This setup is definitely conditional, the car is not a daily any more and in no way is this "safe for a customer", I am with you on this one.


As you can see the car runs rich at any point, so EGT control not really needed. TABGTA is set to 550 C pretty much in the whole range to avoid intervention.

So given there's octane booster always available, can the ignition timing be increased to let's say 13-14-15, as long as KR doesn't pull timing? What would be the highest ignition one would go with octane booster if it doesn't retard? I've had a setup with big port head where it ran 20 degrees @ 2 bar. CR was 9:1 and it didn't pull timing, I always found that weird.

I didnt say 'awesome' or something like that
And personally am always aiming at least at 10 @mid for the same reasons
But
I saw much worse timing on a stock cr running past map pressure and those cars living for years (not at track i believe)
And then there is a community sayin 'R*vo tune rocks! and you just cant do the things like them blah blah' so nah guys, take your cookie with 5 deg timing and no worries if it blows. Youve got what you want 
Yes its stupid. Yes i know that and ill never done that in my personal setup. Its a choice between stupidity and a budget, not a philosophy 

What is hilarious is how 9/10s of what you write is useless passive aggressive shit, but luckily that 1/10th is useful and people put up with you You remind me of Sheldon Cooper Thanks for the input though, now please stop.

You're lol-ing and calling me ignorant, I call your writing useless. Notice a difference? Who is personally attacking who here?

I saw a log from you few posts up with a -6 degrees at spool, I am not sure how you have the nerve to call my tune shit with such an abominable results of your own.

EGT protection is off, CR is too high, EGT is high, do E85 ... what else are you gonna bitch about? It sounds to me your whole tuning style is of a little scared pussy that doesn't have the balls to make some power. If I tell you I run mafless now you're probably shit your pants, aren't you?

Let's stop this please, we are ruining the dude's topic. Unless you have something useful to add, please just don't reply. Thanks!

1. A few posts up. You mean ten years ago? Were were you ten years ago? In school?
2. It was specifically posted to illustrate the point of what happens when you have too high CR on an engine. That literal graph was there to illustrate the point.
3. You can't even read - at spool there's 20 deg in that graph, -5 degrees is at 30 psi. Do you think the car was tuned to run that boost or timing after? Of course not. The boost was backed the fuck down. It was a short linearization run for KFLDIMX/KFLDRL in that example.

You seem to think 3 deg is good ignition timing though.
I don't "bitch" about anything. I don't give a fuck how you run your car. But I put my words in here so that other people who might hit this thread see how not to tune.
I've probably made more power than you will make in your lifetime, considering I did it full time on a dyno for 10 years.

LOL at mafless comment. I am the one who made speed density for M2.3.2 in 2010, and I did the SD mod 8 years go for ME7.
I don't run my cars in limp mode on alpha/n though, because it drives like shit.

You're just a nobody getting called out on your bullshit.
From your posts it is clear you don't know what you are doing, but you have a big mouth at the same time. Shitty combination.

We don't know what EGT it reaches and how quick, because there's no logs. So it's just your random claims without any basis for verification.

What is shit?
Hardware wise: the fact that you ended up with an engine that is only good for race fuel or E85, because even with octane booster it's unsafe, but you want to use it on pump fuel. Why? Who knows. Maybe the 9.5 pistons were on special on eBay.
Tuning wise: You come here and say hey, it's so cool to run 5 deg of ignition at 7000 rpm. Well it's not, and it's going to blow up if you hold it for any reasonable amount of time.
If I put it on my dyno, it won't even make a single dyno run before something melts with that timing. Seen plenty of hotshots like you who come in to my dyno to measure their hot shit, it blows up and they pay the cleaning fee. "But on the street it was fine!!111", yes when you push it WOT for <8 seconds it usually is...

If you were a normal person you would just put E85 or race fuel into it, and you would do just fine.
Maybe dual 1.2mm jets with pure meth could help you a little. Not that it's reasonable either.
But none of that is pump fuel anymore. Octane booster isn't pump fuel either.

But you are not a normal person, because you are trying to somehow say that what you did was right.
It's not, it will never be right, and it's precisely the reason this thread exists.

I mean everyone here with any experience can see that, because half of what you post has nothing to do with reality, no investigation needed here.

You got plenty of opinions, especially after you said "I don't need EGT control"  
In your screens you have KR even with the current timing.

You are doing super short pulls.

Try to see what happens with timing and KR on a dyno with at least a 13-14 second long pull.
You won't be able to run that timing, and you will most likely have a chain knock event where the timing will go negative, since it'll get too hot, and it's a chain reaction from there.
Hence me saying it's not safe to run that boost with standard fuel, octane booster or not.

On E85 it would be fine, on MS109 also. But not on this pump+.
Anyway, I think that much is clear. But of course according to you everyone who does not want to melt their shit is a "pussy"
I just never chose 9+ CR for more than 200 hp/l on MPI engines, unless they were going to be running ethanol.

It's exactly the choice between making power absolutely safely and reliably or making less power without any safety for 6-7sec runs.
Why? To save 0.2L/100km fuel? Really?