like 225 injectors, I also wonder if it has a 225 maf in a regular housing?

That car should have the long noozle, EV12 injectors bosch num. 0 280 155 897, But there not blue and most 225 cars have blue injectors stock.
I still want to know what part number maf was used?

OK people time to make some update

I did test runs with unplugged MAF.
the procedure was like this: I reset ecu and trims. Then I unplugged maf and did a test drive with vag-com.
LTFT gave me great values near 0%. But during this test ride my STFT was showing me 0% for all the time 
After test I checked errors and got 2. First about MAF - so it's ok cause it was unplugged and second with info that the car couldn't do Throttle body adaptation.
So I did a test again, but I changed the procedure a little.
I plugged MAF, then reset ecu and trims again THEN I did TB adaptation in block 060 and after that I unplugged maf for another test drive. Values were the same. Near 0% in LTFT and permanent 0% in STFT during whole drive.
After test I got only MAF error in ecu memory.
Then I plugged MAF, reset ecu and trims, did throttle body adaptation and did a test drive with plugged MAF. I got -18% LTFT after a few minutes of drive, and STFT was working and moving up and down the whole drive time.
What does it mean? I don't know. Maybe something, maybe nothing - you tell me

What makes you think that my ecu is not stock? hmm what is wrong with the fact that my stock 180hb car gave 179hp when I checked it on dyno after I bought it? I don't get it I thought it looks like it should 

Like I wrote before. I bought 2 factory new maf's for my car. I checked Maf number in AUDI ETKA part system with my VIN number. System shows that my car OEM MAF NUMBER is: 06A 906 461 D and this is the number that was on maf that I removed from my car. I bought a new bosh MAF with number 0 280 218 032 so this is the same part that should be in my car.
I bought it new and sealed and put in my car. I didn't open it to check sensor number but since it is a new product the sensor must be correct. To be 100% sure I will open maf tomorror and write you sensor number that is inside.

 
is it possible to check this option? I mean can I or someone from forum check my ecu file if it is stock or not?
Or maybe I can do some logs that will show if this isn't ecu for my stock 320 injectors ?

Like I said surge was there bacause of old and damaged OEM DV, after I replace dv surge was gone.
I don't have any other stock 180 hp TT ecu then mine on the car :/

not possible since I bought a factory new maf for my car

I have stock ajq injectors. In fact I even had all 4 in hands to check resistance.
Part number from my injectors:
06a 906 031s

I also tried to do o2 sensor tests from this link I got in this topic.
I could only start the test procedure from block 030.
and then I couldn't continue cause I don't have needed blocks.
blocks like 034 , 036, 037, 043 and so on are not working on my system :/

Tomorrow I will also check 'hockey puck' valve - I will simply swap it to other one from TT with good trims values.

And LAST BUT NOT LEAST
many or you are also looking on my dyno graph here to get some ideas of my problem cause.
Like I said this is an old graph from days when I bought the car. I just add it to show that car was stock duo to showing car's hp on graph.
If it can help to look into my car and my car's ecu I'm adding my current graph.
This is the same car, with the same ecu + a few of mods I mentioned before:
forge TIP, forge 007 dv with cold side relo mod, FMIC with garrett core and forge valves, blueflame Catback exhaust, amsoil air filter
now you are free to comment my graph as much as you like

ecu in .bin  file in attachment
my ecu number is 8L0 906 018 J
car: audi tt 180hp quattro, ajq engine, year 2000

thanks
so looks like not many options left 

what do you mena by this ? 

you'd be better off testing the system with an elbow to replace the hockey puck if you think you have to do it that way. In that case, If there is no change in the fuel trim then you know what's up. The way I explained to test for the hockey puck itself is way easier and quicker. If the hockey puck is still good then the fuel trim issue is elsewhere. The way it seems you explain it the crankcase would pressurize on boost.

I'm thinking he will find his hockey puck to be fine unless its the original. Mine was filthy when I checked it out before replacement. I also think that because he removed the line connecting the intake manifold to the PCV system, including a check valve in the process,(even though the port in the intake is plugged) might have something to do with the issue here. The hockey puck part was designed to work with a certain amount of vacuum/pressure during operation, with the connection removed between the intake and PCV maybe the pressure/vacuum difference from stock is enough to throw off the hockey puck's regulatory performance. But maybe not because the purpose of the checkvalve between the intake and PCV is to close when the intake is pressurized.

Injector and MAF part numbers would help.