty regulation anyway, but could produce a larger turbo lag due to lower-than-optimal initial n75 duty.


I know, thats why I wrote "desired boost, based on target fuel", but I understand thats a quite unsuitable formulation.

So, for a not quite optimal but safe first tune, altering only KFLDS (with LDSMXN and possibly other applicable limiting maps) should work okay? Timing and other maps are usually factory-calculated up to 10ms "load", which is still sufficient for a stage 1.

Thanks again.

Thanks a lot. Makes sense.

Actually, timing makes most of the power change in this case: yes 150 to 180hp is a noticeable change, but 210nm to 235 isn't. The change is basically in air flow, but in Stage 1 style of tunes, these cars can go easily to 290 to 300nm while still being safe. And this is done mostly with timing. Be sure these 1.8t's have room to work with. I you want to touch KFZW I recommend to search and look for tunes all over the internet (they are) which have been run, and develop your own ignition map (most changes are made on the higher load rows). Make small changes and log for ignition retardation, you'll see. Remember to make changes with common sense and in little increments, and then log, log and log to check your work.

Please everybody, if I am mistaken in something or think different, let us know. This is how I did it and got great results on the road, butt dyno, and logs, but I'm sure there is more experience out there than mine.

Best regards