|
nyet
|
 |
« Reply #105 on: September 21, 2016, 11:04:02 AM »
|
|
|
Now I'm facing the problem of that I can't read the 95040 chip anymore after attempting to ground pin 24...  Find the nearest good ground pin on the ECU itself. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
JMF
Newbie
Karma: +3/-0
 Offline
Posts: 13
|
|
« Reply #106 on: September 21, 2016, 12:32:45 PM »
|
|
|
Many thanks! I did figure out how to use the eepromtool and turn the immo off and correct the checksum at the same time. (Actually I don't know how the checksum could be wrong and I thinking this may have something to do with the immo having become activated on my own car with my own keys..). Now I'm facing the problem of that I can't read the 95040 chip anymore after attempting to ground pin 24... Why isn't there anywhere any info on where to ground pin 24?!
I used Ecupinout figure and made a wire from from blue pin 1 ground on the connector to the pin 24 (second pin from bottom left, opposite the circle on the chip). Turned ignition on (+ using an extra battery supply), waited 20 secs, took off the ground, tried to write to the chip with the latest tool (v.1.31): Except... it didn't doesn't work. Repeated the steps. Still no boot mode and no connection. Now I can't even read the freakin chip anymore. c:\me7_95040 --bootmode -w -p 1 95040off.bin On my Me7.1 ecu I had ground pins 1+2, constant power on pins 21+62, grounded pin 24 on chip for 2-3 seconds while powering pin 3. Worked good but not on my Me7.1.1 ecu. For it I had to switch power on both pins 3+21, constant power on pin 62. Hope this helps. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
simonitz
Newbie
Karma: +1/-0
Offline
Posts: 17
|
|
« Reply #107 on: September 21, 2016, 01:13:38 PM »
|
|
|
Thanks, I did look for a pinout to the ECU chip without success. So I connected the other end of the wire with a tool to the chassis.
Still nothing. I keep getting the same error messages in the cmd screen as the peeps before me on this thread:
starting boot mode.. fail. no response from ecu. error 0x07
Here is a fig of the setup with the ECU removed and wire connected, which I believe should be correct.
The things that worries me is that I haven't been able to read the ECU since I pulled the original 95040.bin out. How do you check if the ECU is still ok?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
simonitz
Newbie
Karma: +1/-0
Offline
Posts: 17
|
|
« Reply #108 on: September 21, 2016, 01:20:39 PM »
|
|
|
c:\me7_95040 --bootmode -w -p 1 95040off.bin
On my Me7.1 ecu I had ground pins 1+2, constant power on pins 21+62, grounded pin 24 on chip for 2-3 seconds while powering pin 3. Worked good but not on my Me7.1.1 ecu. For it I had to switch power on both pins 3+21, constant power on pin 62. Hope this helps.
Thanks. Good to know the ground pins. Did you use a separate power supply and a jig? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
nyet
|
|
« Reply #109 on: September 21, 2016, 01:28:08 PM »
|
|
|
If you are using me7.1 there is a simple open pad pair you can short. http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Boot_mode If you have a ohmmeter handy you can verify that one of those pads goes to pin24, the other to ground. |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 21, 2016, 01:30:31 PM by nyet »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
simonitz
Newbie
Karma: +1/-0
Offline
Posts: 17
|
|
« Reply #110 on: September 21, 2016, 01:45:57 PM »
|
|
|
If you are using me7.1 there is a simple open pad pair you can short. http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Boot_modeIf you have a ohmmeter handy you can verify that one of those pads goes to pin24, the other to ground. Thanks, yes it is indeed an ME7.1 and I've looked at the fig of the S4wiki. So if I understand correctly there are two options either a) to ground pin 24 the chip or b) connect (=short) the two pads that I've circled on the fig? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
simonitz
Newbie
Karma: +1/-0
Offline
Posts: 17
|
|
« Reply #111 on: September 21, 2016, 01:48:14 PM »
|
|
|
Forgot the fig.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
nyet
|
|
« Reply #112 on: September 21, 2016, 01:50:02 PM »
|
|
|
That latter one is for a different ECU.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
simonitz
Newbie
Karma: +1/-0
Offline
Posts: 17
|
|
« Reply #113 on: September 21, 2016, 01:55:42 PM »
|
|
|
That latter one is for a different ECU.
It's still the same ECU to which I've just added a red circle. That is, it's not the s4wiki for the ME7.1.1. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
JMF
Newbie
Karma: +3/-0
Offline
Posts: 13
|
|
« Reply #114 on: September 21, 2016, 02:24:08 PM »
|
|
|
Thanks. Good to know the ground pins. Did you use a separate power supply and a jig?
I used a bench harness made from the instructions at beginning of this post and use a car battery for power supply. I'm sure I'm as new to this as you, took a few tries to get things to work even just to open a command line. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
nyet
|
|
« Reply #115 on: September 21, 2016, 02:28:44 PM »
|
|
|
Oh, no it is ME7.1 but you circled the wrong set.
It is the square set to the right.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
nyet
|
|
« Reply #116 on: September 21, 2016, 02:31:20 PM »
|
|
|
...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
simonitz
Newbie
Karma: +1/-0
Offline
Posts: 17
|
|
« Reply #117 on: September 21, 2016, 02:49:07 PM »
|
|
|
...
Thanks! I need to try this as an alternative. Just to be 100% sure I've marked the two pads with a green line. F.y.i. For some reason my ME7.1 does not look identical to the other's I've seen, even if the cover says it one. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
simonitz
Newbie
Karma: +1/-0
Offline
Posts: 17
|
|
« Reply #118 on: September 22, 2016, 06:13:30 AM »
|
|
|
Well, trying to put a (temp) wire between the pads didn't solve it. The pads are about 1 mm in diameter and too small with my skills and eyes to get them to stick.
Next problem. How do you verify the ECU EEPROM is still OK?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
nyet
|
|
« Reply #119 on: September 22, 2016, 09:19:04 AM »
|
|
|
Well, trying to put a (temp) wire between the pads didn't solve it. The pads are about 1 mm in diameter and too small with my skills and eyes to get them to stick.
How would a temp wire work? You have to disconnect it a few seconds after you power up the ECU. Next problem. How do you verify the ECU EEPROM is still OK?
Bootmode  Or you could desolder the flash, program it (or a new one) in a chip programmer, and solder it back. But that is pretty damn silly; you shouldn't be doing ANYTHING without a known good way to safely bench flash your ECU in bootmode. Period. You don't even need a temp wire, just get something metal with a roundish/flatish tip to bridge the pads while powering up the ECU. If it is too flat (say, a flat head screwdriver tip), it is hard to keep the tip level and have a good contact to both pads. I find the tip of a cigarette lighter 12v plug works great. |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 22, 2016, 09:21:01 AM by nyet »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
