Searched and read the posts related to w/m injection that I could find. The one post was missing images that might have showed some valuable info. I'm getting the Snow Performance Stage 2 kit with variable injection, 2 of the 3gph and the safety system add on.

What I need to know is what's the best way to tune for w/m on K03's stock fueling. Also were should I put the nozzles? I have stock bi-pipes. Where should they go?

Now I know I don't have a wideband.
I have used w/m before I understand what you do to tune it. Adjust timing and afr.

What I don't know is how-to on a Audi.

One thread post suggestions was add timing til you see -6 while on pump gas only. That why when you run out you have some safety. Seems simple logic. This ok?

Now suggested was to adjust the map for timing based on continuous knock. Ok. What is a good starting point or what are others using?

Now on my last car we had adjusted the car leaner on meth. I forget what target afr was but my question is what is the new desired afr we shoot for on this engines while on meth?

-Right now I shoot for .85 / 12.5


I only post and ask as many different things were talking about on the threads I found and we're old. So I wanted to see if everyone agrees on going about it the same way or could share newer techniques.

Thanks!

So are you gonna let me know without more research where people mount widebands on a V6 motor with dual exhaust? I'm not sure and haven't looked. Can I squeeze that out of you. If any of the info I asked was posted elsewhere sorry. I looked for my answers 1st.

Also I asked some basic questions bro. For some reason I'm must be missing some threads. Also techniques change maybe, figured I'd ask. Is wrong to guess that over time and on a engine I'm not sure of tuning wise that I double check. I'm sure someone double checks other people's work. I feel like it's the movie Apollo 13 where like 7 people check the math and say OK on his calculations before he goes for solid burn of the landing module.... Yes I went to Space Camp and the F-1 Saturn 5 engines amaze me..... I got carried away, sorry DD.

I always put it on the driver as it gets fuel last, and logic would dictate if there were an issue with fuel delivery, you'd see it there first.

I wasn't putting down your thread. I answer every question here. I was just trying to explain to you why you weren't getting much interest.

From my expirience you need to make injection time a little shorter, for example via KFLF and ignition angle a little higher then log it. But first you must buy wideband O2.

Put WMI on my stage 2 1.8T k03s.   Tuned car to roughly -6CF and the fuelling where I wanted it, and then just ran the meth through triggering at my chosen PSI of boost.

Doesnt run rich or anything like that and CFs drop right down when running on meth.  I could probably lean the mixture out a touch more but would rather stay a touch richer than chase that extra bit lean power, especially when tuning with out a rolling road.

I would try and mount a throttle spacer with a 275cc injector with a checkvalve integrated injector holder(which snow-performance sells or else your vacuum will siphon the fluid and may cause hydrolock). It prevents potential issues down the road with your throttlebody and provides a better knock control (little less charge temp control then placing the injector a bit upstream of the throttle but you won't see much of a difference comparing the two). Although if you want to keep it simple and just have a dual small 60 - 100cc injectors with bungs welded to both bi pipes about a 12-24" from throttle plate you would net the most charge cooling with a lot less knock control.

The closer you get to the intake ports the more knock control your going to get. The further away the injector is placed will prove to net the most charge cooling effect. There is a balance to everything but I would take full advantage of knock control versus worrying about intake temps at the end of the day those runners will be ice cold  . I loved my snowperformance kit. I usually target .82 lambda and run aggressive KFZW all day with 0 timing retard and a ice cold manifold.

Use intake temp vrs timing/boost maps to limit power in case of failure. (I forget their acronym)

I was just worried about water cooling the air temp sensor as it advised by the w/m injection companies. My last car used a MAF pre-turbo and also took the air temp there, so I never could tell the ecu, hey cooler air. But I was able to adjust via my datalogs and afr with my AEM wideband to tune for the change.

Now I got a used kit, good deal. I have to do some research on the kit, gonna download the pdf and look it over, see on the forums if people have install/diy's so I can see how they set it up. IDK much about it it yet, its the Stage 2 kit, uses boost pressure to do progressive injection, the VC-100 controller, In-dash Indicators Lights, comes with Safe Injection Monitor and the Solenoid upgrade so I could do a spacer like setup mentioned above.

My last kit was a Stage 3 Devils Own DVC-30.

No, I wasn't worried about it failing, I was worried about false readings. From water hitting it and cooling the sensor down to a temp that's not really accurate.

I will be tuning for higher timing when the time comes. I have type 2 diabetes with high blood pressure and weight 350lbs, I will use enough time and energy installing the kit and will reserve the timing changes for later on.

Also the maps I see (KFZWOP & KFZWOP2) shoot for 27* when boost hits to 24*/25* degree up top, I see others saying that maps (KFZW & KFZW2) are just giving it a head start/where they should start to try and reach the values in KFZWOP/2, the car will try to hit the target timing in those maps and if they don't see knock they will continue to reach for the numbers in KFZWOP/2. Is this what I gather?

I already see timing reaching numbers that are higher then KFZW & 2 now that the weather has cooled down. Is it normal in the Auto/Tip cars to see a timing decrease between shifts even tho boost stays the same for the most part??