shane0569
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« Reply #15 on: May 23, 2013, 07:49:15 AM »
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Ok, thank you. So I just did another boost leak test, and it's coming up clean. I replaced a few vacuum lines, although none of them appeared to have any cracks in them. I will be investigating the DVs in the next few days. But, assuming that I find no issues with them, could there be an issue with the waste gate fully closing?
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shane0569
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« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2013, 01:32:10 PM »
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Also, I have new valve cover gaskets, and cam tensioner gaskets to put on (just been putting it off). The are leaking pretty bad. Can that have a negative result on boost being produced?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2013, 01:38:42 PM »
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No. If the plug wells fill with oil you'll get misfires, but that'll be very obvious. Do all necessary maintenance, and log the car.
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
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shane0569
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« Reply #18 on: May 23, 2013, 01:48:52 PM »
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Okay, how about N75 valve? Could that be going bad and causing the WGDC to seem so high, when it's not causing the wastegate to close enough?
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nyet
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« Reply #19 on: May 23, 2013, 01:51:30 PM »
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Disconnect the line from N75 to WG, and do a log. CAREFULLY! YOU MAY OVER BOOST.
If you want to be 100% safe, just try a spare N75.
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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shane0569
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« Reply #20 on: May 23, 2013, 01:55:43 PM »
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Okay...I'll swap one from my other 2.7
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nyet
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« Reply #21 on: May 23, 2013, 01:58:35 PM »
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Also, you can remove it, cap the long end, and blow into one of the short legs. You should NOT be able to blow any air through the disconnected N75  Ideally, you should know EXACTLY why this is the case before proceeding anyway  ETA: oops scratch that. you'll need a battery or VCDS output test to test that |
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« Last Edit: May 23, 2013, 02:00:45 PM by nyet »
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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shane0569
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« Reply #22 on: May 23, 2013, 02:02:32 PM »
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So. You shouldn't be able to blow any air through it when it's energized then?
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nyet
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« Reply #23 on: May 23, 2013, 02:07:28 PM »
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yea.
if you energize it with a little battery (like a 9v) DO NOT LEAVE IT ON for a long time. you'll burn it out.
just long enough to close the valve...
do not energize with a full size battery.
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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shane0569
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« Reply #24 on: May 23, 2013, 02:11:57 PM »
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Do you know the VCDS procedure to accomplish the same?
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nyet
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« Reply #25 on: May 23, 2013, 04:55:42 PM »
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output test in Engine...
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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shane0569
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« Reply #26 on: May 23, 2013, 06:23:55 PM »
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Great! A bad N75...well, at least I think I found the problem. I took it off and tested the waste-gate control lines for vacuum and they passed. Then I removed the solenoid, and blew through it, then blew through it while applying voltage...
The valve seems to be working fine, there was a click and the amount of air allowed to pass lessened a bit, but it still let a bit through.
These valves are bad if they let ANY air through right?
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nyet
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« Reply #27 on: May 23, 2013, 07:14:39 PM »
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Yep. Any leakage is bad.
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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userpike
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« Reply #28 on: May 23, 2013, 11:21:41 PM »
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Depends on the WG and boost levels.
stock k04, stock wg will need 80%+ WGDC to maintain > 20psi at redline
k04 knockoffs with tight wastegates will do 23-24psi with 75%
I hope I don't have this backwards but if the WGDC is at 75% the actual waste gate valve should be open roughly 3/4 of the way? I have a knockoff k04 with what seems to be a 10 - 12 lb+ spring tension on the WG. I haven't checked it with a gauge but it was way harder to open by hand than the k03 with a 5lb spring setting. I thought about lessoning the tension but the manufacture put that green colored marking compound on the threads to see if the tension was changed from their factory setting. I'm still breaking in the clutch but I get mad overboost with barely any throttle. I mean needle bouncing off the 25psi mark on the boost gauge and it only goes to 25psi...kinda overboost at 2700+rpm. I don't have any logs yet as I am breaking in the clutch and dialing some ev14 550's using 2.7bar on an ECS tuning adjustable FPR and Geneses fuel pump by looking at the ST & LT fuel trims. Just been looking at them live after like 20miles of driving with VCDSPro. |
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ddillenger
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« Reply #29 on: May 23, 2013, 11:36:50 PM »
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I hope I don't have this backwards but if the WGDC is at 75% the actual waste gate valve should be open roughly 3/4 of the way?
I have a knockoff k04 with what seems to be a 10 - 12 lb+ spring tension on the WG. I haven't checked it with a gauge but it was way harder to open by hand than the k03 with a 5lb spring setting. I thought about lessoning the tension but the manufacture put that green colored marking compound on the threads to see if the tension was changed from their factory setting. I'm still breaking in the clutch but I get mad overboost with barely any throttle. I mean needle bouncing off the 25psi mark on the boost gauge and it only goes to 25psi...kinda overboost at 2700+rpm. I don't have any logs yet as I am breaking in the clutch and dialing some ev14 550's using 2.7bar on an ECS tuning adjustable FPR and Geneses fuel pump by looking at the ST & LT fuel trims. Just been looking at them live after like 20miles of driving with VCDSPro.
Tighter wastegates=recalibrate the PID. |
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
Email/Google chat:
DDillenger84(at)gmail(dot)com
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