|
Blazius
|
 |
« Reply #60 on: November 07, 2018, 07:56:42 AM »
|
|
|
I filled up combustion chambers with coolant, and as expected they did not leak a drop except for the one with the bent valve. Now, the issue is that bolt broke in the exhaust cam, and there is no way I am getting it out from it , second 2 lifters are stuck , and I have no idea how to remove, them but there is no easy and cheap way to do this, At minimum I need an exhaust cam, maybe an intake cam, and 1 intake valve , that would be almost as much as an used motor... even if I go to junkyard they would ask me ridicolous price for 1 cam, most likely , what to do  ? edit: some more pics https://imgur.com/a/fW3l5eLPS: Thank you guys for help so far, I appreciate it a lot , cheers |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 07, 2018, 07:59:23 AM by Blazius »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
mdz
Full Member
Karma: +12/-1
 Offline
Posts: 73
|
|
« Reply #61 on: November 07, 2018, 04:08:11 PM »
|
|
|
Broken bolts usually can be removed either by welding a nut on them or using the right tools (again, don't know right name in english, but it's something like reverse thread tool - drill a hole in the bolt and use a tool to turn it out) , but it's not worth it in this case, cam lobe is damaged anyway. It's quite hard to recommend what to do due to different part availability/prices/budget in different countries. I'd look for complete head from any 1.8 20v engine which comes up cheapest.  Valves are available new aftermarket, but then again, depends on price/availability on your side. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
_nameless
|
|
« Reply #62 on: November 07, 2018, 04:28:57 PM »
|
|
|
Yes I have extracted broken bolts /studs with a welded nut. Or a reverse twist drill bit. If that doesn't run it out you could use an extractor at that point. Normally they back out easy
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Giving your mom a tuneup
|
|
|
|
Blazius
|
|
« Reply #63 on: November 08, 2018, 02:04:21 AM »
|
|
|
Broken bolts usually can be removed either by welding a nut on them or using the right tools (again, don't know right name in english, but it's something like reverse thread tool - drill a hole in the bolt and use a tool to turn it out) , but it's not worth it in this case, cam lobe is damaged anyway. It's quite hard to recommend what to do due to different part availability/prices/budget in different countries. I'd look for complete head from any 1.8 20v engine which comes up cheapest. Valves are available new aftermarket, but then again, depends on price/availability on your side. Yes I have extracted broken bolts /studs with a welded nut. Or a reverse twist drill bit. If that doesn't run it out you could use an extractor at that point. Normally they back out easy
Eh, welding is not something I've done but I can ask my dad and see if he can weld in such tiny space, idk  Also the intake cam is the one thats damaged a bit, the exhaust cam should be fine apart from the sheared keyway and the remainder of the bolt in it,and the head too EXCEPT the 2 lifters that you can see on the pics are mega stuck , I dont know how to get them out, I tried magnet, rubber mallet/hammer, etc. I think I am gonna try heating it up with a blowtorch or something and see if it comes out, but I am not sure If I want to run a head where the lifters can get stuck potentially. I was looking for turbo motor yesterday, approached a guy too , but If I am only going to use the head I dont think its worth spending 33% more than an NA block, as you said I was looking for it for the pistons and crank but found out that 1.8t cranks(most) are cast just like NA ones so, rip that. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
mdz
Full Member
Karma: +12/-1
Offline
Posts: 73
|
|
« Reply #64 on: November 08, 2018, 02:48:47 AM »
|
|
|
Yes, 058 cranks are the same on n/a and turbo as well as rods, but they differ from year to year or something like that (small end width)
You can try to drill a smal hole in the lifter and screw a wooden screw there. Then you will have something to pull with.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
_nameless
|
|
« Reply #65 on: November 08, 2018, 03:47:00 AM »
|
|
|
06a are forged crank and pistons. I wouldn't be too worried about bottom end vs bottom end tho. I feel at this point your best bet is to use your current bottom end withba replacement head complete. It's not worth risking a stuck lifter bucket and habe it crack. It would be quicker and easier in the long run. I'd still get a head gasket spacer too. I keep bringing it up because on lowish octane fuel you're gunna have such low timing values
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Giving your mom a tuneup
|
|
|
|
Blazius
|
|
« Reply #66 on: November 08, 2018, 06:31:44 AM »
|
|
|
06a are forged crank and pistons. I wouldn't be too worried about bottom end vs bottom end tho. I feel at this point your best bet is to use your current bottom end withba replacement head complete. It's not worth risking a stuck lifter bucket and habe it crack. It would be quicker and easier in the long run. I'd still get a head gasket spacer too. I keep bringing it up because on lowish octane fuel you're gunna have such low timing values
Yup, thats whats gonna be, I'm going to get an ARG block for around 170 usd , possibly lower, and replace the head , hopefully its in half decent state. Also I measured the HG thickness it should be around 1.25mm , so I am going to get a 1.35mm ( from AJUSA only they listed thickness apart from Elring ) , and I never heard about HG spacer? I dont know If I can find such thing around here :/ ? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
_nameless
|
|
« Reply #67 on: November 08, 2018, 06:45:12 AM »
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Giving your mom a tuneup
|
|
|
|
Blazius
|
|
« Reply #68 on: November 08, 2018, 09:05:50 AM »
|
|
|
Heh, I dont think that is available here I found this tho https://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Audi-1-8T-Tuning-Zylinderkopfdichtung-Verdichtungsreduzierung-Seat-Skoda-20V/200941304839?hash=item2ec908fc07:g:Do0AAOSwPWRZUlXW:rk:4:pf:0 but I really dont have the money to shell out on this right now, specially if later on I wanna upgrade conrods and have to replace it again, also people said that thicker headgasket is a bandaid fix for lower compression also , the chance for HG failure is higher, what do you think about that ? So for now I have got my eyes on an ARG engine for 170 usd, or an AEB for 245 usd. I dont think its worth paying that much more for the turbo one, with all the accessories ( timing belt , waterpump, HG , 3000 gaskets, its gonna cost me a fair bit ) |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
_nameless
|
|
« Reply #69 on: November 08, 2018, 09:23:01 AM »
|
|
|
With that t04e turbo you won't have issues with con rods. You can make 350whp 270 tq but up high in the rev range. The only thing is recommend is opening up the top and middle ring for thermal expansion. Because your making peak tq higher in the rpm range the duration time of tq is less then it would be of you made peak tq at 3500rpm or less. Small frame turbos make torque like a light switch (off and on).
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Giving your mom a tuneup
|
|
|
|
|
|
Blazius
|
|
« Reply #71 on: November 08, 2018, 10:18:32 AM »
|
|
|
With that t04e turbo you won't have issues with con rods. You can make 350whp 270 tq but up high in the rev range. The only thing is recommend is opening up the top and middle ring for thermal expansion. Because your making peak tq higher in the rpm range the duration time of tq is less then it would be of you made peak tq at 3500rpm or less. Small frame turbos make torque like a light switch (off and on).
Hm, what do you mean by top and middle ring ? Also that passat is sick lol, sounds like a tractor at idle lol |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
_nameless
|
|
« Reply #72 on: November 08, 2018, 10:43:22 AM »
|
|
|
the piston ring end gap. one of the biggest reasons theyll toss a rod is from thermal expansion and rings binding on the cylinder walls. when this happens the piston wedges in place and the result is rods bending. opening the ring eng gap a bit will prevent this from being an issue. on lowish boost it wouldnt be a problem but its still somthing to consider
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Giving your mom a tuneup
|
|
|
|
Blazius
|
|
« Reply #73 on: November 08, 2018, 11:02:00 AM »
|
|
|
the piston ring end gap. one of the biggest reasons theyll toss a rod is from thermal expansion and rings binding on the cylinder walls. when this happens the piston wedges in place and the result is rods bending. opening the ring eng gap a bit will prevent this from being an issue. on lowish boost it wouldnt be a problem but its still somthing to consider
Ahh, understood and opening to what degree to exactly, also if If im planning on running higher power, I would get conrods anyway, and swapping over the pistons from the new motor, which in the end to looks to be the AEB one, it also comes with a flywheel (prolly shot like crazy) and some other shit. EDIT: So it's 100% I can use AEB head with a N/a block then ? i'm just making sure. |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: November 08, 2018, 11:13:54 AM by Blazius »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
_nameless
|
|
« Reply #74 on: November 08, 2018, 12:29:45 PM »
|
|
|
Yes the heads are interchangeable. You can put a 20v head on just about any vw 4 cylinder bottom. Only difference is older blocks are missing the 3 main oil returns on the back of the head. In your case you have nothing to worry about it's a direct swap. Stock end gap is normally 0.00015" I open that up to0.00035".
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Giving your mom a tuneup
|
|
|
|
