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Author Topic: How to determine which ECU is in my A6  (Read 46478 times)
nyet
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« Reply #30 on: February 12, 2013, 10:56:16 PM »

dd: do you know under what circumstances disabling CLACINS is required?
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shane0569
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« Reply #31 on: February 12, 2013, 11:07:38 PM »

Ok, thanks.

Also, While I research on how to create my own tune, I've discovered a few tunes that appear that they may work with my car.

Wold you recommend any of these tunes to run in the meantime?

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shane0569
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« Reply #32 on: February 12, 2013, 11:10:30 PM »

And if I do mess up a tune, can I always use my original .bin to flash my ecu back to normal?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #33 on: February 12, 2013, 11:14:14 PM »

Clacins should be zero'd any time you run a hitachi maf tune on a car that originally had a bosch maf. It eliminates p1650.

Eliminates the need to recode the cluster, which doesn't work half the time (leaving you with no tach signal, and possibly locked out of channel 60).
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shane0569
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« Reply #34 on: February 12, 2013, 11:25:06 PM »

?
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nyet
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« Reply #35 on: February 12, 2013, 11:26:29 PM »

And if I do mess up a tune, can I always use my original .bin to flash my ecu back to normal?

Yes.
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ME7.1 tuning guide
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum
Trim heatmap tool

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
ddillenger
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« Reply #36 on: February 12, 2013, 11:30:48 PM »

And if I do mess up a tune, can I always use my original .bin to flash my ecu back to normal?

Under most circumstances (as in you completed the flash with bad checksums). However, if the flash fails, or is interrupted you will end up with an ecu that won't connect to anything. In that case you need a separate program to recover the ecu. Read up on bootmode flashing.
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shane0569
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« Reply #37 on: February 12, 2013, 11:38:10 PM »

Okay,
And do any of those .bin's I posted look as if they would work with my setup?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #38 on: February 12, 2013, 11:42:53 PM »

You need an M-box, bosch MAF (if you have a 6 speed, which your ecu would suggest you do).
L-box is for an automatic car.

My recommendation, find corradovw's stage 2 and flash that.
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shane0569
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« Reply #39 on: February 13, 2013, 08:07:50 AM »

Yes 6-Speed.
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shane0569
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« Reply #40 on: February 13, 2013, 08:09:58 AM »

So, this would flash for me and work without having to verify checksum?

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shane0569
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« Reply #41 on: February 13, 2013, 08:15:35 AM »

And, one more thing, would there be any benefit to changing over to a hitachi MAF, I mean, besides just making it work with more flash files?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #42 on: February 13, 2013, 08:20:27 AM »

Always us me7check to verify the checksums in a file are ok prior to flashing. Downloading/uploading things can corrupt them. If it reports them as OK, you're good to flash.

As for converting to a hitachi MAF, the only benefit is that they tend to be more reliable, but if your bosch unit is working well there is no need to convert until you need a new one. You can convert any tune to a bosch maf in 2 minutes once you do some more reading. It's really very simple.
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shane0569
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« Reply #43 on: February 13, 2013, 08:26:39 AM »

Ok sounds good, but that is one of the flashes you were speaking of (above) that should be good for me?
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prj
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« Reply #44 on: February 13, 2013, 12:13:13 PM »

Clacins should be zero'd any time you run a hitachi maf tune on a car that originally had a bosch maf. It eliminates p1650.

Eliminates the need to recode the cluster, which doesn't work half the time (leaving you with no tach signal, and possibly locked out of channel 60).

CLACINS does not need to be zeroed. It's just an error class.
Tell the ECU properly not to expect messages from the instrument cluster and there will be no fault code in the first place.
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