NefMoto

I bought a spare 1981 VW T3 in 2010 that was supposed to be for parts to improve my other T3, but the body was in such better shape that I decided to invest in this one and sell the other.
Long story short in this picture, April 2010 completely stock and Februari 2011 just after new license approval with 115hp 2.0 8v gti engine, 4x diskbrakes, LPG system and poptop. That was one buisy year for me..

I have made improvements every now and then to have it suit my wishes, and now it was time to get a new engine. I bought a 1997 AEB 1.8T 20v with gearbox, which I want to use in the van. Since the engine is in the absolute rear, the gearbox had to be flipped around to have any use.
Engine when I picked it up:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_1049_zpsondpzwuf.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_1049_zpsondpzwuf.jpg.html)
Cutting an adaptor plate to fit the engine and gearbox:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_0863_zpsnotlg2ip.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_0863_zpsnotlg2ip.jpg.html)
Here is the engine coupled to the gearbox by use of my self cut 15mm adaptor plate:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_1714_zpsmivrdvcx.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_1714_zpsmivrdvcx.jpg.html)
I bought several parts for the exhaust to make a full stainless 3" turboback system with 2 silencers for a little less noise since I have a little daughter that sits right in front of the engine  ;D I am currently on a 2.25" catless steel system with just 1 silencer, which is not that loud inside the van, but a bit anti social to drive through urban areas when people are sleeping.
I heared the turbo takes away some of the engine noise as well, so I am mainly looking for performance in this 3" system.
Here are the parts, still need to buy the pipes and bends
Rear silencer
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_1329_zpslqyjqfj3.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_1329_zpslqyjqfj3.png.html)
Pre-silencer, 4ply flex pipe and bungs
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_2085_zpsywxsaeew.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_2085_zpsywxsaeew.jpg.html)
Turbo flange
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_1331_zpsdopswqko.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_1331_zpsdopswqko.png.html)
Working on a power steer delete at the moment, got the bracked hacked up and just need to find a proper pulley for the water pump and a belt.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2159_zpsnjhpeezo.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2159_zpsnjhpeezo.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_3937_zpsj7xqeepe.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_3937_zpsj7xqeepe.jpg.html)

So about the digital stuff, I found very little useful information about my type of ecu (8D0907557 0261203551 355966).
Even with maps that should be alike, I cannot make links between maps since the axis data will not make sense.
As for the map packs that should be suitable for this old type of ECU (tried 8D0907551G.kp, 8D0907558M.kp, 8D0907557P.ols that I found on this forum) , I still get no usefull descriptions or axis data.

I found the following map elaborations when I searched on the map names via google, however they are not all in my ecu:
0996E 16x16 (inj. time) >found this one, I presume the Y axis is RPM (15-170 with 40 offset displays as 600-6800rpm) but the X and Z axis do not make any sense if I look at it as beeing injection times so it should be something else (g/s or load on X? Don't have a clue tbh...)
09B88 16x16 - Ignition angle (map for normal conditions) > found this one
09CAC 16x16 (ignition angle at part throttle 23) > found this one
0A0C6 16x16 (ignition angle at part throttle 33) > found this one
0A1DA 8x8 - Ignition angle correction due to TCO or TIA > found this one
Then there are a few that are not in my potential map list:
0A22C 16x1 (ignition angle at WOT)
0AA67 8x1 (overboost)
0ACFB 9x16 - Target Load
0ADEB 9x19 - N75 precontrol
0AE7B 8x12 - N75 DC correction due to TIA (coeff)
0AF6B 4x16 - Load limitation due to altitude
0996E 16x16 - Injection correction to achive target Lambda (coeff)
0A22C 16x1 - Ignition angle correction at Full load (additive)
0A73B 8x12 - predicted Load due to TPS

I dont know how reliable the descriptions are since I just picked them off the internet.
My first goal would be to rewrite the standard AEB file to an AJL file since those engines and managements should be identical, this way I can maybe learn what changes Audi has made to the file to receive 180hp instead of 150. If I manage this, then I should feel confident enough to make adjustments according to my own needs. However, before I can do such I need to identify the maps and understand the data...
I know some advise to just buy another ecu, but that is money that I cant spend on other parts. I'd rather work with what I have unless there is absolutely no other way.
Hope you guys can think with me! I'll keep posting my latest mods to the engine and progress in the project  ;D

It is not possible to compare AEB dump to AJL dump directly as your is M3.8.3 while AJL should be ME7.

How are you planning to route exhaust with pre-silencer?

EDIT:

Regarding map addresses you posted:
 - @0996Eh - it is fuelling map (RPM/load->fueling factor - 128=1)
 - 3 16x16 ignition maps - I can not tell you which is used when, but there are also 2 4x7 maps which looks like idle/cut-off ignition advance (@09E9Bh & 09EC6h) and 12x16 map @09F02h which also looks like ignition advance related
 - other maps WinOls did not find for you - you have to be aware WinOls will not find all the maps in file, so you have to learn how to find them manually. In your dump twodimensional (3D) maps are written as Y axis identifier, Y axis element number = Y axis size, Y axis elements, X axis identifier, X axis element number, X axis elements, map contents. Onedimensional (2D) maps contains just one axis description followed by map content.

Ahw, I must be misinformed there then. I thought I saw an AJL with throttle cable? Searched it again but I seem to find the A6 C5 AJL 180hp with m3.82 ecu?
To your edit: thanks for the additional info, I have searched the hexdump for maps but came to 36 maps too so I assumed that winols had done a good job. As you may notice I do not yet master the ECU lingo  ::) but at least you understood what I ment.

My exhaust will go from the turbo straight through over the axle, then with flex part into a 180 degree bend, into the pre silencer, straight through to the back under the axle into a 90 degree bend into the rear silencer. From there it is basically optical, I will figure out how far apart the exit pieces will be by the looks of the rear (they come out both ways of the silencer in 2,5"). If it gets too crammed, I can route the exhaust over the gearbox to the other side, but I need to test fit the whole when I have the engine mounts ready anyway. I hope to find a workshop that will bend me the pieces in between the parts, but I think it will come down to welding it together...But thats fun too  8)

I would not use any sharp 180 degree parts in exhaust.

I did a "quick" search which gave me 213 maps in your file but I am quite sure there are more then that as I am not sure where map area starts and ends. I found something strange between ~ 0AB00h and 0B000h - I do not know if there is a code area between maps or what could be that part of file...

EDIT: I also not so sure what factors should be used for temperature and ignition advance conversion...

Okay, then I need to look again how to properly set up a file in WinOls  ;) I'll try later on, maybe this will give me at least some more reference. All bends I want to use will be constant radius, I have learned that these will not have negative effects on gasflow.  I will think very carefully how I make this fit so I will never have to make big adjustments again. Hence the stainless  ;D

I found a half defined file for the M3.2 ecu which is of any use, and ordered myself a Willem Eprom reader from Thailand. Should be here in about a week. In the mean time I have started investigating a ME7 map, a good friend of mine a has a '00 Audi TT that i'm allowed to experiment on  ;D it is easyer to get started on this map since there is so much info on this site concerning these ecu's. 
I found an interesting turbo that I would like to try in the future, the turbine housing of a K04-015 coupled to a RS4 K04-025 compressor housing with the 04-025 chra. Anyone seen something like this on a longitudinal 1.8 engine before?
* in fact I have written a few emails today with a turbo manufacturer from China, I am going to see if they can collect the parts for me seperate since they sell all the above types. Retail pricing would be in the range of 250-300€ so thats a nice start off. If they can cut me a good deal I might get a few down here and see if I can get uprated CHRA's from a reliable remanufacturer. I'm more drawn by the fun of building a turbo at 1/5 of the price a proper KKK frame hybrid costs me, if I would do this with genuine equipment costs would rise towards 2000€ and that is definitely not the kind of money I want to spend on a K04 turbo.

Just received my Willem, now I just need to have a serial cable to usb. Should be able to get this thing working this week  :o the ebay chip is already inserted in the upper plcc32 slot, that will be my first read ::)

No tuning progress, my eprom programmer did not work with the usb adapter. Tonight I tried to link it to my old laptop (parallel port in the back, win98 yo), and managed to read the bin 1st try. Great, plugged in my usb stick and... No usb drivers present on the laptop! Tried to install xp, but there was only 32mb memory where xp needs 64mb minimum. So now I have the bin but cant read it since there is no programmes on the old laptop haha. This weekend I will pick up a pci card  for my desktop that will solve all of my troubles ::)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_2374_zpsiy0itypx.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_2374_zpsiy0itypx.jpg.html)
The engine is now basically stripped, just need to take off the intake manifold and oil sump. I want to make sure all of the old oil is out and the oil pump is clean. The turbo is partially disassembeled so I can clean all of the old oil out of it. No signs of oil on the cold side, and shaft play is fine. That is a nice start  :)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2367_zpsq5ynkvsp.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2367_zpsq5ynkvsp.jpg.html)

Took me a while to get things working with the programmer, but I finally managed to pull the bin.
Any feedback on this? Should be written for a completely stock engine, untested.
I will use it to identify changed maps first, but the idea was to run this file untill I get more insight in how to adjust to my personal needs.
I have found adjustments in all my above mentioned maps, just slight increases in the bottom right at most occasions. There are also showing maps that I did not find yet, but I can tell from the hexdump that differs at some points. At least it is helpfull, and I dont see any wild increases in numbers yet exept in the load table.
Did I mention I ported my wastegate?  :P
(http://www.bus-forum.nl/phpBB/download/file.php?id=27764)
hehe that was fun
Added screenshot of target load comparison
So far I have found about 14 changed map area's (where one area seems to consist out of 3 repeating patterns but I cant get them to show as a readable map in 3d mode individually), I presume the last part of the hexdump is different because of the checksum correction? There is a major section that differs from the original file. I have compared the two by using winols linking the maps together.

are you sure this .orig file is original ? I tried to ID some maps for you but KFLF for example ,seems already tuned compared to other .oris

No, i'm not sure. This is one I pulled from a website, untill I get my ecu desoldered I cant be 100% sure about the file. In any case it seems to be a somewhat rare file/ecu platform since there is hardly any info to find on m3.2 ???
Havent looked into it for some time, I spent most of my time on other subjects.
Finished my rear brakes just a week ago, and built in my spare rebuilt 2.0 8v because my exhaust studs broke off. Just to keep the van on the road for my holiday, I hope to swap the turbo in mid August.
Thanks for taking the time to look into the file, have you compared the tuned one as well?
New seals, gaskets, bearings and a pretty little cam with 11.2mm lift
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2722_zpssuuf3ahx.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2722_zpssuuf3ahx.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2726_zpsyigqocgl.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2726_zpsyigqocgl.png.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2776_zps0kplb87q.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2776_zps0kplb87q.jpg.html)
Old block out and stripped
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2799_zpso5nncg6v.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2799_zpso5nncg6v.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2800_zpstiqk6g4w.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2800_zpstiqk6g4w.jpg.html)
New one back in
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2819_zpspqqsni4m.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2819_zpspqqsni4m.jpg.html)
and the new rear brake, 286x22mm vented/drilled with a 2011 VW T5 caliper
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_2568_zpsxqlcoyp3.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_2568_zpsxqlcoyp3.jpg.html)

Have added another original file, a bin that comes from this site. Will use this one for reference now.

On my vacation, my water pump failed. Unfortunately I do not have a temperature gauge in the dash so I noticed a bit too late. My 8v is properly overheated and the car has been brought back home by the insurance company while I received a replacement camper (not too shabby) to complete my vacation.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_3326_zpsvkyi9m0j.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_3326_zpsvkyi9m0j.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_3371_zpsuxsidhon.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_3371_zpsuxsidhon.jpg.html)
I am now back home and collecting parts to do the 20v turbo swap, last week I made a spacer for my oil filter stand so that it clears the gearbox adapterplate:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_3914_zpszugiyyn5.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_3914_zpszugiyyn5.jpg.html)
On friday I will machine my flywheel and wednesday I will begin stripping the engine from the bus.

cool stuff here

Wednesday I removed the 2.0 8v engine from the bay, works pretty fast when you know everything has to come out. Just removed all bolts from the supports and axles and just dropped the whole.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_3819_zpsasoigotl.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_3819_zpsasoigotl.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_3818_zpsdwkk0zpb.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_3818_zpsdwkk0zpb.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_3822_zpsuvqsm8ay.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_3822_zpsuvqsm8ay.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_3823_zpsbb5i0nkj.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_3823_zpsbb5i0nkj.jpg.html)
Also spent some time cleaning the sump of the 1.8t, and cleared the oil pump pickup of any sludge particles. It was 90% free of sludge so I guess it has had proper maintenance. The VW/Audi marked spark plugs where also still in. I replace them for the copper core NGK BKR7E sparkles.
On friday I machined the solid mass flywheel and I received my 2nd sidemount intercooler in the mail, a 2.7tt unit.

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_3847_zpsyhvedrqw.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_3847_zpsyhvedrqw.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_3816_zpskzbzapea.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_3816_zpskzbzapea.jpg.html)

I'm now waiting for parts, I ordered a new timing belt, hydro blocks for the engine support and 2 cv joints that will merge the Audi gearbox to the bus his standard axles. This week I will finish the cleanup in the bus, and next tuesday me and a friend will fabricate the engine supports.
In the meantime I hope to have the PLCC32 socket soldered in so I can try to start it when it is in next week.

Just desoldered my original chip, here is the file:

Some progress has been made:
Stainless pipes and bends for the exhaust in 3" and 2.5" and steel for the engine support bar
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_3979_zpsjhmebb3x.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_3979_zpsjhmebb3x.jpg.html)

Got most of it from the scrapyard and paid 60€ for the lot. I like these bends  :-*
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_3982_zps5f65xozx.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_3982_zps5f65xozx.jpg.html)

Put in a new timing belt with rolls, and traded a pack of cookies for this brand new K&N  ??? ;D
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4008_zpswhwq97b8.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4008_zpswhwq97b8.jpg.html)

New Sachs clutch set
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4047_zps6tni2ski.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4047_zps6tni2ski.jpg.html)

The reason why I am here (a friend of mine had it done for me, and it turns out a pro can do this in 2 minutes or so  ::) I didnt dare to put it in myself)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_3967_zpszinnnmjr.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_3967_zpszinnnmjr.jpg.html)

Welding the support bar with a friend (yesterday)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4052_zpslv464m3y.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4052_zpslv464m3y.jpg.html)

Thats me getting my arm burnt from UV radiation
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4073_zpsgjoxsrmx.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4073_zpsgjoxsrmx.jpg.html)

And it is on its own support! It even fits under the stock decklid, that was one condition that my wife had when I purchased this engine...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4060_zpsyp0jv8uc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4060_zpsyp0jv8uc.jpg.html)

When we lowered the bus down from the axle stands we encountered a slight problem...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4071_zpsfuzj1xtn.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4071_zpsfuzj1xtn.jpg.html)

So in the meantime my wife is convinced about the need for the engine to be slightly higher from the ground, and I am now allowed to raise the lid  ;) That will be done tomorrow. I hope to start this thing this week!

One question regarding to chipping: I dont use the charcoal valve, which is I believe the only emissions related feature on this early AEB engine. Havent seen a LDP or a plug that would lead to it, so I guess the engine doesnt have one. Can I leave the valve unplugged without CEL's on ME3.2 or do I need to write in the coding? The search provided me with the following maps that could be altered to fool readiness
BUT question #1 is if these maps even exist in my eprom, and #2 if so, how do I find these maps when I cant even find a defined file for my ECU  :-\
Thanks guys!

Here's a few addresses 

Thanks Marty! I will go and compare those adresses in my 2 files, and I will look for more adresses  :)
Raised the engine 10cm so clearance is now 15cm in total ::)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4123_zpsxnssn5gf.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4123_zpsxnssn5gf.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4252_zps7mijkfhz.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4252_zps7mijkfhz.png.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4373_zpsknpze3xe.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4373_zpsknpze3xe.jpg.html)

Gearbox mount
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4159_zpsjdthxdua.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4159_zpsjdthxdua.png.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4260_zpsop0bezrw.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4260_zpsop0bezrw.jpg.html)

Intercoolers will be on both sides in the air intake compartiment (behind the tail lights), waiting for silicone bends to hook everything up.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4134_zps6s33emu6.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4134_zps6s33emu6.jpg.html)

Wires  :o got the schematics but still...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4143_zpspsws4ck3.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4143_zpspsws4ck3.jpg.html)

Cool build :) I've recently fitted a 1.8t into a t4, modern power transforms the van

Cool, a 150, 180 or 225 hp engine? I already had the van keeping up in daily traffic by transplanting the 115hp 2.0 instead of the 70hp aircooled flat four, but I love the possibilities on these 1.8t engines!
Tomorrow I will try to link the ecu to my vagcom. If everything works, I should be able to start it for the first time! I am curious if the immobilizer is active, if it is I will open the ecu again and make use of the great knowledge (and files) on this site  :-* I am pretty sure the immobilizer will kill the engine, but I may be lucky  ;D

Tomorrow I pick up a new belt for the generator and waterpump, hope this one will fit properly...

I am concerned about my ecu: no matter how I connect the power, my throttle flap keeps moving irraticly, then stops for a couple of minutes, then starts flapping around again. Small tremors, not like before that it would go in to both ways and then center.
I am not 100% certain about the wiring, because when I pull on the wiring I have the feeling I can activate the throttle movements. However even with seperate power directly from the battery into the plugs from the wiring loom. I am looking into a new ecu, and found a cheap one on ebay:
4B0906018AA 0 261 206 449 (ME7.5?) from the APU engine (same bottom end as the AEB, so I guess same sensors?). So I will be able to flash it from now on...
Will I need to replace the entire engine loom to fit this ecu, or will I be able to just use the new type connectors and add the wiring for the map sensor? I have the 5 connector loom now, so that wont fit directly anyway.
Any thoughts on additional things to buy?
I came up with this:
ECU ME7.5
Map sensor
DBW Throttle body
Electronic throttle pedal

Hope anyone can help out on these questions!

might as well go wideband if your doing the swap

Me7.5 is wideband.

It's pretty well covered in the UK now; you'll need the lambda loom too.

I've got a wideband loom sitting in the garage; ECU connector is snipped off and so are some other wires, but if you need it, you can have it! :)

Thanks for the offer! I already ordered all of the above parts including a complete engine loom that matches the ecu. Its not a wideband setup though, ecu and loom belong to the APU engine. Its the easiest swap, since the coil packs and other hardware are the same on the APU as on my AEB. Not sure about the cam trigger, probably need to swap the 1 window AEB version for a 4 window type... total damage so far just about 100€ (I ordered all my parts from Germany and had them economy shipped to a friends adress overthere, cheap deals :o ) so I guess I will be able to refund myself by selling the DBC throttle and engine loom again  ;D
One advantage is that I dont need to modify my throttle cable lol

Got the intercoolers in their locations, need to source some more stainless pipes to connect all.
this is the right side of the engine compartiment
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4469_zpsa5qj1hwj.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4469_zpsa5qj1hwj.jpg.html)
seen from the bottom
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4468_zpsziqdyqlg.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4468_zpsziqdyqlg.jpg.html)
left side (seen through taillight)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4473_zpsccace6dh.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4473_zpsccace6dh.jpg.html)

Need to get started on the exhaust too...

I went for the 180bhp AUQ, running a fairly conservative 200bhp map atm while it waits for me to have time to play with it more. Its probably only making 170-180bhp because the downpipe is pretty horrible, the turbo elbow doesnt flow well at all, but I needed something to get it on the road and I'll replace it with a 3" system at some point soon.

Are you going to add scoops for the ICs?

Not to begin with, there is positive pressure under the engine lid with this stock inlets so I might as well see how this goes first. If it gets too inefficient, I will add fans to the IC's. I prefer to keep the outside of the van stockish. Inside it will be sealed around the IC so the air has to pass through offcourse  ;) I guess the turbo will be the restrictive part of my exhaust setup, running milk factory powered 3" pipework haha

Just got off the phone with the VW dealer in my town, he ordered the 4 window trigger wheel for me and will be delivered tomorrow... for less than 6€ lol haha
If anyone is in need for the same part: VW# 06B 905 234 A for the 4 window and VW# 078 905 234 F for the 1 window AEB version

Just got my LPG kit delivered, this should be adequate to suit the engine up to around 240hp at first:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4544_zpsvbiuhevv.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4544_zpsvbiuhevv.jpg.html)

vapourizer should hold max 360hp, but from what I've read that is somewhat questionable.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4536_zpsb7c1eqlq.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4536_zpsb7c1eqlq.jpg.html)

Injectors 1.3 ohm max 60hp per unit
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4535_zpsfuyva0sj.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4535_zpsfuyva0sj.jpg.html)

This gas ecu can output several additional signals, in theory it should be able to trigger a secondary map in the main ecu (like the US tuners do with stacked flashroms?) Not going in there first, but that would be a cool feature to run different timing maps on petrol and lpg ;D

Got my first deliveries today: oem map sensor, e-throttle, cam timing wheel and the ME7.5 ECU, tomorrow I expect the engine loom and the throttle body. I'm glad I dont need to solder on the board again ;)

Another thought on the map switching, would a non VVT engine with the ME7.5 control be able to trigger KFZW2 for a secondary timing map? This could be a nice custom feature for actually putting the high octace LPG to be more efficient  :) I found this in the funktionsrahmen:
SY_NWS = 0: keine NWS
              = 1: 2-Punkt-NWS
              = 2: stetige NWS
Die SW wird bedingt ubersetzt, d.h. es ist immer nur eine Variante im EPROM vorhanden. SY_NWS ist nicht im EPROM nicht applizierbar.
Which I interpret as: The software is written for only one type of NWS, you can not add this function in eprom?
Heres the AEB cam trigger wheel that was on it
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4595_zpsmnddsk5k.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4595_zpsmnddsk5k.jpg.html)
and this is current version which I will use with the APU setup
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4601_zpshyqbalvh.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4601_zpshyqbalvh.jpg.html)
Did not find any clear info about it but I just assume I need to have this one.
I fabricated the piping between intercoolers, and just need to make it in stainless now (test fitted with pvc pipe)
Then I started on the exhaust, downpipe is looking smooth  ;D I am not sure where to put the 02 bungs, I think just in front of the flex pipe is fine? I will run a single narrow band first, the 2nd bung is for the wideband (I dont have my own yet, will borrow one first). If the wideband is better off a bit further away I can put that bung behind the flex pipe for instance...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4600_zpslooqggfe.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4600_zpslooqggfe.jpg.html)
Passing under the gearbox to the first silencer
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4620_zpsnvqszw82.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4620_zpsnvqszw82.jpg.html)
Then it needs to come up a bit from here and 90' into into the rear silencer. From there will be a 2.5" exhaust tip to both sides
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4754_zps4snddyz0.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4754_zps4snddyz0.jpg.html)

Got my parts last sunday, no real progress because of the weather mostly (rain every day).
The ecu, didnt connect it yet because I need to make a bench setup first or just plug it in the car..
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4689_zpssjf8dms8.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4689_zpssjf8dms8.jpg.html)
And the other hardware:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4690_zpsmuuxe6m2.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4690_zpsmuuxe6m2.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4705_zps7cstvkqv.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4705_zps7cstvkqv.png.html)
Spent most of my monday checking wiring diagrams, and made a connection scheme so I can get started next week.
I'm working on a definition file, hope to finish it this week. Good practice in using winols for me  :)

Are you planing an ECU conversion, I mean an AEB engine with a ME7.5 ECU ??? ??? ???

Yes, that was the idea.. Didnt get any response from the old ECU over K-line nor did it want to start. Perhaps because of my soldering (s)kills ::)
I have finished my definition file for now, maybe one of you guys can take a look if it is any good. It is based on a definition file from 4B0906018P - 352750 ECU, I found it in the definition section. I did not alter any descriptions, just offsets in the hexdump by visual recognition (about 90% was in a different place, but most data was the same).
So most credits go to the writer of the P-definition SixSeven ;) I started with the secondairy lambda obd stuff, but I dont think the APU engine has one (my new wiring loom doesnt seem to have it either). In the file they are also at 0 and differ from the ATW file so I believe that makes sense.

When doing an engine conversion, I always start off getting it up and running with a standard map or known good ecu, so you are not chasing hardware & wiring issues in software, and vice versa.

Yes, that was my initial plan. I have had spark and fuel on my old ecu (fitted with std eprom), but after soldering the soic8 chip to remove the immo (was cutting spark after a couple of cranks) I lost all communication and the ecu does not boot. Doublechecked the wiring with external setup, nothing worked. Last option was to test it in another car, but I dont know anybody with the old style connectors. So I searched online for another ecu, found this APU type with all other stuff together for about the same price as a new old AEB ecu... Dont want to invest in that old type when I can get a flashable ecu for 30€ shipped  ;D now just hope this ecu works, will connect to vagcom before turning the key. I will start off with the standard APU 150hp tune offcourse.

018P is wonderful software to work with.

There was at least more written on it than on my old aeb file or the new apu file. Only topics I found where about the 512kb file coming off the ecu pretending to be 1024 lol ;D
I checked the AA, AR and P files in ME7checker but I am not sure if they are cross flashable. Maybe the AR, this one gave more or less the same results.
*But with the definitions for the AA ecu it is no problem to work on this one instead of flashing another file.

TijnCU here (http://www.finjector.com/) you can find old style connectors. If you found an ME7.5 + wiring harness per 30€ shipped, you have done an awesome deal. Anyway if you need I have a complete spreadsheet that I can share, about how to use an old style M38x/M592 wiring loom with a new ME7.5 ECU. It include sensors functionality matching.

That would be pretty useful if you could post it up

Yes that would be usefull documentation! I got the ecu shipped for 30€ total but the loom was a bit more. Got one from the same APU engine for 50€, the pedal, throttle body and map sensor where another 50 in total. So all together no bad deal considering I may sell my old stuff. I am curious to ser if the sensors give the correct signals, but I think it will be fine. Perhaps your info can clarify this a bit more 8)

I have been trying to post it without luck. I always recieve a "session expired" error when I try to upload it.

I have been looking in the document Eliotroyano has sent me, it is indeed a very nice document. I also tried to upload it but for me the same error. I try it once more as a rar doc.
The maf plug on my new harness is different from my AEB plug, and does not match the colours from the document which is written for M3.8.3. I'll go through my ElsaWin docs to figure it out, or look for another MAF.
Yesterday I spent some time on my welder, got most of my exhaust ready for TIGwelding. Hope to finish it next week.
Downpipe and pre-silencer:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4759_zpstqr01sgn.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4759_zpstqr01sgn.jpg.html)
Positioning rear silencer:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4761_zps1veqsgia.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4761_zps1veqsgia.jpg.html)
Connecting pipework between silencers:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4765_zps8ufz3j7i.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4765_zps8ufz3j7i.jpg.html)

ElsaWin schematics on 3 versions of ECU/MAF. Don't know if I can get away with my original MAFsensor since on the ME7.5 version there is no direct ground? I'm not sure if the sensor is compatible with the different setup.

4th image is from Elio's document, and when I look at that I think it is possible to just wire things up first and see what happens  ;D

TijnCU be careful you can not use an old HFM2 MAF with an ME7.5 ECU. That is the meaning of MAF info in my spreadsheet.
MAF info and tables in both software are totally different. ME7.5 uses newer HFM5 MAF.
My idea is to use existing wiring to match functionality for ME7.5 with newer HFM5 MAF, but no use old style HFM2 MAFs.

Ah okay, it is ment to be a guide for using existing wires on new ecu and sensors then right?
Well, because I didnt really trust on my old MAF working and because I have a 3" filter anyway, I ordered a 071906461B VR6 MAF today. I am not sure if I will rescale it right away, I might just put the sensor in my old housing first.  ;D

Got the exhaust finished for the final welding, I like it  :)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4796_zpsuambqm68.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4796_zpsuambqm68.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4804_zpsbooe1e9f.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4804_zpsbooe1e9f.jpg.html)

Hopefully its finished by wednesday. In the meantime I will make an adapter loom kit to get the electronics sorted  ???

Finished the exhaust today, my first time on the tig welder. Spent at least 4 hours non stop melting metal, but the result is pleasing enough. Need to sand the whole thing down now and put the tips on, and measure for the lambda bungs. Forgot to bring them with me  :-\
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4845_zps6bwwlby4.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4845_zps6bwwlby4.jpg.html)
as seen through the flange into the flex pipe:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_4837_zpsumxavuib.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_4837_zpsumxavuib.jpg.html)
The guy who owned the machine saved me a present:
A 95.5mm stroke forged crank  ;D came out of an 1z tdi block. Will put that in a special place for the follow up project after a couple of years probably :P
No start yet, got the schematics done and just need to link the plugs together. I made a small bench setup but could not connect to the ecu with my vagcommander china unit. It worked on the tacho unit though, so the cable must work sometimes. It wasnt stable on my old engine so I dont think its a problem with the ecu just yet. I expect a galetto cable this week in case of bad luck, my harness consists of pin 3,21,62 and 121 +, 43 k and 1,2 gnd. Should work right?
**Bought an 018AR ecu for spare, ecu comes from an APU engine too. How do I verify if they can be cross-flashed? Is testing in ME7checker  adequate or do I need visual inspection on the flashroms? Attached is the checker result of both ECU's, my new ecu has software 0001 though (got this 0006 one off the web)
***Did some more testing today, managed to connect to the ecu with my blue cable via nefmoto and galetto. Could not read because of the immo, and galetto seems to crash at 80% with notification unable to switch speed or something. I could not connect with my K+can commander. Then used my cables on my friends TT180 in car, managed to connect on 3 versions of software but k+can commander and Nefmoto both fail in reading the flash.
Then plugged my ecu in the car and started, it fired up right away and then died because of immo. So at least I know my APU ecu is good, just need to bootmode the immo off I guess (was hoping for the easy K+Can commander immo off...)

Finally I upload it to my cloud, to share it --> http://www.mediafire.com/view/gc9asb7xbc889rf/M383_to_ME7_ECU_Harness_Conversion.xls (http://www.mediafire.com/view/gc9asb7xbc889rf/M383_to_ME7_ECU_Harness_Conversion.xls)

Went to the junkyard today to pick up some plugs I needed. Then I made some of those plugs into a bench setup ;D
I worked with a battery charger first, but now I am just using a simple 0.7a 12v adaptor. I implemented an ignition switch and a bootmode cable (coiled up). Read my flash in 3 minutes with Nefmoto software  :)
Yesterday I removed the Immobilizer from the EEPROM with Argdub and Turboat's tools. Many thanks! The fact I was now able to read the flash is promising, before Nefmoto would say that my immo was on and could not read the flash.

Still waiting for my maf sensor to arrive, but I got all plugs to make a new wiring harness to my bus fusebox and the plugs and sensors for clutch and brake.

Does anybody know if I am in fact able to start the engine without the maf and the coolant temp sensor attached? I have been working on the engine this night and connected all cables. I have doubts about my relay setup so I will fix that next time. I had fuel pressure, so the ecu is powering the fuelpump relay. I have not yet seen spark.
Will drive by the dealer next time for the tempsensor, but it would be a mayor relief if somone could confirm the engine will not fire without it... Otherwise I have some more searching to do :-\

It'll run without those.

It may not run with faulty ones though.

Okay, thanks! Need to look into the wiring a bit more then... Frustrating though :-\

I placed my AA ecu, and I have spark on 4 plugs outside of the block, but when I fit them and crank I get no start but 4 wet plugs. My timing belt might be off 1 tooth, I pulled the valve cover today and found out the notch on the exhaust cam does not fully aligns with the cam sprocket marker. I may have set it to the wrong side when placing the new belt, since I could not get crankshaft marker and cam sprocket marker to align 100%. It did not interfere when I tested it 720 degrees by hand so I expect no damage.
Vagcom shows airbag fault code, and occasionally N249 and EPC warning light error. No MAF attached, engine temp sensor is attached now and is showing good values. Throttle is adapted and OK. It also moves a little on cranking, between 1 and 5 degrees I believe.
Vagcom shows timing at 4.5deg where specified 6-11? Is the engine picking up the cam offset in this measuring block or is it the normal value for a non-running engine?
I'm slowly getting there  ;D I will properly check the timing later this week. Any other thoughts?

Post a copy of your faults from vcds

Didnt copy them, was working on my other laptop. It was only the airbag code implausible signal and n249 open or short to ground. Did not get any codes for my missing MAF or 02 sensors...
Tested cranking without cam sensor, no result (got a code camshaft sensor open or short to ground which I erased after). My next steps will be:
-recheck timing belt. If it is fine after all:
-check ignition timing compared to camshaft (that it is not on the wrong stroke)
-check fuel rail injection while cranking (hope I dont explode)
-check fuel rail pressure
then if all is fine I guess my spark is not strong enough to ignite, but that would be strange on 4 coils with new plugs at the same time...Or the plugs heatrange are way out of spec  ::)

They will run with a faulty/missing cam sensor, but it usually takes a few goes to start them as the ECU doesnt know if its on the compression stroke or not.

Thanks for that info, I suspected that so I hoped to clear the possibility my cam pos sensor was wrong or misaligned by removing the plug from the sensor. It did not affect the starting attempt. I'm putting my money on the timingbelt, even though I dont know if the sparkplugs would get wet in this situation... If its not the case, there is another defect, but I cant imagine the coils are firing in the wrong order or something like that.
**something crossed my mind real quick: I'm assuming the wet spark plugs are wet with flammable gas. I will get a fresh tank of gas to feed the fuel pump, who knows my tank has filled with water over time  ;D I know that this gas what is inside the tank is at least 3 months old, maybe more. I always drove on LPG so maybe it has lost some of its flammability. I have never encountered a problem with starting on old gasoline though, but on the other hand I never had my car sit still outside for so long. Just ruling things out here. The plugs are certainly not wet from coolant, because the system is empty. If I have been attempting to start on some unburnable liquid, I will feel real stupid ;)
***Timing belt was off by a tooth, cam was delayed. Checked for fuel spray, injectors fire in the correct order. It does not really smell like petrol around the car, but I did not have any more time. Tomorrow I bring a fresh tank of gas and place my other cars battery in stead of jump starting it. Spark did not look super strong, more white-ish and sometimes even a tad yellow (on wide gapped spare sparkplug though)

http://youtu.be/AMThmzY7CVw

Replaced fuel. Replaced battery. Its alive! Lol ;D
Intake is not yet attached but you get the point.

Custom stainless inlet piping, got everything hooked up now and just need to weld in a map-adaptor.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5132_zps3u5zkfpi.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5132_zps3u5zkfpi.jpg.html)
I am making a custom full stainless  2.75" tip as well, need to wait for the silicone adaptors to finish it. Untill then I will run the standard tip.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5131_zpsfjzkwbk5.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5131_zpsfjzkwbk5.jpg.html)
The cooling system is hooked up, had to make a T-adapter to replicate the oem coolant schematics with the reservoir on the waterpump inlet. I topped it off with fluid yesterday night, and tomorrow I will bleed the system.
and got a FIS speedo, a friend bought this for €25,- but couldt get it to fit in his car ;D I'll find a way to fit it, they are cool.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5165_zps3ul3yxqc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5165_zps3ul3yxqc.jpg.html)

Had my first ride today! Haha just around the house to move the bus inside the shed, its super rainy these days. I finally made some custom intake thing that connects the s3 maf to the standard TIP. It did not even idle on my standard tune when I connected it, it died after a couple of seconds. So I flashed my very first "tune" to my spare ecu and plugged it in, and hooray! It starts, idles and does not misfire :-) Only problem I encountered was that I did not yet make an adaptor for the pressure sensor, but it was already plugged in. So I got some kind of rev limit on 3000 rpm and no boost. Unplugged the sensor and it was smooth again. Next week I will hopefully do the last tig welding on my pipework (02 bungs in the downpipe and the pressure sensor after the 2nd IC).
Now I need to connect the gear selector linkage with a change of direction and a change of rotation, made the first part today and hope to drive the bus back home tomorrow  :)

v1 is finished, anybody that can comment? I have a checksummed version ready to flash, will be using a stock 150hp ecu (with just the 225maf scaling(which idles super clean at 800rpm)) and this version for logging, same base file (018AA,512kb)
Changes:
MLHFM scaled for 225MAF (also in stock bin)
LDRXN raised to approx 18psi with taper
KFMIRL adjusted 4 blocks to allow max load LDRXN
KFMIOP adjusted 4 blocks to match KFMIRL
LAMFA adjusted for max Lambda=0.80
KFZW adapted to 180 mapping as base for logging
KFLDHBN adjusted to max boost with taper for  70degC iat (mostly decreased numbers from stock file strange enough  :o)
LDRXNZK adjusted to max load=160 and 180hp values
ME7 Launchcontrol VNMX/DNMAXH/ITNMXH/NMAX/NMAXOG/TMOTNMX/TNMXH

*I am still missing some definitions, so there are maps that I wanted to adress that are not in the xdf. This is just a map to get started and experiment with tuning. Feel free to point me to important maps that I did not define!
Wont be driving this yet because I need to sort my gearbox and weld in 02 and MAP sensor. But couldnt wait to start tuning :-)

Current hardware to take into account:
AEB block/head
Full 3" exhaust, no cat, high flow silencers
3" MAF with K&N open filter into stock TIP (this will be a stainless 80-70mm TIP soon)
Ported wastegate K03-005
Twin 2" smic
Adjustable FPR but at the moment at stock

****
Tested the ecu today nov 20 and it starts, idles and rev limits at 4400rpm, according to LC function and with slight rev bounce :-)
****
Adjusted KFMIOP with interpolate exel file in version 018AA_v1a

I drove the first 35 km from my workplace to my home, everything is still working  ::) had some throttle cut now and then, logically without the map sensor. I was probably in limp mode. Couldnt select 5th gear yet, but at 3100rpm in 4th @ 100km/h it was already better than my old short 4spd box.
I can make more progress with the bus on my driveway, since I dont need to drive to another town to get started. A friend wants to bring his TIG to my house after next week, so I dont need to drive the engine without map sensor.

Electronic throttle in place
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5195_zps8ynnhhqu.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5195_zps8ynnhhqu.jpg.html)
ready to go
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5378_zps0zesakku.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5378_zps0zesakku.jpg.html)
raised deck trial
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5386_zpsl3q95wok.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5386_zpsl3q95wok.jpg.html)
finally able to see the floor again
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5387_zps0locz3k1.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5387_zps0locz3k1.jpg.html)
old A4 cluster (non FIS) fitted and dash back in
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5390_zpsplgvfr7s.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5390_zpsplgvfr7s.jpg.html)

I'm still working on my gear linkage, building v2 now. Less moving parts and should give a more direct control of the correct gears in the standard audi H pattern.
While working all of my powertools started to fail, so I started working on my manifold. Here are the 4 nozzles inserted opposite of the petrol injector seats:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5453_zpsxtl7uu0s.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5453_zpsxtl7uu0s.jpg.html)
Here with the injectors and rail connected, all equal lengths between nozzles and injectors and paired lengths between 1-4 and 2-3 injectors and rail.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5460_zpsuyhc0smv.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5460_zpsuyhc0smv.jpg.html)
Almost invisible with the manifold mounted on the car  ;) These lpg injectors will outflow the petrol injectors by ~20% but probably the k03 is already out of breath before  ;D
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5462_zpsgohrneio.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5462_zpsgohrneio.jpg.html)

What lpg setup are you going for?

I have bought a KME Nevo pro ecu (OBD2 slave) with a KME Gold turbo reducer (2 gas exits up to 360hp). And the injectors are Hana blue low impedance up to 60hp/unit.
The ecu reads out fuel trims, airflow, throttle angle etc. and adjust lpg injection accordingly, but can also be set up manually ofcourse.
I have seen this setup on 225hp engines, so it should be more then sufficient untill I buy a bigger turbo  :)
Mailman just brought me a new 710P divertervalve. Old one was not opening, ripped diaphragm. Too bad, now I dont have any cool flutter noise anymore  ::) This new one looks more heavy duty too with brass guide inside.
Arrrrg I "looked" at the PCV system and before I knew it I had to order a new plastic pipe  :o piece of crap PCV on all of those engines....
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5483_zpsfuhdgbkh.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5483_zpsfuhdgbkh.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_5485_zpsugvszcvq.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_5485_zpsugvszcvq.jpg.html)

I ran into an issue with the MAF.. Its kind of strange: I get no reading in VAGCOM, but I do get the appropriate voltages and grounds at the sensor. I tested this by measuring the analog output of the Maf, which was about 1.4v on idle and increasing on throttle. I had contact with my supplier and he claims the sensor is not right for my application. I went on the bosch website and found out the original APU sensor is HFM5-4.7, while my current sensor (VR6) is HFM5-6.4. I never took into account there was possibly a different version on the same style MAF, but could it be that this causes my problem? I already ordered another sensor (4.7) so I'll find out this week. Could be a warning to other people who buy larger MAF housings, to not use the sensor unless it is the same type...
Car is running fine by the way, but no difference with maf plugged in or out and I get a code for reading too low.
Took it around the block yesterday, and I can now select all gears with ease! I'm very happy about that. I will post a video of the converting mechanism soon  ;D

After changing the MLHFM back to stock, and using a stock maf housing I have succesfully read out the maf. The values where way off though, car would not idle. So I put in the other sensor, and now it is sort of okay, but only when the engine is up to a certain temperature. On a complete stock file that is!
The seller has already shipped me a new sensor, which I expect to arrive this week (I ordered from Germany). I expected these issues on cheap maf sensors, but I just cant afford to buy a brand new OEM right now. If this 3rd sensor is bad too I will look for a scrap Bosch unit.
Besides that, the car was running great today, and I already like the promise of power on WG pressure (0.3bar straight). Thursday I will go to my friend to weld in the MAP adapter and O2 bungs, and expect to jet back home on the full stock 0.6 bar  ;)
Small clip of me pulling through 2nd and 3rd, its not fast but it is fun for this car. Sound is okay inside the cabin, the engine cover is only half covering the engine so it will be more silent later on.
http://youtu.be/Qd2T7ugInWk (http://youtu.be/Qd2T7ugInWk)
Oh and LPG IDC is much lower than petrol IDC, so that should work out nicely. Kind of opposite how I used to work on LPG engines  ;D

I have done about 200km on this engine now, and it is slowly coming together. I ran my flash just once because I lost my pedal control for some reason (plug on the pedal was not connecting properly I later found out) and I wanted to rule the ecu out. I need to adress the timing, up to 0.8 bar everything is fine but when boost goes more up I get all sorts of throttle cut/timing pull ::) also there was something in the engine bay whistling like a trumpet at full boost hehe. Thats not surprising, since half the hoses where not clamped. Might be the dv as well, it was slightly leaking (new unit) and I got sent a new working unit to replace it, but havent done that yet. What a difference between 0.6 bar and 1.2 bar, wow. Feels like a different engine!
I have finished the map adapter and lambda bungs thursday and made the engine bay a little neater today, working on my engine cover.
When the cover is finished I will start to work on a baseline log and then onto the tuning  :)

Awesome, i love this project!

I have a returning P1557 error, could it be (besides a possible boost leak) that my maf is reading too high? I get around 4g/s at idle but I have seen peaks above 160g/s on a WOT pull. That looks way too high to me, so I want to scale down the maf a bit. I read about the offset in the wiki, and I have done the following:
Select all 512 values > add 200 > Multiply by 0.95 > subtract 200. Is this the correct way to scale it, or should I have removed 200 and then scale down? This is not really stated clear in the wiki (whether to add or subtract the offset to start with), just to offset it.
** I have done the 2nd option now, this seems to be correct when comparing to the differences of a larger housing scaling with original**
My starting value is original 165.5 and last one 944.3, scaled  for 95% I get 167.2 to 907.1
If I do it the other way around I end up with 147.22 - 887.08 but that is not logical since my MLHFM for 3" maf is 158.7 - 1193.7

When I looked at the log of channel 115, the actual pressure was far far behind on requested pressure. It could have been that at that time I was already in limp mode, because I was only looking at block 2 maf reading before. The increase in maf flow is very smooth, so I guess the sensor is working properly, it might be that the housing is a bit tight or it is not calibrated correctly... Any thoughts?
 

I have done a few runs but the logger had issues, and at the one log that was succesfull, nefmoto logger crashed and did not save the file  :-[ I havent tried the me7l again, but before it wouldnt connect. I have found a few solutions on the forum that I still need to test, I thought it might be because of the vag k+can cable and switched to the nefmoto logger that did work. So hopefully today my first real log  ;)
There have been many changes in my mapping again, everytime I take the car for a drive I find new insights why stuff is happening like hard boost cut (turns out I mistuned KFLDHBN by limiting pressure ratio at low intake temps ::), causing boost deviation code and I guess boostcut as well) and I have slightly adjusted KFMLDMX in the lower rpm range to allow my logged max maf flow (causing maf-high code sometimes at 75% throttle situations). If I still have the boost deviation it is time to build my new TIP I guess (and change all WG lines in the process)  :P
I'm having a lot of fun with this, hope to get to more specific tuning soon. I havent asked for tuning advice yet because I want to see how far I can get without asking for help. My tuning so far is based on this forum and my personal feel for how the engine is (or should be) behaving, I'm sure there is still a lot wrong but it still runs and without knock (nor timing pull so there is much to win).
Happy holidays guys!

I have made a few runs tonight, and found out I cant read the Nefmoto logs in EcuXplot  :o
There is still a problem with my turbo not responding to requested load, and a absolute maximum pressure of 1900mbar over all runs. Am I missing something in the software or could it be hardware related? It looks like my wastegate is blown open at 1900mbar, because wgdc is 95% at that time. Anyone care to take a look at the logs via the Nefmoto software? Or tell me how to build a single csv from this xml document, I tried to convert but I get 7 seperate files for 1 xml. Also the definitions seem off by a few decimals and some (like temperature) dont relate to real values at all. I was hoping I could fix this in EcuXplot.
Heres an explanation of factors during the runs:
Log1 - wot 3rd gear on LPG
Log2 - wot 3rd gear on petrol (with faultcode positive boost deviation)
Log3 - wot 3rd gear on petrol - faultcodes erased
Log4 - wot 2nd gear on lpg (possibly with fault codes back in)
Log5 - easy driving through 2nd, 3rd and I think also 4th gear, this way the car feels the most powerfull (lpg)

I think about the following strategy: tune back ldrxn to aim for 1900mbar, if it holds I dont have a boost leak and the issue is either my wastegate or the ecu limiting. Also I see my maf values are still way too high, which is not helping. if i'm aiming for 1900mbar just above 150-160g/s seems more reasonable...
***
Done the above but still no good spool (following stock ldrxn ramp and still underboosting), checked my wg lines and they are not in good condition. I'll fix this first.

The bus is currently on the driveway again, I found out there was one leaking cv dust cover. The factory mounted clamp cut into the cover  :( probably because of the extra angle I have in the axles because of the flipped gearbox...
I have to rectify one fault I made in my tuning file, I forgot to adjust the KRKTE to match the AEB injectors. That is not such a big problem since my LPG computer would use the STFT and LTFT to adjust the LPG delivery (and those lpg injectors have more capacity than the APU injectors anyhow), but its just not wise to leave it unadjusted.
I am currently running an AJQ flash (018J - 180hp) with calculated KRKTE for testing, to see if my turbo will hold 0.8 bar and while I repair my n75 hoses. But first the axle... nice to find out in the weekend when the shops are already closed >:(

ECUxPlot does not support nefmoto logs, unfortunately. Try to get me7l working...

Just ordered a new blue kkl cable from the UK, my old one died a couple of weeks ago (after 3 years of use). The Vag commander K+Can clone and Galetto clone I have both refuse to connect, they do work with Nefmoto however...
So next week I should be able to take new logs  :)
I have done a few trials with other bins, and so far all of the 0906018 512kb series seem to have the 05.12bootrom version. I have succesfully flashed the 018J from Audi TT180, 018N from 210hp S3 and just now I flashed 018AE from TT225, and that is a full Damos file  ;D I adjusted MLHFM and KRKTE, checksum and flashed it to my spare ecu. Plugged it in the car and vroom... starts right away  ;) I am now reworking this file to work with my smaller turbo, very nice to have the extra range in max load without to rework the maps!

 There haven't been mayor changes so far, but I have succesfully driven the new 018AE ecu for about 300kms now. I have some hardware issues that I thought was to blame in my tuning, I am still not meeting requested boost. My friend with a MY2000 180hp TT was so kind to guineapig my tune (he has the same 512kb ecu/bootloader version) and in his car I even have seen overshoot (2400mbar max where 2200 req). I have done a little finetuning on his car and now it runs very smooth with acceptable timing corrections (3-5deg under max load). First he did not got any proper maf readings (it maxed at 140g/s) but after swapping his (bosch) maf with one of my spare china maf sensors it is now reading (a twitchy) 165g/s lol. So he will try to clean up his maf in alcohol and if it fails just order a new oem unit. I must say it is fun to see this effect of my own experimenting, the car had wheelspin from 3000rpm while going through 2nd gear on dry tarmac, and that was never before achieved  ;D my friend was already thinking about buying a quattro now, since the next phase is a gt2871 that I talked him into  ::)
But back to my own topic now:
I have yet to calibrate the LPG system correctly, it is running too rich at the moment. I have been researching the possibilities of switchable maps for my goal, and I have found some good topics here and elsewhere. I think it is most important I buy a wideband o2 first and then try to get the lpg fueling right, perhaps with an nb02 emulator out of the wideband controller. My friend will make me an egt sensor with small lcd. The steps to take in the LPG project that I think I need to do:
-Switch signal (generated by LPG ecu on first lpg injector opening) feed into secondairy o2
-customize ecu to switch maps when signal is activated
Maps to be adjusted: timing, target afr, knock based enrichment, egt based enrichment, ....?
-provide emulated lambda signal while driving on lpg to enable afr 15.5

I can calibrate the lpg injectors with the lpg ecu, so it should not be necessary to adjust krkte/tvub when they are properly scaled for my petrol injectors, and the switching is always 100% so there is no need for interpolating values like when tuning for e85/pumpgas mixtures. I have no VVT so in fact KFZW2 could be used for the LPG alone and no extra memory needs to be found for timing.
How should I start, do I need to disassemble the ecu to add commands? I am using a fully defined 512k flash so I can look for grey parts in the hex and write new maps there? I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with (dis)assembly but my TT friend does, if I can get some pointers where to start he can help me integrate this function  :)

**
I have made a small beginning in the tuning for lpg, I have tuned kfzw for lpg combustion (more timing in low rpm and less timing after 3000rpm) and I have set up KFZWWLNM to correct my tuned timing back to stock-ish petrol (not absolute but at least better than running too much advance) when the engine is under 40 deg C. This is because my lpg injection starts at 25 deg C reducer temperature. As long as I dont run out of LPG with a hot engine, I should be good for now  :)
I can tune my lpg ecu to correct for the requested AFR too, but this is not how I want it to be. I installed IDA pro and I will take the plunge in reverse engineering  ;D

Log from yesterday night, 2rd gear and 3rd gear WOT on petrol. I think I have a major flat spot in the 3600-4800 range, in the log this shows as nervous maf readings, and then it just flattens out at 180g/s  ???  In the 3rd gear log you can see maf reading freezing around 3500rpm as well. If I plot rpm vs time it doesnt seem very flat so maybe its just me. Timing seems super conservative. I am going to wait to adjust the LPG untill I have my wideband, I asked my wife for a LC-2 for my birthday  ;D (she was like: why would you want something like that  ???  ::) )
Please do take a look and let me know what you guys think  :) Also concerning my IDC, what is the strategy here? In the meantime I will take a look and try to find out why I am not meeting requested boost... (190 load but only 1900mbar pressure) >> found a loose clamp at the manifold, and it is still hissing from somewhere else too... Might be the pcv checkvalve. I also suspect my wastegate to have no preload, i think I can hear it rattle a bit on idle.

Another question: Since I use a 225hp flash, I have problems with secondairy air pump code. I tried to remove them, and it worked (at least the fault code part) but I dont have o2 adaption anymore... I look in all SLS maps, but there is not a project config for the sai in my damos. I am looking to remove the function all together, but for as far I have found I cant do this in WinOls? Think I found ESKONF @0x14EE4 in my 018AE bin. Now to find out what the bitpairs mean  ;D

****
I think I have it figured out: I'll elaborate so maybe someone else can understand too! (open http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning and scroll to the eskonf part or open FR and look in DEKON for sauger längseinbau und turbo)
My ESKONF is currently FF FF 00 C0 FF F8 33
0-FF = 11 11 11 11
1-FF = 11 11 11 11
2-00 = 00 00 00 00
3-C0 = 11 00 00 00
4-FF = 11 11 11 11
5-F8 = 11 11 10 00
6-33 = 00 11 00 11
I will now adjust it to match my setup:
3-C3 = 11 00 00 11 (n80 delete)
5-FB = 11 11 10 11 (SAI)
6-3F = 00 11 11 11 (SAI)
So final ESKONF will be FF FF 00 C3 FF FB 3F  :) fingers crossed

****
The above method worked perfectly, I even undid my DTC mods before flashing it on too doublecheck, but there are no DTC's present now and fuel trims are back :-)

I had a problem with IDC, but in fact it is logical that I run out of injector so soon with this small injectors. Maybe I will order a set of 440cc units later on this year or put in my friends 310cc's when he upgrades, and most of the time I run on LPG where I have some headroom still. Those injectors flow 60hp per unit @ 1.2 bar but max out on 5 bar. To get a better calibration of my lpg injector times I have adjusted KRKTE for 270cc, which is about my injector flow @ 5 bar. This should help a little concerning maxing out injector/keep injection time more sane. I dont really understand how commercial tunes can claim 200hp on the early aeb without supplying a different fuel pressure...
Currently at 288cc krkte, because I had initial fuel trims of -25% (engine already up to operating temp before flashing). After stft adaption jumped to 8.5% and it was idling just fine. I have adjusted the injector rate up by 7.5% so I should be about right after the next flash. If I get idle to follow requested I'll start logging part throttle first before pulling wide open  ;D ** Is it wise to set TVUB to 1 across the map to get an accurate KRKTE? This seems safer than setting KRKTE too low, but I dont know what is more efficient. Since I am not running at stock pressure nor using the designed injectors for my map I dont have a good set of starting values.
I found this overview on a website (http://injector-rehab.com/shop/lag.html)
VW Passat (98-99) Audi A4 (97-99)       
Flow CC/min / Flow LB/Hr / Ohm /10v / 11v / 12v / 13v / 14v / 15v
------220----/-----21lbs--/--12--/0.82/0.62 /0.46 /0.34 /0.24/ 0.19
or
------240----/-----23lbs--/--12--/1.05/0.84 /0.69 /0.60 /0.52/ 0.43 (this looks a lot more like the tvub I have now)
******
!!! More data, looks like I have to revise my KRKTE anyway  :o
Injector 0280150447 || EV 1 || operating pressure 400kPa || q-stat@400kPa 194 g/min||q-stat@300kPa 168 g/min || q-stat@300kPa 240cc/min || q-dyn @300 kPa, ti 2,5 ms (g/1000 Imp.) 5,63   Any algorithms how to calculate beyond these pressures and how do they affect OT? I calculate a fuel flow of 279,54cc/min from the heptan value @ 4 bar. wow... So it turns out I totally underscaled my krkte  ;D that will help out with my IDC for sure  ::)

The damos definition seems a bit strange btw. I think its wrong, i'll check with the bam damos. ** > factor was wrong and axis decription as well. changed 40 for 0,0704 and rpm for Volt.

** update 13-1
Car is running fine now. Injector times are back to normal and fuel trims are adjusted 4% down via TVUB. Its running close to 0% idle stft now, so lets see if the scaling was correct when long term fuel trims kick in :-) Power is better too, it must have been overfueling like crazy!  :o Hope the mileage will recover as well, I was @ 1litre per 7km  ;)
BTW it is @ 5 bar, calculated injector size 312cc/min and scaled krkte to match. (currently 0.1045, it was set as 0.1344  :'( )
Photo of my adjustable regulator with gauge, at last it comes to good use after spending a year in my garage  ::) (manifold vacuum unplugged at photo offcourse)

Found my boostleak, its the diverter valve that opens at 1 bar turbo outlet pressure. It had me really scratching my head though. I took it out of the inlet pipe and pressurized again, and then it held almost 2 bar a couple of times, then it started letting air pass again. I'll look into the valve and connected vacuum lines to see if there is any other cause. At least good to know I did not have a major leak :)
Im looking into disassembly too, but progress is slow. I am convinced map switching is the only good option for power on both lpg and petrol without taking risks to the engine

One way to see this in logs is to look for unexpected variance between ps_w and actual boost.

Yeah, not really unexpected because I know what I tuned it for. Pretty severe difference, and the ecu is not liking it  ::)
First I thought it might be the wastegate spring, but if the DV is bypassing all pressure above 1 bar I understand it will not build more boost...

That looks like the turbo is getting choked. I have seen that a lot before .... the intake hose is collapsing or the filter is too small.



Lee

Definitely a possibility.

Nah that was not the case... The DV was leaking from the diaphragm into the tip. I reversed it so the rip was now "leaking" into the charge pipe and voila: 2350mbar peak  ;D Now I just have to log again and see where my maf exceeds specified max limit, because I got an intermittent maf too high code. I suspect it to be around 4k, thats where it suddenly stopped pulling.
I ordered the electronical TFSI DV as discussed here (http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum /index.php?topic=6785.0title=) from a breaker including the adapter, so I'll put that one in as a replacement.
I must say that the engine is finally showing some real muscle, I am definitely riding the limit of my clutch in 5th gear! Maybe I will tone the spike down a bit, because I dont want to fry my new clutch...  ::) Thats the downside of pushing a heavy brick lol... And I just ordered an LC-2 wideband for my birthday (from my wife's account)  ;D

*I found out you werent able to see my pics (when I logged in on a different pc) so I am now replacing them with photobucket copies.

Hey guys, there has been some progress in the project again  ;D
I was having misfires under load, so I expected my coils to be failing due to wrong dwell times (aeb coils on me7.5)
In stead of adjusting the dwell, I sourced a set of TFSI coils and converted my loom.
halfway in:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/DAC1B604-6517-4819-BA7D-46180D899DAE_zpsotc8kfng.jpg)
finished valve cover part
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/C46B94AF-5C06-4E1C-BD86-27C3A1C83D66_zpsftffgljj.jpg)
and final result including deleted icm cables and evap
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/426B68F8-39EB-4836-A320-16C94FBF4C63_zpswsnxi5fu.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/30BBBAAC-121E-4B49-BE5D-BC6E5A28BAE7_zpszkriewhu.jpg)
Then, I took it for a test drive and.... Still misfires  ;D :-X
Well, since I asked my wife for a wideband for my birthday, I only had to wait for the date... On sunday I got my present and on monday it was in the car. I immediately saw I was running super rich on lpg, I'm talking 0.6 lambda on boost. So I toned it down a bit and gained a few psi of boost. I'm still working on it, running lambda 1.1 on cruise conditions and still getting around 0.75-0.8 at hard pulls so I need to cut it back a bit. I also found out I was running lambda 0.7 at WOT gasoline. I might adjust the fuel pressure (of both fuels) down a bit, since I dont need more fuel. At least its good to know I have some headroom. Now I need to find out if the rich running is due to wrong MAF values, wrong KRKTE or wrong fuel pressure  :-\ To be honest I suspect MAF, I logged 180g/s on a WOT 3rd gear pull the other day, and I dont think my turbo is capable of pushing that much air...

Added heatshield yesterday and worked on the engine cover
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/7AA6211B-5BCC-4937-B763-11B3DC378608_zpstmhio95y.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/8C2967C2-451D-4134-9C31-17B592F7F582_zpszvhg1tg6.jpg)

I'm working on my fueling at the moment, to save my valves. I finally got the LPG delivery down on boost, it's a small scale to balance but I managed to get into the 0.85-1 lambda range on boost. The car is running so much stronger now, its really strange to do it like this because I have always feared running lean because of many horror stories people told me. Turns out they dont know what they are talking about (when it comes to LPG)  ::)

I have trouble connecting my LC-2 on the serial connection, I'm reading out from the analog out. Are they sensitive to which serial usb adapter one uses? I cant connect at all, and on my old win98 laptop with direct serial port it doesnt work either. could be dodgy usb adapter and incompatibility of win98 too... I just ordered a new adapter, hope that fixes my connection issues. Local store did not have them  ::) old school equipment...
I'm looking into EGT probes, my friend wants to make me a small multi function lcd panel to show analog values and egt. The price of the sensor is not the problem, but I dont really want to take off my turbo and manifold to drill and tap it to fit the sensor. Post turbo does not make any sense to me so I'll just wait for motivation  ;)

Here is a small compilation of the bus so far, no WOT pulls or anything, I'll make a power video later when everything is how I want it to be ;D
http://youtu.be/eiTOqlnyD20 (http://youtu.be/eiTOqlnyD20)

Progress on the TIP.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/4620DCC5-B091-43E9-B016-0BC4AD2CDD21_zpsfvzmr7zi.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4620DCC5-B091-43E9-B016-0BC4AD2CDD21_zpsfvzmr7zi.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/3EDECDCA-3E3B-4E10-9A5E-8DE63839FCC5_zpsmsgkvoco.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3EDECDCA-3E3B-4E10-9A5E-8DE63839FCC5_zpsmsgkvoco.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/43D1CFB8-634C-4EB5-AA20-A1A4C9194988_zpsiobtekk3.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/43D1CFB8-634C-4EB5-AA20-A1A4C9194988_zpsiobtekk3.jpg.html)
Not finished yet and done with my mig machine (I dont own the tig that I used for the chargepipes and exhaust)

fitting my new intake:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/4128B936-0FDE-4772-8376-5B12CAF91507_zpsisbh5kzu.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4128B936-0FDE-4772-8376-5B12CAF91507_zpsisbh5kzu.jpg.html)

Its a bit tight with the E-DV, but it will do untill I have more spare time to correct my tip. There needs to come a connection for the n75 dump still, it is now dumping to atmosphere (pipe broke off some time ago).
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/63013C65-767C-40A8-A058-3BB9D7D65D8F_zpsuyvcxbfe.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/63013C65-767C-40A8-A058-3BB9D7D65D8F_zpsuyvcxbfe.jpg.html)

Video of an acceleration, I had another with NLS but I changed the settings and it didnt engage anymore  ::) (so I shifted at 6600rpm) I'll redo that one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHQ2ZN2hyMo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHQ2ZN2hyMo)

And a log with the new setup, still no direct wideband reading in the log unfortunately. rs232 Adapter is in the mail. I have massive hesitation during spooltime, and I can relate this to PS_w going all over the place. I'm now searching the FR for a cause, besides I still have bad maf readings. I'm now on a 80mm maf, I have 2 sensors that read totally different. The original 80mm sensor reads around 0g/s at idle so thats not very good, the other sensor (from the 70mm) reads 4-5g/s at idle. Maf is scaled to 225 original values, KFKHFM is 1.
** I have confirmed my bin does not have cam switchover functions or EGR in BGSRM module. A couple of things that I can think of is:
-My K03 turbo messing up PRGNM / KFPRG(Internal exhaust gas partial pressure dependent on engine speed and cam state)
-My AEB manifold messing up the KISRM calculation
(-when driving on LPG: the injected gas also influencing KISRM but my logs are mostly on petrol so shouldnt matter)
my intercooler setup is fairly equal to the s3, so I dont think that is the problem.
I adjusted the MLHFM a bit and now the maf reading is better, I will log again with maf@throttle plate and maf voltage, and some other variables that link to ps and rl.

Last week on tueseday I went to the VW dealer in my town, to order the TFSI coil adapters. I had a conversation with the head mechanic, and I showed them the launch control function. They were super stoked about it, and I could leave the bus for its annual inspection without an appointment (mine needs to go every 2 years because it is older than 30years, it was due by the 3rd of March  :P). I liked that because I had a trip coming up for the weekend, and then I would know if it was safe to go all out on the German autobahn  ;D Unfortunately there where some repair points, so I picked it up at the end of the day and took her home for repair. One nasty thing was one of my rear tires that had bumps on the sidewall at the inside, glad they found that so I could put on a different set of wheels for the trip. I dont want to think about what could have happened with that tire at high speed with lots of cargo.
I repaired mostly everything on wednesday and picked up the adapters in the morning too:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/4F8073C5-18AF-49C6-9103-4563902353CC_zpse9gwxsrh.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4F8073C5-18AF-49C6-9103-4563902353CC_zpse9gwxsrh.jpg.html)
and fitted them to the engine:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/4783E92B-E60A-4867-8E80-E9AC7160B83A_zpsowxjzpmc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4783E92B-E60A-4867-8E80-E9AC7160B83A_zpsowxjzpmc.jpg.html)

My wife and I left to Feldberg Germany on thursday, I picked up 3 friends and so we had the bus fully packed with 5 persons and snowboarding equipment. Good test for the engine, it was a 750km drive. I drove through the night and we had no trouble with the engine at all, just a bit too rainy for speeds above 140kmh (lots of aquaplanning). I noticed that high load in the mountains (1500m) was not really smooth, I guess that was my max pressure ratio limiter kicking in. But its hard work for a little 1.8t pushing a 2000+kg bus up against a steep hill so overall I was happy with the tune.
Did a couple of powerslides as well because sometimes I had to floor it to maintain speed and when the rpms would go over 2000 the power came in quite aggressive for slushy snow roads :P
On the way back home sunday we had much better weather so I could keep the speed up a bit more, mostly between 140 and 170km/h.
The police found it "interesting" when I passed them with 40km/h speed difference so they pulled me over. ::)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/EA9CA553-37FC-4E1A-8D9D-491B0DC20B65_zpss0r29g9f.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/EA9CA553-37FC-4E1A-8D9D-491B0DC20B65_zpss0r29g9f.jpg.html)
After a quick check of the car and cargo they decided to let me go so I could resume the trip back home  ;)
I havent tested the maximum speed because we were so heavy, but there was definitely more power available. I think I might be able to get it up to 200km/h.
Fuel consumption was very very reasonable, average 6km/liter LPG (lpg is €0,60 here, regular petrol €1.50 so cost wise I would have to run 15km/liter on petrol  :o I cant get that consumption even in a very expensive modern car at those speeds, let alone in a bus!)
Tomorrow morning the bus goes back to VW to get the inspection finished and then its free of inspections untill the 3rd of March 2017 again  8)

Hi guys, a small update for who ever is reading:
I have been working on a gearbox breather solution, and trying some new fittings around the case. Hasnt been working out, in result I just lost some more oil on the highway (lucky me it sticks to the rear of the van  :-X ) I will try to make a proper catch can setup now, with breather from the top and return in the bottom. For those who dont understand the issue: The box is fitted upside down and the original drain is now the breather point, which is essentially right above the differential (sprays oil out of the breather). I tried to relocate the breather to the filler bung, but when you drive through long bends the oil fills the breather hose and pressurizes, in result blowing out waves of oil.
To stay dry, driving under 120km/h was the solution. I was fine with that for now.
Then I spent some time reworking my vacuum lines, replaced everything with reinforced tubes and bolted everything down nice and tight. I also removed all T's and there is only 1 checkvalve left, for the brakebooster.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/0D9F99E9-CA39-44BB-9DCF-333704031BA9_zpsnditbmiv.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0D9F99E9-CA39-44BB-9DCF-333704031BA9_zpsnditbmiv.jpg.html)
Left small line goes to the lpg MAPsensor, right small line to fuel pressure regulator, big front line directly to lpg reducer and the big one on the right to the brakebooster.

Yesterday night I took the bus to work, and noticed my LPG is now superb! No more hesitations or fluctuations in delivery pressure at all!
I did a 2nd gear log all the way to the revlimiter, car feels really strong. Maf is a bit underscaled, but no CFs at all!
I need to get the maf@throttle plate up a bit, ps_w looks way better now though. Lambda is not logged in me7l, but I see around 0.95 to 0.85 throughout the pull.
Unfortunately when I did a second run on petrol for comparison, my water pump impellor failed and I stranded. Got home after letting the car cool all the way down and then driving it for a couple of minutes untill it was 95deg. and then cooling it again, so it took me quite long to get home  ;) ordered a new water pump this evening and hope to fit it before wednesday.
Please take a look at my log file and point me to other improvements other then the timing  :-*

I bought a genuine K04-020 second hand, I will take it apart for a good inspection when it gets here, and then see if I can do some modifications to fit it to the bus. I am looking for a bit more power up top but I'm scared to kill the driveability with a bigger turbo. So I decided the k04-02x series would suit best. I didnt want a k04-015 and I dont mind to modify parts to fit it. There's plenty of room so maybe I'll just drop it a bit lower with an adapterplate.
We'll see... If I change my mind its easy to sell it again because these things sell easy  ;D

Good idea with the K04-020. K04-015 is pointless.

Glad to find out you learned how to tune LPG correctly.
With LPG 0.6 lambda is MUCH more dangerous than 1.0.

In fact, it is useless to go past 0.9 with LPG, you will only increase EGT and not make any more power.

I read some of your posts that got me on the right track, thanks PRJ! I also bought an EGT sensor that I will mount pre-turbo to get it performing within safe margins. I just need a good mafsensor now, because I cant get my fueling very stable due to swinging maf values. But its around .9 lambda most of the time when on boost, and at 1 for cruising. Maybe just a tad richer than I would like, but thats because my factory o2 sensor is slow, it gives lean readings for too long when it is already richening on the wideband and causes positive fuel trims. Need to deep out my pockets again, so it seems...  ::)

If you can put some space between that code filter and the maf somehow (not a bend either) your MAF would likely improve.

Hmm yeah I've also been thinking about moving it outside of the bay to get some colder air into it, might just add a straight pipe and hack a hole in the firewall. There's not really any space left now, unless I have the pipe run inside the filter. Would that work or just make the turbulence worse?
I read in a Tuning book that the pipe in front of the maf should be at least double the size of the diameter, so in my case about 15cm long. It does not state that the airflow should come from a specific direction, so inside-filter pipe might do the trick.

My new old turbo has arrived thursday, at first glance it seemed just fine, a little bit of play but nothing shocking. I took it apart for further inspection, and found some damages. Cracks in the wastegate area, but worse is a cracked area in the turbine rotating zone, which had made contact with the turbine wheel. Not visible from the outside, but doesnt look fancy. So I think I will try to weld and grind/port the turbine housing, the wheel I am not sure of. Maybe smooth the edges and balance, maybe put in a new wheel and balance. Compressor wheel and housing are perfect.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_20150416_161710_zpsixnhnz1l.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_20150416_161710_zpsixnhnz1l.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_20150416_162044_zpsehbucxpc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_20150416_162044_zpsehbucxpc.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_20150416_164054_zpsv2shd9xu.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_20150416_164054_zpsv2shd9xu.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150416-WA0015_zpsi8mb2eo8.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150416-WA0015_zpsi8mb2eo8.jpeg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150416-WA0017_zps3dvud5fd.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150416-WA0017_zps3dvud5fd.jpeg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150416-WA0013_zpsgxjx8gle.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150416-WA0013_zpsgxjx8gle.jpeg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150417-WA0001_zpskm3fgfcj.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150417-WA0001_zpskm3fgfcj.jpeg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150417-WA0003_zpssaeextrg.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150417-WA0003_zpssaeextrg.jpeg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150417-WA0005_zps4ya5whdq.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150417-WA0005_zps4ya5whdq.jpeg.html)

I've been thinking about my options with the turbo, there is something I can't get clear. Maybe one on here knows, average internet search result is either worthless or at the best inconclusive... * i found a bw catalog with sizes, see pics.*
A k04-015 looks very easy to machine to accept the 020 wheel, but I only want to do that if the A/R is the same. *BW CATALOG SHOWS DIFFERENT A/R*
If its not, I will stick to the 02x housing and fabricate a manifold adapter or a simple tubular manifold.
*the k03-073 seems to have the same turbine a/r as the k04-020. This could be a cool discovery, utilizing a k03 housing to match the k04-02x bolt on :o
Is it true? Has anybody built a machined k03-073 turbine with k04-02x chra and compressor housing?
K03-073 a/r 5cm2
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Screenshot_2015-04-19-21-51-58_zpsidd7pltt.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Screenshot_2015-04-19-21-51-58_zpsidd7pltt.png.html)

K04-023 a/r 5cm2
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Screenshot_2015-04-19-21-52-29_zps0zhmcodq.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Screenshot_2015-04-19-21-52-29_zps0zhmcodq.png.html)

K04-015 a/r 4cm2
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Screenshot_2015-04-19-21-52-23_zpscribhdoa.png) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Screenshot_2015-04-19-21-52-23_zpscribhdoa.png.html)

Does this help?

http://budeluke.co.uk/Box/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=74

Yes, I have decided to go for a milder upgrade and build this 225 unit in a new k03 turbinehousing. I read about extra clearance and clipped turbines, I will see about my strategy when we start machining the housing. I will try to enhance the a/r as well, by machine and hand porting the housing. I dont want to blow all my money on this upgrade so I just buy a china turbine housing (45$), and have someone check my turbine wheel, with possible modifications. If its unuseable I might get a rs6 spec turbinewheel in there. Then new seals/bearing kit and balance and in she goes :)

Put on my new wheels, I absolutely love them!
 (http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150424-WA0036_zps5qkn3i9l.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150424-WA0036_zps5qkn3i9l.jpeg.html)

Rear 18x10
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150424-WA0027_zpsqikzetko.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150424-WA0027_zpsqikzetko.jpeg.html)

Front 18x8.5, will go 5mm more inside the arches with my new brakes
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150424-WA0034_zps9i5rxth7.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150424-WA0034_zps9i5rxth7.jpeg.html)

All that traction needs strong driveshafts to finally kill the clutch, so when I found these 2 abandoned porsche driveshafts at the scrapyard for 25€ each I just had to take them home. Quickly dismanteled and cleaned up they really put a smile.on my face, they are in excellent condition and around 100€ for each CV joint new...
These units slide right on the bus driveshafts, and are stronger and allow for an additional 5 degrees of angle.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_20150428_191510_zps88lmlkix.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_20150428_191510_zps88lmlkix.jpg.html)

Axles are installed and holding up great! No more clicks under decelleration. Also I took the time to finish my brake upgrade yesterday, it was a long day with lots if measuring, machining the hubs, pressing new bearings and the fabrication of the 2 brackets from 15mm 6086 aluminium (i had plenty left from the gearbox adapter).
After evening dinner it took us untill 1am to finish the actual install and bleeding the brakesystem. But I got to drive home with a new set of brakes in the end.
New 330mm vs old 288mm
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150506-WA0000_zpsb9qjx0ad.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150506-WA0000_zpsb9qjx0ad.jpg.html)

Bracket
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_20150506_120143_zpssupumlbv.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_20150506_120143_zpssupumlbv.jpg.html)

View from the outside
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_20150506_120220_zpstxmfmkom.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_20150506_120220_zpstxmfmkom.jpg.html)

Havent been tuning lately, way too busy at the moment. I had ordered some materials though, preparing for the next part of the build.
One set of oem rs6 mafs, one for me and one for my friend. So I can use the standard maf scaling again instead of the wrong sensor unit scaled for 80mm housing. (It's just not super accurate and more work to get it right than buying the right sensor) My friend has ordered 2 sets of 440cc's, I will be running them at 3 bar and he will get my 4bar regulator to go with the 2871r turbo.
I will stick with the oem k04-020 housing, but with a Mazdaspeed turbine wheel (44.5mm - 50mm full back) and the housing will be machined and ported to fit. Why? The turbine wheel is damaged, so I rather upgrade it to suit future needs. I will build a manifold that places the 02x housing slightly tilted at the same location as my current k03 is sitting, meeting the downpipe without modification. The compressor cover will be clocked to aim towards the ic. For now I will stay with the std compressor, but I am not sure about the driveability of the combo, might change the compressor too when I get near the end of the build. Balancing will be done at the very end anyway.
Air filter will go outside of the enginebay, with a straight 80mm diameter tube about 40cm long between the filter and the maf. Hope to see clean readings from then on  ::)
K04 tilted to longitudinal k03 downpipe position, clocked compressor:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150513-WA0004_zps2icwu4dd.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150513-WA0004_zps2icwu4dd.jpeg.html)

New turbo inlet for the k04 (52-70mm), replaces my k03 reducer on my current tip (45-70mm).
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_20150602_104105_zpshnepdpg9.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_20150602_104105_zpshnepdpg9.jpg.html)

# The rs6 maf is in and logs show a clean 150g/s now. Looks spot on for this k03-005 turbo! I do have heat soak issues so I will move my intake to a cooler place and put some wind guides on the ic's.

Latest log with cold(er) air intake, looks okay, just a few spots leaning to Lambda 1 during the acceleration. Could possibly make a bit more power when I get it smoothed out to 0.9 over the whole range. I also have to revise my wastegate pid because I think I get a small dip around 3000 rpm when the wgdc comes down from 95% a bit too fast (boost drops too far and comes back in to specified).
IAT's stay stable during the acceleration now, on longer runs with multiple gears it rises by 10`C. Zero timing corrections throughout!
2nd gear (logging at max 100km/h), ambient temp around 20`C, LPG fuel.

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG-20150610-WA0000_zps0wwrcup2.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG-20150610-WA0000_zps0wwrcup2.jpeg.html)
Filter is now in the wheel arch behind the suspension.

I received my laser cut flanges yesterday, looking forward to constructing my own bolt on k04-02x for the longitudinal engine.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/IMG_20150626_193719_zps9girokld.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/IMG_20150626_193719_zps9girokld.jpg.html)
Still not sure if I go hybrid or not, might rebuild the turbo with a new turbine first. That's all for future concern, first holiday and building the manifold.

Very cool!

By the way, if you want to save some fuel, make your cruising lambda about 1.15. If you can go leaner without misfiring, go leaner.
On LPG you can go as high as 1.3 on some engines with no issues at all, and you will save quite a bit of fuel.

This will require some mods to the ECU though. As it does not like requesting leaner than 1.
Or hack lambda linearization around the needed area somewhat.

I've been reading up on this for a while, and I'm interested in testing some different approaches on my ecu. I already thought about using my wideband to emulate the signal, but I actually would prefer to have it running on a stock sensor (so I can take out my WB when I want to test other cars). I am going to try the open loop approach first, and adjust just my LPG mapping to see how fuel trims and mileage respond.
I am currently not working on the hardware of the bus, since I have started tuning my friends car that we fitted a gt2860 on. Now that is a fun turbo to drive, I would not even be afraid to put it on my bus  ;D but will start rebuilding the K04 as soon as parts deliver and get started on the manifold later this summer or in the fall  :)
Oh yeah and I fried my 228mm clutch already (no, I dont launch all the time ;) ) so 240mm clutch kit is on its way.Guess the rwd kills the clutch faster with this torque then on a standard fwd with the same weight/power... Too bad, since my single mass 228mm Sachs kit was brand new when I put the engine in 20.000kms ago. I hope the stock 240mm will do the trick with the k04 as well, because after this upgrade, things get really expensive (and worse to drive daily...my biggest concern).

Working on the new clutch kit.
Ordered the parts, 240mm v8 disk and LT II pressure plate:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20150811-WA0000_zpshckbadbl.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20150811-WA0000_zpshckbadbl.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20150811-WA0010_zps0vjufgk7.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20150811-WA0010_zps0vjufgk7.jpeg.html)

Then went to the breakers to find a suitable flywheel. Removed 3 solid flywheels from 1.6 petrol Audi's. On the lathe for resurfacing:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150911_105233_zpsdwpghdev.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150911_105233_zpsdwpghdev.jpg.html)

Then I made a tool to center the flywheel and clutch cover on the turning base of the mill.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151021_161745_zpsbm4xajfk.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151021_161745_zpsbm4xajfk.jpg.html)

Blind threading
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151021_161625_zpsez9sit9t.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151021_161625_zpsez9sit9t.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151021_172424_zpsqps9g4m0.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151021_172424_zpsqps9g4m0.jpg.html)

Done!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20151021-WA0005_zps6988rv7e.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20151021-WA0005_zps6988rv7e.jpeg.html)

Now I just need to get it balanced and borrow someone's hoist for a couple of hours :)

Today I swapped out my larger injectors with my friend, he was running my 370cc set at 4bar to keep his car on decent power until his new injectors went in. We replaced them with 550's wich run excellent now. So, finally my 370cc's back, cleaned them and put new seals on them. They run just fine on the 1.8t, maybe not as smooth as the 550's but well enough. They will support my k04 when it goes in, should outrun the turbo in any case at 4 bar. (We drove them up to 225g/s at decent afr)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151027_205009_zps9cew9li9.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151027_205009_zps9cew9li9.jpg.html)

I finally made up my mind about my turbo upgrade. It will be the k04-020 housings, but I will upgrade to a superback 44.5/50mm turbine and a 2280 ETT compressor  8)
Ordered the wheels today, when they arrive and I find the time I'll start working on the housings. I'm curious how well it will flow, I'm not looking to push the maximum hp but a comfortable 275hp would be nice ::) but first I need to balance the flywheel....

Just for kicks I overlayed my current compressor and the new one.

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/2280%202072%20compressor%20overlay_zpsf0mpab9l.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/2280%202072%20compressor%20overlay_zpsf0mpab9l.jpg.html)

I also plotted the map with some rough rpm/map data and now I understand why these setups tend to surge, this thing definately needs a short leash in the lower rpms  :) from my calculations no more than 15psi @ 3000 rpm or it will surge, havent looked at lower rpms because I dont know how it will exactly spool yet. We will find out later...

The chra of my new k04 is done   ;D

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151126_195458_zpspbiwa5to.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151126_195458_zpspbiwa5to.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151126_195541_zpsnqmhl2o3.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151126_195541_zpsnqmhl2o3.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151126_195602_zpsdnkfniht.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151126_195602_zpsdnkfniht.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151126_195628_zpsf6pbqkfx.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151126_195628_zpsf6pbqkfx.jpg.html)

It's a 50/44.5mm turbine with 2280 compressor, new bearings, seals etc and balanced. Now the next step is to machine the housings  :)
I sold the 370cc injectors already, going for 550cc because they work awesome on my other project as well.

All previous photo's have been restored to Photobucket and I've edited them into the older posts. No progress on the bus at the moment, I'm working on tuning our project Audi TT / saving up money for intercooler and I still need to balance my modified flywheel  ::)

It's that time of the year, a dream came true for me  8)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151222_131207_zpsxt5pbjfp.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151222_131207_zpsxt5pbjfp.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151222_132018_zpscityw8ih.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151222_132018_zpscityw8ih.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151222_170833_zpsqtg2q866.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151222_170833_zpsqtg2q866.jpg.html)

Just need to find another bottle of Argon to get this thing running, first project: tubular manifold  ;D

What are the injectors you're running?

At this moment I'm still on stock AEB injectors @ 4.5 bar. I never really drive on petrol though, just starting and maybe the first km when its cold. They are just about maxed out even on the small K03... I plan on using Bosch/Ford 550cc's when upgrading the turbo, I have put these in another car I've other built and they work very well. For my car I need to shorten the fuel rail height though, or shave the manifold or add spacers. Downside of an AEB intake manifold. I plan on adjusting the fuel rail brackets, I think that is the cleanest option. *and then I found these 550's in a 10mm longer body  ;D problem solved.
Heres a picture of the short 550cc's:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151011_143106_zpsu0xsjrzj.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151011_143106_zpsu0xsjrzj.jpg.html)

Picked up a new engine on wednesday, I like to have one on stock. I plan on building this motor in the future, but for now I'll just sell all parts I dont need and put it in the corner. It's an ARY from 2001 TT with 120.000km. I got it with the loom, maf, wideband sensor, ecu and accelerator pedal for only 450€ so I was happy about that. Just when I got home I pulled the ecu apart and it turned out to be the wrong ecu... 400bb. I googled the part number, and it is actually from the APX engine (this guy had both an APX and ARY engine for sale, but the APX was already gone). So well no big deal, I'll just sell this APX ecu and look for a wideband ecu to convert in the near future. The engine will probably earn itself back without much trouble, I'm just thinking about getting a AGU head to go on it eventually (so I can keep my large port manifold).

Done some good deals the past weeks, I sold both the ECU and the turbo of the spare engine, earning back the €450,- plus I sold the injectors for €75 so I am now actually making money on my spare  :D
Picking up the engine in my bus:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160203-WA0008_zpsohjfb9ha.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160203-WA0008_zpsohjfb9ha.jpeg.html)

It's laying massively in the way (I have a really small workshed and it is literally laying in the doorway so I have to step over it to enter ;D) so I decided to practice my tig welding by making an engine stand. Just need to pick up some tubes for the turnable mount.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160220_143116_zpsms8xlvd3.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160220_143116_zpsms8xlvd3.jpg.html)

I also got started on collecting parts for my new manifold! Just need to make some mockup bracket on my engine so I can weld it and testfit on the spare block so it will roughly match my downpipe.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160216_212240_zpsmypzv0bs.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160216_212240_zpsmypzv0bs.jpg.html)

And I welded a 3" stainless TIP for our project Audi TT to match the turbo inlet. Just need to wait for the silicone hoses, its a 90degree 76mm from the tip to the turbo and a 45 degree 76mm to 80mm from the tip to the MAF.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160219-WA0003_zpsr4yij5h7.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160219-WA0003_zpsr4yij5h7.jpeg.html)

I also bought a B7 A4 ecu (518AQ) to experiment with, turns out there is hardly any definition files for it but I can always crossflash it with the 518AK.. I started disassembling it to try to locate more maps but as always process is slow. I guess I am spoiled with my 512kb fully defined file, so much easier to do specific modifications... Might pick up another wideband ecu (but then go for 05.12 bootrom type) when I get to sell this A4 ecu for a decent price.
And I finally ordered my new injectors, the long Bosch 550cc's. Expecting them next week  :)

Injectors are here  :)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160301_102414_zpsvsiirlic.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160301_102414_zpsvsiirlic.jpg.html)
Long body ev14 550cc to go in the AEB manifold.
Also I've managed to collect some more ecu's  ;D
Sold 1 already and there is offcourse another one in the car. These are for experimenting and tuning. I think I will drive with the 018CG ecu.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160301_111118_zpsnptyau8q.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160301_111118_zpsnptyau8q.jpg.html)

Yesterday I converted the wiring loom, and from today the bus is running on a wideband ecu with 018CA 180hp Audi A6 software. Its stock 180hp at the moment, with some tweaks in eskonf and cw_can. I dont feel like tuning it yet before I put in the new clutch because it really is allmost gone (shame on me!!) Thats now top priority when it comes to repairs, but I really felt like swapping in the wideband ecu to calibrate the new injectors easier  ::)
* I took the flywheel to my local VW dealer, made some smalltalk (Did you know new OEM tfsi coils cost 70€ in the Netherlands?) and then had them put the flywheel on the tire balancing machine  ;D I know its not accurate for this type of measurements, but the goal was to see if the clutch cover was centered properly. And tadahhh second measurement with clutch cover and bolts turned out exactly the same as the bare flywheel :-) I'll just go for it now, if the imbalance is noticable I'll have it precision balanced when I swap engines. Its somewhere in the 5 gram range, so most likely I wont feel it at all. I'll swap it this weekend  :)

Clutch is in for a couple of weeks now, slight issue with the pressure plate that grinds on something during starting starter motor that is on its way out and offcourse a dead throw out bearing that I did not replace :-X
Will have to pull the gearbox again eventually, but for now its fine.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160312_120243_zpsdazkvt8b.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160312_120243_zpsdazkvt8b.jpg.html)

New and old side by side
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160312_131933_zpshfoz0al2.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160312_131933_zpshfoz0al2.jpg.html)

I bought a big Makita disk cutter second hand for just 25€ and after fitting a new disk I was ready to try my first collector for the k04 manifold.
Only problem is I bought galvanized tube, so welding kind of sucks. But I managed to get it clean enough for good result:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160402-WA0007_zpsjogwt6lk.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160402-WA0007_zpsjogwt6lk.jpeg.html)

Welded inside and outside for maximum welding credit  8) (or to cover up imperfect fitment...)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160402_150014_zps4curker1.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160402_150014_zps4curker1.jpg.html)

And there she is on the turbo. Have to think about studs/hex/allen bolts and fitment because this pipe is on the edge of too large for a k04 flange  ::) still able to tighten the allen bolts at this time, so hope it will be ok. Probably need to go for I just found a bag of M10 SW14 nuts in my shed that will fit with the M10 studs  ;D
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160402_151706_zpsmzio8wf4.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160402_151706_zpsmzio8wf4.jpg.html)

Inside comparison with k03mani
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160403_165809_zpswlsgstc2.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160403_165809_zpswlsgstc2.jpg.html)

Positioning hotside on spare block
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160403_175812_zps6vadlvfl.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160403_175812_zps6vadlvfl.jpg.html)

So thats it for now, will post a log soon to show how the bus is running on the wideband setup :)

Started mocking up some bends for the manifold, looks I'm getting fairly equal headers this way. Cylinder 2 and 3 can be joined with 45°bends into Y (for simplicity pictured with 90°bends) and you have to imagine the straight tube section on cylinder 4. All nuts on the head flange can be reached quite easily! What do you guys think? Am I over-complicating this or will this make my campervan a starship  ;D

Stud 'n nut
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160405_204316_zpsxzo5n5lv.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160405_204316_zpsxzo5n5lv.jpg.html)

View on join section 2+3
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160405_203748_zpsrqdiqpd4.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160405_203748_zpsrqdiqpd4.jpg.html)

With imaginary connection to cylinder 4
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160405-WA0008_zpstt2y18rj.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160405-WA0008_zpstt2y18rj.jpeg.html)

Machining the turbo today
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160409_104031_zpsn2kufd4y.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160409_104031_zpsn2kufd4y.jpg.html)
Needs a little trimming of the curved section between inducer and exducer, because of larger tip height. Did not manage to finish it today unfortunately.
Exducer sizing is good, so thats nice.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160416_152231_zpsrk3lnhqb.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160416_152231_zpsrk3lnhqb.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160416_155429_zpsfgtjt2wo.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160416_155429_zpsfgtjt2wo.jpg.html)

So, on to the manifold. Cylinder 1 is done, so next up was cylinder 2 and 3. Looks good to me :)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160415_190210_zpsaal1ktfc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160415_190210_zpsaal1ktfc.jpg.html)

This was during test fitting, not everything aligned. Its all in the right place now. I really like how equal the header lengths turned out so far!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160415_140302_zpsvyadnogi.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160415_140302_zpsvyadnogi.jpg.html)

And some days ago my other AEB head came by mail, I just gave it a quick wash and will be dismantling it soon. I will fit uprated exhaust valves to it and thats about it. It will go onto the new engine that I currently use for building the manifold, so when I get to swap engines I dont have to worry about different size ports. Besides, why would I downgrade my upgraded engine with a small port head  ::)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160414_193337_zpsil1ipop6.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160414_193337_zpsil1ipop6.jpg.html)

Just got back from the shed, I finished the initial fitment of the tacked manifold *happy*  ;D
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160417_113143_zps3vnj5rqv.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160417_113143_zps3vnj5rqv.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160417_113150_zpsl07dq9nd.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160417_113150_zpsl07dq9nd.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160417_113159_zps6zdpwzmo.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160417_113159_zps6zdpwzmo.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160417_113211_zpspckswqyt.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160417_113211_zpspckswqyt.jpg.html)

Manifold is done, head flange is warped by 0.4mm or 0.017' so not too bad. I will machine it flat and have it bead blasted, then it will receive a coating. Super happy with the result. I used up a full 20 litre bottle of argon, but hey ;D

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160422_203115_zpshs9kscam.jpg)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160422_203127_zps95vgf17c.jpg)

I made a heatshield for the valve cover that fits nicely over the manifold, next up is to make the turbo bracket (after machining ofcourse). Then its time to finish the turbo housings and slap it all together on the bus!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_131209_zpsmd7vmsvd.jpg)

Today back to the workshop, tied the compressor housing to the lathe and gave it a whirl
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160429_105652_zps89shmtbs.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160429_105652_zps89shmtbs.jpg.html)

After some measuring and removing the housing and then concluding that the compressor wheel still makes contact, I managed to get it to fit  :P
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160429_113822_zpsjr2o7sxz.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160429_113822_zpsjr2o7sxz.jpg.html)

Tadahhh
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160429_113756_zps9rvvwvv6.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160429_113756_zps9rvvwvv6.jpg.html)

Hi! I'm interested in the OEM 180hp A6 .bin file. Did you get it from this forum or elsewhere on the internet or did you read it from a ECU? Could you upload the file here on the forum?

I want to try crossflash that file to one of my spare ECUs and use it with my AWT engine. The AWT engine uses the 018CG ECU. (1024kb, wideband)

I didn't knew it existed a 180hp wideband ME7.5 version.
Does it already exist a definition for 018CA or did you make your own?

Ah yes, sorry mister Terror Flynn, I found out it was actually a 150hp file. But don't worry, follow my link to the full definition and make it better than 180hp yourself!  ;D
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=10354.msg90466#msg90466 (http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=10354.msg90466#msg90466)

I had the manifold machined flat and then welded in the egt probe. Next step is to coat it and I'm waiting for the new turbine housing to arrive. I ordered 2 k04-020 hotsides because the original one had too many cracks.

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160527_122158_zpsabmk265r.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160527_122158_zpsabmk265r.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160527_122206_zpshmx89hog.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160527_122206_zpshmx89hog.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160527_122222_zpstxugks4v.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160527_122222_zpstxugks4v.jpg.html)

I had some major clutch revision, because my pilot bearing in the crank took a piss and left some parts between the pressure plate and clutch.
After some searching I came to a completely new and untested setup with the modified 240mm single mass flywheel. I am now running a Audi v6 unsprung clutch with Porsche 911 996 clutch cover (Sachs SRE).
Clutch cover Sachs SRE 883082 999736 (PORSCHE OE-99611602701)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160616_102630_zpsvbb69e1u.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160616_102630_zpsvbb69e1u.jpg.html)

old vs new pressure plate
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160616_124502_zpswpqlb056.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160616_124502_zpswpqlb056.jpg.html)

Bought new throw out bearing and needle bearing too
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160616_124653_zpsrlm1uchi.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160616_124653_zpsrlm1uchi.jpg.html)

Bought this Sachs V8 disk, but after fitting it did not work because of the height of the center section with springs allmost touching the fingers of the pressure plate!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160602_105817_zpsmhno6gtn.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160602_105817_zpsmhno6gtn.jpg.html)

Too bad... Its for sale, €100,-.
Then bought a V6 unsprung Sachs clutch to make sure I did not have this issue anymore.
Clutch disk Sachs 1864 528 441 (AUDI OE-034141032L)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160616-WA0011_zpsnods0277.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160616-WA0011_zpsnods0277.jpeg.html)

Had to modify the throw out bearing a bit to extend further out to contact pressure plate, there might be an oem solution for this.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160622_105703_zps4knq1sfp.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160622_105703_zps4knq1sfp.jpg.html)

Now this thing should hold up to around 550NM at the expense of being very heavy on the clutch pedal. We'll get used to that in time for sure. The clutch engagement is very smooth and controlled, and the added gearbox chatter is not too bad. I am confident about this clutch holding about anything I can throw at it with a stock block. If it decides to let go with the K04 (i highly doubt that) there is the option of the SRE clutch disk to hold 700NM. But I think I'll be fine with the smooth stock clutch disk. No lift shift is tested and has zero problems now!

While the gearbox was out, I took my time to revise a couple of things. Because it is flipped upside down, I had issues with breather location. I removed the differential to find a new location.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160601-WA0027_zps3a2bmyeq.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160601-WA0027_zps3a2bmyeq.jpeg.html)

I used a bent brake line brazed to a 8mm copper tube to locate the breather between the ribs, away from oil splashing
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160601-WA0037_zpsbsyjq6up.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160601-WA0037_zpsbsyjq6up.jpeg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160601-WA0035_zpsb0syv5yw.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160601-WA0035_zpsb0syv5yw.jpeg.html)

Little filter on top, and done. No more oil spraying out of the breather now!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160613_164142_zpsu3oq3pj1.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160613_164142_zpsu3oq3pj1.jpg.html)

Also revised my shift mechanism, I used new uniballs with special rubber covers. Also made a better bracket, as can be seen above. This time shaped like a box to keep dirt out. This mechanism reverses the gear stick motion in both directions, so I can select all gears according to the normal Audi H pattern.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160608_122916_zps1dry3vc3.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160608_122916_zps1dry3vc3.jpg.html)

Gearbox support died from age and abuse
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160611_134211_zpswtmd08ue.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160611_134211_zpswtmd08ue.jpg.html)

Bought new Powerflex
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160610-WA0027_zpsxxr7qwa7.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160610-WA0027_zpsxxr7qwa7.jpeg.html)

Reinforced gearbox bracket as well.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160615_210536_zpsj3atdogc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160615_210536_zpsj3atdogc.jpg.html)

Fitting all parts on the driveway  ;D
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160622-WA0012_zps8bweypcl.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160622-WA0012_zps8bweypcl.jpg.html)

Got 2 turbine housings on stock now, so after my holiday I will repeat the milling process on the fresh housing. The other new K04-022 housing is for sale, so if you are interested (Europe) feel free to contact me. I can beat the ebay price of other sellers  ;) Machined housing is also possible, but you'll have to use my spec wheel (2006 Mazdaspeed K04)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160601_120407_zpsetyqygpq.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160601_120407_zpsetyqygpq.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160601_120440_zpsr198tckf.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160601_120440_zpsr198tckf.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160601_120521_zps8oqkysqd.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160601_120521_zps8oqkysqd.jpg.html)

And got my new K04 flange ready, just got sent the wrong size center hole (76mm instead of 80mm). Need to turn it out on the lathe I guess.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160630-WA0005_zpskuciz4qu.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160630-WA0005_zpskuciz4qu.jpeg.html)

Clutch broke loose from center after 5000km  :-[ So unsprung stock clutch on solid flywheel is not a good idea... Had a new clutch custom made to fit with the pressure plate and still have springs in the center, and since then I have driven another 5000km without any problems. Did a 3600km holiday through the Alps, and everything was fine. Little hot intake after climbing long 8% mountain roads, so intercooling can be better. Thats all for later concern, first up is building the turbo for more powah  ;D

"defective" clutch
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160715_204159_zpsyhhbqnpb.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160715_204159_zpsyhhbqnpb.jpg.html)

new custom clutch
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160719_195244_zpso12de4vl.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160719_195244_zpso12de4vl.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160719_205711_zpsqrwtlbbd.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160719_205711_zpsqrwtlbbd.jpg.html)

clearance with pressure plate
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160719_214353_zpsgarp0ri1.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160719_214353_zpsgarp0ri1.jpg.html)

Spent the evening on finishing my turbo (finally!) Result is very pleasing, exactly 0.5mm clearance between housing and turbine wheel.
The turbine inducer area is also modified, since my turbine wheel has 8mm inducer tip height.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160819-WA0036_zpstrdr5khj.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160819-WA0036_zpstrdr5khj.jpg.html)

Also re-skimmed my manifold on a big belt grinder, because the guy that skimmed the manifold did it in 2 grinding passes ??? and left some unevenness. Now it is nice and flat without tracks.  
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160820_102555_zpstzsnr3tu.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160820_102555_zpstzsnr3tu.jpg.html)

chra fitted, wastegate is also slightly ported
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160820_121727_zpsejcarim1.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160820_121727_zpsejcarim1.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160820_122247_zpspisw0axk.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160820_122247_zpspisw0axk.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160820_122308_zps2sbrby5e.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160820_122308_zps2sbrby5e.jpg.html)

I'm going to do some finishing touches to the housings, like polish the inlet and port out the wastegate and exhaust inlet a bit more. Then, coat the manifold and bolt the assembly to my engine!
To deal with the added hot airflow, I decided to switch from air/air to water/air. There will be a 500x300mm radiator in front of the engine radiator and this should be more than adequate for charge cooling the expected airflow. The twin sidemounts in the back of the car will not be sufficient, because it already gets fairly hot now on k03.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160812-WA0007_zpsb2q8fmgw.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160812-WA0007_zpsb2q8fmgw.jpeg.html)

Just for the cool picture here
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160821_210132_zpscijic6x9.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160821_210132_zpscijic6x9.jpg.html)

Coated and baked the manifold and housing
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160825-WA0001_zpss5kamrqk.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160825-WA0001_zpss5kamrqk.jpeg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160825-WA0003_zpsyfxhfcas.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160825-WA0003_zpsyfxhfcas.jpeg.html)

Testfit
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160829_120833_zpstpii6rs0.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160829_120833_zpstpii6rs0.jpg.html)

Removed camber from rear suspension with a neat shim. At -1.5 degrees per wheel now. (http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160826_113411_zpsqufckniy.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160826_113411_zpsqufckniy.jpg.html)

Much better!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160826_131307_zpswibaqdda.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160826_131307_zpswibaqdda.jpg.html)

Radiator for charge cooler (ford fiesta 1.1 engine radiator  ;D)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160907_122645_zpspq9fqv2j.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160907_122645_zpspq9fqv2j.jpg.html)

Exomount radiator JDM style  ;D . No, this will be packaged between the front panel and radiator including a slim fan. Should work with available space...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160907_130006_zpsimenqiwe.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160907_130006_zpsimenqiwe.jpg.html)

And driven by this pump
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/1679677236-2059383148_zpstwpkmwmc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1679677236-2059383148_zpstwpkmwmc.jpg.html)

Hope to receive parts within the next week. There is also a new wastegate actuator coming in, I bought a unit with adjustable spring to finetune.

Made a custom actuator bracket
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160910_191529_zpsq9zvclnw.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160910_191529_zpsq9zvclnw.jpg.html)

Fits very nice, and clears belt cover
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160910_193659_zpssiw2av8b.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160910_193659_zpssiw2av8b.jpg.html)

Special menu
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-09-10_19.47.41_zps5ajjlnqc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-09-10_19.47.41_zps5ajjlnqc.jpg.html)

Actuator rod was 3cm too long, so I just cut and weld it instead of re-threading (stainless).
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160912-WA0005_zpsbwpm12b4.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20160912-WA0005_zpsbwpm12b4.jpeg.html)

Plug n Play!

Hardware for AWIC complete
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_20161001_111246_zps7xphyn0u.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_20161001_111246_zps7xphyn0u.jpg.html)

Removed head and pistons from spare block, engine is in top condition. AYP head will be replaced with this AEB head
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_20160926_150941_zpsmqf3nlsa.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_20160926_150941_zpsmqf3nlsa.jpg.html)

Almost no carbon buildup on the inner pistons...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_20160926_134931_zpsaho2peqo.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_20160926_134931_zpsaho2peqo.jpg.html)

I will put forged connecting rods in this engine, but for now I still run the 280.000km AEB engine untill it dies. I inspected the cams through the oil filler hole, and my AEB cams look REALLY worn out compared to the set I have on stock. More power with the new head for sure  ;D The new AEB head will get new Supertech exhaust valves and uprated springs too for maximum durability. Rosten Performance rates their springs at 211lbs at full lift, which is more than the Supertech. Today I looked around for pricing on titanium alloy, I am considering to do a small batch (like 3 sets) of titanium spring retainers. If anyone is interested, I am willing to calculate pricing on those items. I have a starting company in performance parts and I'm willing to do starting offers to get the name out. I'm also considering to do a small batch of 144x19mm forged I beam rods for around 300€ per set.

Upcoming plans:
I will make a new center muffler this winter because I want to get the exhaust more silent. There is a lot of drone on the highway, and we're expecting another baby in February that I don't want to make deaf instantly. Industrial earmuffs would be an option too, but that looks stupid  ::)
My plan is as following:
There will be a 3" straight tube with electric valve, with the valve shut the gasses will leave the tube on the side into a 2" perforated tube towards the back. Then bounce back on the end cap of the muffler into another 2" perforated tube and through a chamber back in the 3" straight after the valve. Because I use a dual 2" setup, total tube ID area will be only be reduced by 10% when the valve is shut, but damping area is increased by 400%. The addition of chambers will get rid of the drone too. My final goal will be to control the exhaust valve with map switching and using the N80 output as a control trigger. Much like the new RS3 in dynamic mode  :)
Another advantage is that with the valve opened, I have even less dampening then I have now, since the 3" pipe will not be perforated anymore like it is now.

Today I spent about an hour on my automatic map switching asm, I had a great idea to super-simplify it. I already located the ignition routine in IDA, so I took another look at it.

This part of the code makes the ecu choose either KFZW2 or KFZW1 depending on the cam changeover flag. My engine doesnt have variable cam timing, so KFZW1 would make the perfect map switching for me between petrol and lpg. I want to switch the mapping with the input from ushk (rear o2) since I dont use this one either. I located the ram variable for ushk and simply coded this adress in place of fnwue so the map will be chosen depending on voltage from the o2.

Now, I simply changed this in the binary (F3 F8 0D 09 I replaced with F3 F8 73 89) and the ecu still boots. I started me7logger, and if I short pin 68 and 69 on the ecu the ram variable of ushk changes. The ecu does not brick or reboot ;D. Next step is to test this in the car with different (safe) ignition mappings and see if I succesfully hacked the ecu to force it into KFZW1. It is allmost too simple to be true, but we'll see what happens! Maybe it needs a bit more hacking, for instance if the variable is actually never at zero in the ecu. I'll just test that in the car first.  I'll let you guys know if it works.

** update 11 october
I thought about this and I need to rectify one thing. While fnwue is working like a flag in this part of the code, it is actually a factor. The next part of the routine consists of the interpolation between kfzw1 and kfzw2, so if I dont touch this code and the actual fnwue factor is <1 I wont get the (exact) ignition mapping I'm looking for. So I'll log if fnwue is 1 and if its not I'll replace it with a fixed factor in the code. Hope to test later today. If this works, maybe even a flex fuel sensor can be used to set a fake fnwue factor for use in bi fuel applications.I'll start a new topic about this if todays experiment works...

NICELY DONE

That is really cool.

I'm really stoked about this idea, but maybe it will not work without other modifications to the code. I logged fnwue on my car, and with the engine running it is 0. So to fully understand what I need to do, lets take another look at the code that I have split into 3 sections
So, what I can conclude from this code is that fnwue=0 is passed in the ecu as a value of FF.
I think that because if the difference between 0FFh and the value stored in fnwue has to be zero to actually run from the kfzw2 values. So, I need to find out what exact value I am giving to the ecu when I short the lambda2 input.

Next part of the code:
Now, if I understand this part correctly it means that when the byte of fnwue is at a value of 0, the conditionflag 'Not Zero' will  not be set, and the content of kfzw1 is loaded into the registry. If there is any other value than 0 in fnwue, the routine jumps to the final section of code:


This is the part where from my understanding the interpolation and multiplication is done from the factor in fnwue.

To hack the code and force kfzw1 I think I have 2 options:
Find out what values my ushk gives when open and when shorted, if the shorted ushk gives a byte of 0 or 255 it follows the code and runs from either kfzw1 or kfzw2. The catch is that ushk must not give any other value than 255 or 0 or else it will go into interpolation mode.
If the open or shorted ushk does not give 0, maybe I just make it jump to loc_9EE62 so it completes this part of the routine anyway. It will then run from kfzw1 and skip the interpolation part. The only problem in this situation is that I still need the 255 value or I will disable kfzw2.
 
Lets find out!  ;D Any comments or tips are welcome, I really suck at asm.

I logged the variable ushk without any conversion, and it gives a value of 125 when its open and 38 when it is shorted to the output pin. I assume that these are the actual byte values. So either I need to change the ushk conversion, or just compare to 07Dh in code section #1 and change the jump in section #2. I´ll try to compile something and test it tonight  :o  


I have made a seperate topic for the kfzw switching function:
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=11558.0 (http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=11558.0)

Heel gaaf, Tijn.
Really cool if this all works.

The switching is functional now, see the other topic for how I did it. One thing I have to add is that I had a lambda B1S1 malfunction code after running lean for a minute while the switch condition was active. This code is set when the ecu sees a lean condition on B1S1 and a voltage over 0.46 on B1S2 over a set period of time. Now, the secondary o2 is coded out in my file, but it can still trigger this fault code it seems. I then hardcoded the value for the secondary o2 to 0.45v and have seen no fault codes ever since.

I will flash a more agressive timing map on it today and see how it responds  ;D Havent seen any CF's for over a year since I have been running petrol timing on lpg. Now its time to look for the hidden power.
At the same time, my driveshafts are taking a dump on me again (this is my 3rd set, genuine GKN/Lobro CV's that just get destroyed from the torque at my driveshaft angle, its a common 4wd offroad issue normally but i managed to introduce it to a lowered 2wd street car....) and I'm getting a bit sick of it. I hope to develop a custom set of gears soon to flip the box back into its natural position (drive flanges low, axles straight) and get my CV joints to actually last over 5 months...
Dumping the clutch in a frustrated mood did not help for the sound effects that I get when driving... (clunk clunk clunk)
** did a log with the new ignition settins, still no CF. added another 3*  ;D
Clunking noises have been identified this morning, I spent a couple of minutes under the car and found out that the CV's are fine. When spinning the wheels, I would get very metallic clicking noises from... the gearbox. So I added about 3(!) litres of oil and now it is a lot quieter. Looking for a new gearbox now, seems like there is a ton of play on the differential. Maybe if it lets go I'll just weld it shut untill I get my previous plan with custom gears up to speed...
*** Just did a quick testdrive, in my own street the box was clicking like it was going to die, the next street it was a bit more quiet. Did a 5km drive at 80km/h and then the box was completely silent again! wow.. I dont really trust the box for longevity anymore, but it sure isn't going down without a fight  ;D Maybe it is because of the super pro gearbox oil additive that I threw in with todays oil refill  ::), or the new oil just washed some gear debris from the differential hahaha
****One day later, the noise was back. I did another check of the driveshafts, and found that the car was silent again after moving the passenger side driveshaft in and out, then after about 100meters it started making noise again. So it was the cv joint after all! Spent a good 2 hours on the parking lot at around 5 deg C, but I fixed it with a spare CV joint and new grease. Now all is good again.

I hacked my file to 5120mbar, and it is working very well. The only problem is my turbo, it doesnt want to make enough boost to actually go over the old limit haha  ;D It looks like the turbinehousing is cracked, but thats not too bad after ~300.000km of service. A thing I noticed in my logs is that I re-enabled KFLBTS fueling in my file somewhere along the way, and the mixture was way too rich for my liking (0.76). But with my recently accuired skills of writing custom code I just added a switched KFLBTS map that tops out at lambda 0.9 when driving on LPG. Better economy at WOT and lower EGT ;D WIN!

In my latest file I am now running a 16x10 hand-coded field  ;D since I have got the hang of asm I decided to switch some more maps with the lpg switch.
Now I'm switching:
-KFZW
-KFLBTS
-FKKVS
-KRKTE (tricky, it is used in 3 different parts of code in 3 different registers. So I gave it 3 dedicated subroutines)
-TVUB
So all fuel control for the LPG is now also done by ME7 except for correction by gas pressure and gas temperature. This will give me more realistic injector opening times in my logs, thus more insight in the tune. So far the LPG is holding up quite nicely, the pressure is low and the factor is only about 15% compared to my 550cc petrol injectors.
I am still looking for the LALIUS code in ida, I may have overlooked it when I was searching for it some time ago. It was at least not referenced as a map, but maybe it is passed as a couple of words.. This would give me the final control that I am looking for, I want to offset the o2 reading a bit during cruising speeds so I get lambda ~1.1. I will add rl as a variable, so it is only active during low loads (and above idle).

Also, while I was working around in the bin, I noticed that my launch control variables are actually partially in a xref code section. So I reworked the adresses to a new location. I noticed in the main code that the coolant temperature variable is actually not even referenced... I never tested the function on cold engine, but I assume that it will work at any coolant temp. Driver should be in control anyways ;)

I received my 3bar mapsensor, but havent installed it yet due to size difference. I'll install it in my new intercooler to save me some extra work.

TijnCU,

really excellent job  :o :o :o

Nice project!
How are IAT's with this intercooler?
I use same one, but heatexchange is quite bad.
IAT's go high and water stays cold..

Be extra careful with something like that.
There is more than one way for referencing stuff in the code, so even if there aren't any "direct" references, you better double-check. A good trick is to look for 16-bit var address directly in the hexdump, then check the code at whatever addresses you find.

Just a totally random example:
Say, we're looking for indirect pukor_w references, and we know that it is located at 0x38512A.
So, take the 16-bit address (it should be 0x112A in this case) - and search your bin for it (mind the LoHi thing).
Now, if you find something like "mov r12, 0x112Ah", treat it very carefully! Inspect the code, check DPPs, - and most likely it will actually be referencing your var.

This is exactly how I relocated the variables (only in binary). They are quite easy to see in the launch control code block. I did some extra searching around the code call, but didnt find any references. I think it may be an error from the launchcontrol php script, because in my friends tt, the launch function also works at any operating temp.
The launch control code is something different than full ecu code offcourse..

Hey Johan,
I havent installed the intercooler yet. Have you played with pump speed? If you have too much water flow, it cant absorb all off the heat.
In my case the water ic will be more efficient in any case since my intercoolers don't have direct airflow...(rear mounted)

i run 600 hp with it so just need bigger core i think.
But water stays really cool, maybe with less waterflow it will be better...
But think i change to air/air.
I use Golf 7 GTD pump.

You could put a restrictor in the water exit and see if iats improve  :)
My setup with this engine will not be above 300hp for a road tune. Need to have low down power to move this 1750kg brick around  ;D
If I ever want to have more power, I will buy a larger engine.

I have 830 kg car, no need for low end torque  ;D
Will try restrict waterflow.

Seen quite some T3's with diesels, but never with 1.8t with 300 hp.
Will turn quite some heads  :P

Water to air coolers should only be used where it is not possible to use a direct cooler.
For example roots/screw blowers mounted on top of manifold, cars with rear-mounted engines and so on.

It is always much more efficient to go air->air than air->water->air.

Combined powers from the launch function and the hard limiter  ;D
I need to do a proper video some day again, but this was just during my mapswitching test drive..
https://youtu.be/NVlC9XhhFwA

If I find the time to fix my loose shifter, next time I'll flat shift it into 2nd  ;)

LOL
Never seen a T3 do that  ;D

I reworked my mapswitching completely, now every map gets switched from ram. Because I am now satisfied with both the automatic lpg mapswitching and the performance oriented mapswitching, I decided to take another look at switching an electric exhaust cutout. Because I am no expert in writing code, I decided to use a switched arduino instead. Here is what I did:

I located the rear o2 sensor heater control in IDA. B_hshe is the bit for rear o2 heater on, so I followed that lead. I found that it sets P2.4, so I concluded that this must be the actual heater control. I placed NOP at the 3 locations where this pin is set, and implemented the bset P2.4 and bclr P2.4 in my mapswitching code.
When I switch to the "performance map", ecu pin 63 starts to transmit a voltage (on other maps it gives out 0v).
Then, the arduino receives this signal and is programmed to give 12v to one side of the exhaust motor (by use of 2 relays) for 2 seconds. The valve opens, and the arduino links both sides of the motor to ground. When I switch back to another map setting, the arduino gives 12v to the other side of the motor, reversing action. After 2 seconds it is both to ground again.
Simple, but very cool function!  ;D Total cost of arduino material: <10$
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20161218-WA0004_zps5zdrotdt_edit_1482068305760_zps4tw2cjd5.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20161218-WA0004_zps5zdrotdt_edit_1482068305760_zps4tw2cjd5.jpeg.html)

Very cool idea. Just from experience, those electric exhaust cutouts usually live a short life, due to the conditions they work in. They tend to seize up over time.

Would you suggest to cycle the valve before every start? Its all stainless steel, and I mostly drive on lpg (very low carbon deposits). Might help with lifespan  :)
The motor is very heavy too, same brushed dc motor as I have on my adjustable seats :o

I'm sure that would help. All the ones I've seen have the huge motors attached, and were also stainless. I see the OE VW ones for the TDI's seize up quite often as well. You would think that design would have been thought through/ optimized.  :P

Diesel is the other side of the scale when it comes to carbon deposits, but its good that you think with me!
I have now programmed the arduino to cycle the valve once when I put the ignition on. I haven't built in the cutout yet, I will make it into a muffler first. I'll do some tests with different voltages first to see how it influences speed.
Anyway, the whole point was to get rid of that stupid remote control  ;D and make it a bit more integrated and intuitive. The durability will show in the time to come.... *one good thing about the cutout design is that it is a worm gear setup, so there is no way the exhaust gas can control the valve + lots of torque from the motor.

Test on the bench:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-QDCXax4IY

Added arduino tvout for display on my multimedia radio in the car. Ordered 2 more thermocouples to monitor intercooler coolant temp and post cooler temp :)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_20161221_215730_zpsll9zjmvb.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_20161221_215730_zpsll9zjmvb.jpg.html)

The only cutouts that work well in my experience are Pierburg.
The ones used by OEM's. You can buy them in vacuum and electronic form in quite a few different shapes and sizes.

The only downside is the prices start at about ca. 150-200 EUR for one cutout.

I have used mostly vacuum ones. On a B5 RS4 we blocked one tail pipe hole, and it made the exhaust a lot more quiet cruising and idle.
I used the N335 flap control map to control it from the ECU.

On a Porsche Cayenne Hybrid 3.0 TFSi who needed more sound we welded bypass pipes with flaps to the original exhaust, bypassing the big rear silencer.
Here the best and smooth results were by using simply the vacuum from the intake manifold (they are closed under vacuum). This made for a smooth transition, having the car quiet at low rpm's and low load, and the exhaust really coming alive at WOT.

I have considered a vacuum setup as well, but I like the feature of having a louder idle and overrun as well. The quality of this valve is obviously shitnese, but if it fails I can always cut it open and put in a new valve/motor. I hope to have at least a little more reliability at first by having a custom electrical circuit with proper components... I dont think that 150€ is a lot of money for a quality part, so I will keep this in mind! All in all, this current cutout has cost me around 70€ including tax etc already.

One of the problems of driving the 1.8t in a brick like the VW T3 is the lack of vacuum on the highway, I am always on boost due to air resistance.. When I drive around 90 there is not so much engine noise or drone, but that would kill the whole idea of swapping engines :P

So.. its been a while since I have worked on the car, lots of other stuff on my mind and in my life at the moment. My second child was born this month, so I am a little low on energy  ::) But, the bus needed its periodical check and I knew about some parts that needed replacing. So I went to my friend and put it on the hoist, replaced both sides lower balljoints and dust covers on the steering rack
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170221_111528_zpswnv81mmm.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170221_111528_zpswnv81mmm.jpg.html)

Other side reassembled, still love the brakes
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170221_111553_zpsdyctvsos.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170221_111553_zpsdyctvsos.jpg.html)

lunchbreak with a view
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170221_133111_zpsulrkiqoy.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170221_133111_zpsulrkiqoy.jpg.html)

At home I made a small adapter for the map sensor out of 6068, and my friend welded it on the intercooler ( I dont have an A/C tig at home). looks good, the chinesium alloy welds just fine :-)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170222_162821_zpsfaaakdld.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170222_162821_zpsfaaakdld.jpg.html)

I brought the hybrid turbo too, but unfortunately we ran out of time... I need to find another day when my wife will let me leave the house again  ;)
Today the bus got approved for another 2 years now, and the VW mechanics had a little fun with the launch control in the workshop. I use the custom ecu tuning as an excuse for the lack of bodywork maintenance  ;D

I am considering stroking my spare block to 2067cc to allow for a larger turbo in the future, my eye has fallen on a 12cm twinscroll hx35 for when I decide I need even more power. I would love to make a nice twinscroll manifold for such a setup.
But first I need to get the hybrid running and tuned  ::) (ridiculous even thinking about an upgrade before upgrade is installed right?)

Awesome build! Congrats on the new family member.

congrads!

HX35 isn't great for spool on that engine..
I build one on a M50b25 bmw makes 510 hp but spool is not great for daily driver..

Just looking around, not purchasing anything yet. Need to build the block first  :) the holset got my attention because you can get thenm everywhere for cheap and there are a lot of flavours. There are over a dozen different housings for the hx series,  even as small as 8cm² t3. Ive seen a video of a Mitsubishi 2.0 engine spooling the 12cm² twin scroll by 3000rpm, I thought that was pretty impressive for such a big turbo and it then got my interest. Not really looking for 500hp atm but if its possible without spooling after 3500rpm I'm all ears ;D I wouldnt want to choke the engine with a small k04 after increasing displacement  ;)
But for now that is all just fantasy, need to install the hybrid first, get it tuned well and then need to put some cash aside for custom pistons...

Currently working on tuning my fuel switch, I disabled all scaling and offsets in the LPG ecu and this now only takes care of gas temperature and pressure fluctuations. Me7 is giving out the global injection times by using a different krkte and a additive tvub offset. Had a hard time making a switchable tvub function, for some reason the ecu was unhappy. But, since I dont have correct offset data on the lpg injectors I just made a small function that adds a given injection time to the output of tvub when the ecu is in lpg mode. I found it was hard to keep afr under control when the me7 injector times are not equal to the piggyback, a 1ms correction from me7 could mean a 3ms correction in reality. Now I can also observe IDC better, I think I need to run close to the maximum injector flow with the k04h

Bought a set of good S3 pistons today, I will do a bit of a budget build on the new block first but I'd like to make the block a bit more durable. Offcourse the pistons are coupled to a set of forged H beams. I decided I dont want to blow over a 1000€ on parts and machining when there are much better and cheaper alternatives (like a bigger engine). So first I wanted to just go with the stock pistons, but after looking at the tapered wrist pin design, I decided to go with the 20mm S3 version instead. I am hoping they are 9:1 compression, but not too sure on that. I will measure the domes when they are here and compare them to the ARY pistons I have here.

I had some leftover heatwrap laying around so I decided to wrap my manifold before install, it will be super close to the fiberglass engine lid so this at least helps to keep the heat down in the back of the van...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170315_165616_zpsdux19olg.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170315_165616_zpsdux19olg.jpg.html)

Added pressure port on the compressor cover
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170316_173123_zpsmerssyam.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170316_173123_zpsmerssyam.jpg.html)

Great project

Thanks!
Well, shit. Today I decided it was time for the k03 to retire, and I started removing parts early this afternoon. After draining coolant and having everything but the manifold off, I started unbolting. First one came with the stud, second one snaps! 3rd bolt...snaps too! I then decided this wasnt my day and put everything back together (only now with 2 less nuts holding the manifold). Not going to risk breaking more, I need the car tomorrow.. so the turbo swap will be a bit of a challenge when I find the time to do it  :-[
Only upside from today is that I now had time to make a proper heatshield where the downpipe passes the cv joint. I was melting the covers on traffic jams ;D
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_120035_zpsyk1kn0yh.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_120035_zpsyk1kn0yh.jpg.html)

Out with the old
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170315_160324_zpsovrvo6bq.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170315_160324_zpsovrvo6bq.jpg.html)

And in with the new  :)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_215748_zpsr4fewvmx.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_215748_zpsr4fewvmx.jpg.html)

The cr of the APY piston is definitely lower than the ARY, you can even see it with the naked eye:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_161634_zpslf3f8zrc.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_161634_zpslf3f8zrc.jpg.html)

And I was surprised by how small the stock 19mm smallend was, glad I am currently still on my AEB block :)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_131114_zpsmu1hqsg5.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_131114_zpsmu1hqsg5.jpg.html)

Glad I made this decision, its a bit of a hack to put in used pistons but they will get new rings and the block gets a hone. They are of similar age and mileage too (~120.000km / 75.000 miles). I've done much worse engine refreshments  :P

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_215558_zps3ozbbhnf.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170322_215558_zps3ozbbhnf.jpg.html)

I noticed on some pictures of your engine that you've left the pressure ref unconnected on the FPR, mistake or intentionally?
Is the (4B0906018CA 0261206917 0003 1.8T AWT Audi A6 150hp) bin a returnless fulesystem bin? Just as the A4 B5.5 mostly are.
(I assumed you're running this bin, as per your other posts...)

If running returnless software then i can see why running the FRP ref unconnected otherwise it's not right.
Or you might have a good reason?!? :-O

/D

No, it is connected. Maybe that was when I had an external pressure regulator installed, but at the moment I am on an OEM3 bar regulator with 550cc's. To be honest, I dont know if the CA bin is a return fuel system or not, but my system is return fuel. I dont have any fuel issues... :)
Thanks for thinking with me!

I like your car!

You should double check if the arp2000 are real or fake.
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4/threads/12211.phtml

It is very hard to be sure these days, but ARP states the following:


This should mean that they are genuine, the seller also states the bolts as genuine ARP 2000 bolts. I sent an email to ARP to check. Fingers crossed  :o ;D
I have read on other forums that the manufacturer is in fact using authentic ARP products, so I am not very worried  ;)


I have had some contact with the supplier the past weeks, I initially ordered the 19mm rods but they are really narrow (20mm everywhere). Besides that, there was no taper on the small end, so I needed to machine that for myself. At this point I just didnt want to stick with those rods, and I asked the supplier for options. I got to change them for 20mm pin versions (which are the correct 24.9mm big end width as well) free of charge. Shipping was only 1 day from Germany to the Netherlands, so all in all I was happy how business went with them.

Who did you buy the rods from?
Any clearance issues in the 058 block?
What did you pay for them?

Bought another car today, setting the 1.8t counter on 3  :D
Its a 2001 AUM, with a blown turbo. A bit like a real 007 gadget with smoke screen on demand (boost). My wife will be driving it, so I will just install an old turbo that I have left from the gt2860r TT. More downtime for the turbo bus yeah  ;D

After about 340.000km, the engine finally gave.
I lost all compression on cilinder 1, I checked the valves with a scope but cant really determine if they are bent too bad. I still drive the car a few times a week untill she blows up or untill my new engine is finished, what ever comes first. It still wants to rev to 6800rpm and I can still drive over 150km/h, but idle sounds like a classic VW engine.. good for me it is in an old vw :-)
Compression results of all cylinders: 1.5 - 6 - 6 - 7 bar. Amazing it still puts out enough power to drive  ;D
I have cleaned the pistons on my new block and assembled new Götze rings, honed the block, attached rods and new KS sputter bearings.
All valves are cleaned / polished, and I am currently awaiting my piston installation tool and valve lapping stuff. Hope to put the new engine together in the upcoming week or so. Will be fitted with the new hybrid ofcourse, so I should be looking at a nice overall power increase.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_20170701_161254_zpsk8igv3jw.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_20170701_161254_zpsk8igv3jw.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_20170627_131757_zpsfvbelpir.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_20170627_131757_zpsfvbelpir.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_20170701_192520_zpsuz3yhr0n.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_20170701_192520_zpsuz3yhr0n.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG_20170703_220544_zps7gyfzvw6.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG_20170703_220544_zps7gyfzvw6.jpg.html)

(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/tijnvanesch/engine%20conversion/IMG-20170705-WA0016_zpsv0lgwqds.jpeg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/tijnvanesch/media/engine%20conversion/IMG-20170705-WA0016_zpsv0lgwqds.jpeg.html)

The A3 is running great, I am doing boost linearisation runs on it now to finalize the tune. I did a map switching set of stock, power and economical, and I get 15.2km per litre on average now! (130km/h highway and around 80-100km/h on most B roads). So despite good 200hp tune, mostly driving  on 0%wg like a grandma ;D

Head is ready for mild porting, K04 hybrid is up for sale. I decided to sell the manifold and turbo because I want to step up to a true twin scroll gt3071. Its always more fun to build stuff I think, and the turbo is laying around for ages collecting dust. I have had some interest in it, so hopefully I can sell it soon. Price is 1200€ for the manifold + turbo + gaskets and 0.8bar wastegate actuator, if anyone here is interested. Thought that was a decent price for a custom longitudinal kit with tubular.
Anyways, if I get to ordering new stuff I will update this page. Also I have seen photobucket fucked the internet by removing all 3rd party links, so I will try to relocate my albums to somewhere else.

K04 is sold, gt3071 is on the way. I will put on a billet wheel and twin scroll housing later, first I need to finish the engine and build a manifold. I still need valvesprings, thinking to go for the Rosten kit.
Looking forward to driving it with power again, currently the old engine is still working and going strong on 3 cilinders every day  ??? ;D full 1 bar boost by 3500 rpm on a k03 yoo.

If someone wants to share their vision on valves...
In the vag tuning scene it is very common that people install stainless or inconel valves when rebuilding their heads. In other cases people are very happy with sodium filled valves and these are considered an upgrade over one piece valves because of heat dissipation as well as weight saving (for example 4g63 evo). Even our B5 RS4 as the same exhaust valves. Now, I am going to install stonger springs in my head in any case, but I am not decided on changing the valves just yet. I feel that both stainless and inconel might be a bad upgrade because of the increased heat that will be put in the valve seat. Weight is less of a concern with the stronger springs I guess. The reason I do the springs is just because of the fact I dont want to use old worn springs and the rev limit will probably be around 8000 rpm (judging by the compressor map).

oh, and its here  ;D
Kind of special compressor wheel on it, looks more like a hta73 clone.. anyone that knows what it compares to?
53mm inducer, 73mm exducer, 77.5mm ett 7+7 24mm blade height 15mm hub

Did some cleanup on the compressor housing, smoothed the surge port edges a bit and a quick polish.
I have bought a .82 twin scroll housing too, should be interesting to swap the housings on the dyno to see the difference in spool and flow compared to the open scroll .63

The reason why the sodium valves are removed is because when stiffer springs are installed they are hit harder and sodium filled valves are more brittle.
RS4 is nothing special because the max safe rev limit is 7200 RPM on stock head.

It is actually the intake valves that have the soft springs and give issues, so for an easy RPM bump it's enough to replace them.
Doing it correctly you need both intakes and exhausts and then you need to change the exhaust valves to withstand the bigger forces exerted on them.

Thanks for your reply! I initially thought about this, but I figured the valves would still follow the cams and this would be a lot less destructive compared to a floating valve. What would you advise your customers for lpg powered daily driven cars? Would a staibless valve be durable enough?

I am also thinking ahead on how I am going to get enough LPG in the engine with the big turbo, because the choises on injectors are a bit limited. There are larger truck injectors on the market, but they have slow opening/closing times so I am sure there will be no way the engine will idle at lambda 1. That is no option for me, because I need the car to pass the inspection and also because it is a waste of fuel. The other option is to make a staged system, and I am really considering this. A simple way would be to link the ground wires (trigger) together with the gas injector loom but feed 12v to the second stage from the ECU, for example from the SAI pump. Ofcourse combined with a halved krkte and triggered from rpm or load. Not sure if the gas controller can survive a double injector on a single trigger though, but if not I suppose I could move up to a 8 cilinder controller. There are not many examples on higher power small LPG engines that I have found (in fact did not find any) so it is a bit of an adventure. But I am sure I'll manage, just go step by step.

You also have a boost limit due to the evaporator pressure.

If you want to make bigger power in LPG it is best to inject liquid, not gas.

Yes you are right about choke flow but I should not have issues with my goals for boost. My evaporator is rising rate and I have only 1.4 bar base rail pressure (that should currently net enough injector for 240hp). I have seen well over 1.5 bar boost and no problems with lpg delivery at all.

On the other side I really like the liquid injection concept, and must confess that I did not even consider it yet. Mostly due to the fact I only knew about prins and vialle systems (not good for high power) but after a quick search I see that a lot of companies are making liquid injection kits now. I will look more into it, if there is a 500hp capable external pump kit that might be the way forward..

To add on this after reading on about choke flow, what I have gathered there should not be any problems with injector flow up to at least 1.7 PR (butane).  My current injectors are limited to 4 bar maximum working pressure, so if I want to run 2.5 bar boost I can not exceed 1.5 bar base rail pressure and have a 1.43PR at maximum boost in result (accounted for atmospheric). The Barracuda lpg injectors are slightly better flowing and can handle up to 4.5 bar, so if I would buy 8 of those I could go for 2 bar base pressure and end up at 1.57PR with maximum boost. My reducer can not support 2 bar base pressure though (nor the maximum power output), but I found an Australian made reducer (AMR M7) that is rated for 2.7bar outlet pressure and 575hp. Concluding, there might be some options with vapour injection still that would cost me a lot less money converting, however lacking the nice evaporative cooling you obviously get from liquid injection.

After much debate (in my mind) I ordered a set of Mahle exhaust valves. I had been watching both Supertech and Ferrea, but I just think they are just too expensive for my application. Then I had contact with Rosten performance, that sold me the uprated valvespring kit, and he mentioned his performance valves come from Mahle and he never had one perform less than any Supertech or Ferrea valve that he sold before. This kind of opened my eyes for other brands, and as it turned out I could get a nice deal on these valves through a German supplier. These valves are bi-metal CrMnNi head / CrSi stem but not hollow, and are recommended for the highest thermal and mechanical requirements by Mahle. Part number is 029VA30519000, we will see how they hold up in the future  :)

A friend broke a Rosten performance spring at idle on a RS4, this after a complete engine rebuild. luckily, no damage was done.

Everything can break. For me this is the most money I am willing to spend on this engine, and I am sure it will be just fine.
The AEB head was port matched and cleaned up a bit, no major port work. All valves lapped in and installed with the new springs, and cams back in including VVT tensioner. The head is now back on the block, waiting for more free time to complete the installation  :) *added clean valve cover and temporary manifold, awaiting tool steel dowels for pinning the crank gear after which I will complete the belt side of the engine.

I had a set of Rosten springs on my 1.8T and they worked phenomenally well. I was boosting 30+PSI on a 60-1 and later, a Comp 5556 (flows between a GT3076 and GT3582) I also regularly wound the motor out to 8000 RPM.

So long story short, I wouldn't hesitate to run the Rosten springs.

Phenomenal build by the way!!!

Did the crank dowel mod and installed the timing belt.
Also modified the alternator bracket (AC/PS delete) and measured for belt length. I am missing some bolts, those are on order at VW now and will be picked up later this week. Just about everything is done on the motor, so its time for me to go shopping for pipes and flanges  :)
Today I ordered an external oil cooler (with thermostat) too, because things tend to get hot in the back of my bus. Just another precaution for durability  :)

A quick update here, I am in the progress of fitting the new motor.
I will get into the details later, but here are the key ingredients:
Custom twin scroll manifold is almost done, needs final welding on the motor flange side and overall planing of the flanges. I am working on the wastegates right now.
I installed the motor on a new support bar and connected everything. It started for the first time today and everything seems good.
I use a genuine RS4 maf with this setup and a 89mm K&N filter. We'll see how much issues this will cause later, maybe I need to fabricate some small airstack as I cant put more pipe in between filter and maf.. thats all for later concern, now I am focussing on the wategates and downpipe :-)

The first couple of km's have been succesfull, after fixing some oil leaks on the external cooler and replacing my brand new thermostat (it didnt open  :o). maybe I am jumping to conclusions, but it looks like the turbo spools at around 3200rpm! I havent given it full throttle yet, I am just driving it around a bit to run in the pistonrings. I loaded a base map for now, so I dont need to worry about limp mode on the next drive. Fuel trims with the new maf are fine so far!
I finished the routing of my new exhaust, still no wastegate dumps in it but I'll get to that. First I want to finish all welding on the exhaust so far but I ran out of argon. Below is a picture of how it currently looks, it is a full 3" pipe with an absorption muffler, this goes into a valve and out of the right tip. Before the valve there is a 2.5" that tees off into my old magnaflow muffler wich I converted to single in-single out (I deleted the original 3"inlet, so it now has to pass through 2.5" pipe only). Both pipes exit in a 4" tip  :) I am very curious about how it will sound, and I hope to have enough silencer for cruising now. I tested the valve tonight but it doesnt silence much yet... But that is because the exhaust between the downpipe and valve is only tacked together  ;)
Here is also a small video of the first drive (only downpipe installed). Note cheering 1-year-old son in the back seat on the first clip  ;D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVo-5SYjOYA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVo-5SYjOYA)

i love this project!

i dont think that tigwelding a tacked exhaust with all the soot and grime will be fun

I agree with the rest of the crowd! This project is awesome! ;)

Keep up the good work!

Welding the tacked and grimed exhaust (with partial reused stainless pipes from the old exhaust) was a challenge indeed, and not too pretty. But I got it glued together eventually without it leaking. Good cleaning before welding helps a lot.
Well so I did a couple of runs, used it to daily to my job and done near 1000km on the engine now. There was nothing alarming when I removed the run-in oil, no metallic stuff. I did have some issues already, one leaking gas filter  :o (it touched some clamp and slowly grinded its way through, not linked to this new motor install though) and a faulty n75!
Yesterday I was logging to set up KFURL (load is following perfect but req boost is off) and I had throttle cut at 5000 rpm. I just drove it home in limp and found out that the turbo had its first big boy boost... I maxed out the 3 bar map, so well over 30psi  :P One of the gates had a small leak, a screw came loose on the diaphragm "hat" and was bouncing around inside, no damage though. But after fixing this (LOCTITE EVERYWHERE) and boost testing the system, the gates still wouldnt open! I found the N75 leaking into the TIP real bad, if I blocked it with my finger the gates would open right away. Time for a new n75... I put a straight connector between the lines for now, curious how boost responds now. Before it failed I would have around 1.1 bar boost at 4000rpm, creeping to 1.3. Airflow is 276g/s at 5800rpm, so she flows alright  :)
I still have LPG injector left, its running a little rich up top. I am confident I can make it to 350hp without any problems with the current setup so perfect for low boost. I am running the k03 timing map still, with zero pull. I hope to feed in a bit more timing under load today with the emulator, if the boost control is functioning properly...

Here is a small video that I made when I finished the exhaust to show the valve sound difference!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0LA0w_Dkco (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0LA0w_Dkco)

Allrighty, small update.
Engine is still running ok, having issues with intake temps. I am around 10-15 degrees above ambient on a cruise, and saw a massive temperature increase under load. I think the radiator is not up to the task, so after I try some more ducting I might need to change over to a bigger (or better) radiator.
I have done a little dyno testing some time ago, but performance is hindered by the intake temps. It did 274HP at 7200rpm, intake temps at the start of the run around 40 degrees C and ending around 80! After the testing we figured it may have been caused by my screamers, they are under the intake and there is not much airflow at the rear of the van with the dyno fan pointed at the radiators in the front  :o Turbo spools right at 3600 rpm and max torque of 290NM was reached at 4100rpm. I had to stop the testing because of a failed coil, in the final power run it misfired at 5300rpm and coil died the next run. A little disappointing power figures, but this was still with crappy afr and no changes to timing. Before the dyno test I put in softer wastegate springs, but unfortunately I could not make over 1.4 bar boost at 80% dc, so as soon as I got home I re-installed the 1.2 bar springs. I havent turned up the boost yet, I need to get intake temps under control as I would expect close to ambient on cruise. I routed both wastegates into the downpipe today, so dyno testing should be better next time. Still it makes for a really fun drive to work and it is already plenty fast for a brick-shaped 1980's campervan  ;D will follow up!

The bus has been inside the garage for most of the year due to a much needed body resto.  :-[
I have been way too busy with work to do any serious tuning or reading even on Nefmoto for that matter, but I intend to get back on it soon. I have found my last log from back in februari, after this I made a coolant tank for the AWIC system and optimized the pump flow. Havent been able to test the performance after this, but it should be a bit better.
Currently I am doing bodywork, but I have also refitted the entire front suspension with powerflex bushings, fitted a Cayenne Turbo brake setup all around and modified the hubs to suit 5x130pcd. I have a GTX3076r gen II on order to see if this causes a mayor difference in spool. For me, the engine has been spooling so good (early) that I would not even mind to see a bit slower spool and be able to keep better efficiency up top. To clarify, in the log you will see 1.3 bar at 4000rpm when the gates open but this is in 2nd gear. In 4th gear I have seen 1 bar as early as 3200rpm. I will compare both with real data before I decide which one will stay on  ;D
I have also fitted a new tank with larger outlet, a new pump and 1000cc injectors. The 550cc and pump that was in it where maxed out already at 6000rpm and 1.5 bar boost as you can see in the log. It nets roughly 325g/s at 7500rpm.
So to end this message, here is the latest photo of how the drivers side looks now (all new welded panels unpainted but you can also see the wheels and brakes).
(https://scontent-amt2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67940408_3166113866739818_5259594582491922432_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_oc=AQlEaEszAY_RPHh1siFK3CTOhW89aao4kdKbWUExpMzV7kPWsXwmRoP9DkH9L-7PRBk&_nc_ht=scontent-amt2-1.xx&oh=97cd759b26641337985d245614c5ccca&oe=5E10C393)

And one small video that I found on my phone (from last year). I promise that there will be more content when I have her al set up again...
https://www.youtube.com/embed/iIGGvnJbPII (https://www.youtube.com/embed/iIGGvnJbPII)

So I will post again when things are ready for the street again  8)

Does he still drive?