There is no part of a functioning BPV that needs to be "adjustable".

But I digress. Where are your logs?

I would certainly try a different DV if I was you, buy the standard Bosch DV its cheap and you will probably see a difference. I had the Forge Split R valve tried running it in Hybrid and Recirculating modes and caused nothing but problems. My boost was fluctuating all over the place! The Forge DV007 is a decent valve but I decided to buy the standard Bosch one and it fixed my problem 

The fact that you feel you should be adjusting it at all is a problem.

im working on my GTI 1.8T still and no matter what i do it will not go over 13 PSI no matter what i do to the mapping. i even went back to the original ECU that had revo stage 2 on it and it sits at 13psi and bleeds down to between 7 and 8. i bought the car as a test mule/experiment car, it had a bad K03 on which i replaced with an ebay K03 sport. the car had an ebay FMIC kit, ebay intake kit and forge splitter diverter valve and the atmospheric vent side is capped off. as i said in a previous post i had deleted the N249 in the all the emissions stuff of the engine and in the ECU. i smoke tested the whole intercooler system and vacuum system for leaks and put a new N75 on it still no love. i may go back to roots style trouble shooting and simply remove the vacuum from the wastegate and gently see if it will push over 13psi at all. i posted my last test tune i was working with along with the XDF and the the BIN from the ECU that came with the car. i dont have the right cable to use ME7logger so do just say post logs because its not going to happen.

actually the car does have a bad drivers front wheel speed sensor at the moment and i know when a wheel speed sensor is bad it shuts the traction control down. but what your saying is because i have a bad wheel speed sensor that would cause the whole problem? if thats the case thats the craziest thing i've ever seen or heard! i personally like the car without the ASR too, its really fun to drive. its so annoying when a car tries to get loose in the front and the trac kicks on to stop it.

not really worried about blowing it up, i got the car for something to experiment with on the cheap. i have 3 more engines sitting in reserve that i assembled from blow up cores that came out of other cars. i've been working on a sort of hybrid engine thats a 1.8 16V head on a late 1.8T bottom end too that i want to try. if that engine works it will be going on my sand rail with either ME7 or digifant 1. im leaning toward digifant 1 because its a much simpler fuel system to tune than ME7 by leaps and bounds. DF1 is as easy as add the MAP sensor you want, raise boost with an MBC to where you want it, and simply tune the timing and fuel tables to work with your setup. DF1 can be dumbed down so much that its really simple to setup and use. i set the DF1 ECU to run in open loop all the time so it follows the timing and fuel maps only and doesnt try to auto tune itself pretty much. simple and easy. i wish ME7 could be dumbed down like this,  most standalone fuel management systems arent this complicated because its completely unnecessary. the boost control in my VEMS ECU is a great example, you can use the primary PID loop or the secondary PWM settings which i use to keep it simple to control the N75. its a simple 12X12 table that is RPM on one axis and boost pressure on the other and the cell values are the N75's duty cycle pulse %. simple and effective.

why do you have front lambda, vvt, and misfire detection disabled?

Do you want a working car or a broken car?

If you don't post logs, I am going to lobotomize this thread, the same as you are talking about doing to your poor car.

Just because you have a lack of fundamental understanding of something doesn't mean that it is bad.

Read the manual. You are not a new member, you know the rules. You ask for help, you post logs. Laziness will not be tolerated here.