Can you describe the exact method you used? How much pressure you used. What you blocked off and where you put pressure in?
Put together a boost leak tester with a few parts.
The way I've been boost leak testing is as follows:
1) disconnect pancake valve
2) plug off pancake valve inlet on the Y pipe
3) remove intake and install the boost leak tester
4) loosen / remove oil cap
5) apply 10-15 psi, shut off the valve and listen for leaks.
it eventually bleeds down, but during the time that the system is pressurized I hear absolutely nothing.
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I also tested the MAF harness and this is what I got:
Since it is a hitachi, I will reference the table on the right.
With the key in the ignition, I am getting the following:
- 5V when testing pins 1 and pin 3.
- 3.48V when testing pins 2 and 3.
Is this normal? I thought pin 2 was the 12V line... or does the car have to be running for it to read 12v?