It's basically the same for most internal combustion engines running on petrol.  Aim for 12.4 AFR at peak torque, getting richer until the redline.  Aim for 11.8/11.6 at the red line.

It all depends on knock, boost and timing though.  I found the other day with barely any timing or boost I still had loads of knock at 12.4 AFR.  Brought it down to 12.2 and all gone.  Brought timing and boost back in, still no knock.  Got it at 11.6 AFR at the line and it seems good.

I'd get a book to read about tuning.  With these ECU's, you can tune with LAMFA or BTS or both.  I've used both, a little LAMFA to enrich with the pedal and then BTS takes over at 400* (so it's basically always active).  I prefer the resolution available with BTS to use that instead. 

As a footnote, always, always, always do fuelling first.  Ignore timing and boost until you have a fuelling curve you're happy with.  Look at others examples, it's a pretty standard table number wise.  Nothing special, just start at 12.4 and get richer. 

Thanks guys.

So what I understand is, modify LAMFA (read the whole community 1.8 tune, apparently LAMFA is good for beginners), until the curve for AFR (lamsbg_w while logging) is at 12.4 at peak torque (is this load? or is load boost? RPM? Is there a variable to log torque? Anyway, I’m pretty sure I can read up on this, so no worries),

And around 11.6 at the redline (redline starts at about 6500 on my car I think, but the tunes usually increase max rpm to 7k, so I'm assuming from 6500 to 7000).

And make sure there is no knock (I think this means knock voltage is 0, rkrn_w_0, rkrn_w_1, rkrn_w_2, rkrn_w_3)

Once that happens, you have fuelling "dialled in"?

Okay, thank you.

EDIT: That is with a completely stock car btw.

Sounds good, thanks!

Now who's being snarky!

IMO a "bit" of boost shouldn't really break anything, if he left KR alone...

Just some food for thought.. Knock induced timing retardation is a reactive process to try and prevent serious engine damage. The ignition timing retardation only occurs after knock has been initiated. Borderline knock over a period of time often cracks piston ring lands from fatigue. It can also hammer rod bearings and cause warped intake valves from overheating.

In regards to AFR calibration:

Being slightly rich is FAR better than being minutely lean in a boosted engine. ~12.4:1 AFRs at WOT are for NA engines, not forced induction engines. While some folks get away with this lean AFR for some time in a boosted engine, it often requires less timing to prevent detonation and at mid to higher RPM ranges retarded timing reduces power. In addition most O2 sensors can not report accurate AFRs except in steady state mode. In other words under acceleration the AFR reading is typically incorrect as the O2 sensor can not accurately respond fast enough compared to the rate of engine acceleration other than possibly in high gear - if at all. This is also a big issue with chassis dyno testing as well as accelerated engine dyno testing.

IME with WOT engine dyno calibration on a variety of engines a true 11.8:1 AFR in a boosted engine in the lower to mid range is the leanest you want to be for best power without detonation. In the upper RPM ranges most engines want to be in the ~11:2:1 AFR range. Some OE turbo engines use 10.9:1 AFR when in WOT from mid range upwards to allow the excess fuel to cool the chamber/valves to prevent detonation. If you have black smoke out the exhaust pipe of your boosted gasoline engine, the calibration is terribly wrong.

I hope this information is useful. I understand that other people's experience may be different.