honestly IMO if you have a road car that you are tuning yourself without detcans and dyno , you should probably not touch factory knock settings ever, pulling false knock few degrees is always a better thing than not not pulling IMO. With different fuels and stuff maybe you can mess with the recovery but yeah..

This why i found this old topic - i don't change blindly all maps, first trying to understand how it works. It's a little bit strange for me, that only H rods replacement couses more knocking (engine was build responsibly - every clearances in OEM spec, no mechanical issues after 15000km). Maybe its absolutely normal?

If the engine was rebuilt properly and the head came off then also the head was skimmed and possibly the block decked, so the result is possibly a slightly higher compression ratio.

Just to chime in on the knock v issue.

there was some mention of high knock v on cyl 3.
and I think a lot of people see this.
this is on 1.8t.

I have that as well.
my cyl 3 is always way higher.

I honestly believe this is because that is where the turbo is!
Think about it. Your k0xx turbo is tucked right up against cylinder three.
so that red hot exhaust turbine is cooking right next to where that chamber is trying to make power.
Those temps are going to interfere with the combustion for sure.
Probably makes it much more knock prone than the other cylinders.

I'm going to try and stick some heat shielding inbetween the block and the turbo and seei f that effects things.
Maybe there is power to be gained there.

Disregard what this guy says, has no clue about anything just types a lot.

The issue with cyl 3 is that they have the highest EGT. This is internal, not external. EGT is affected by a bunch of factors, but distribution of air is the biggest one, and also location in the engine block affects it a little.
If you look at what the stock intake manifold looks like, it is clear that cylinder 2 and 3 are going to get the most air, and cylinder 3 is going to run the hottest.
Exhaust backpressure affects it as well. So you have a combination of intake manifold and exhaust manifold shapes. The better the path of the air to the intake manifold and the better the flow on the exhaust for a cylinder, the more actual cylinder charge it gets and the higher the dynamic compression is - hence more knock.

Suggesting that some kind of infrared emissions from turbo affect EGT is plain and simply retarded.

You can adjust the FZN and FZWN maps at higher RPM's to give a little more fuel to a cylinder and cool it down more, this will reduce knock.
IIRC they were firing order, too lazy to look up.

Hi, i'm back to topic with a few questions. Recently stroked my engine 1,8t>95,5x82,5 and sometimes see (fake?) knock at low loads/rpm in one cylinder. Decided not to mess up with knock maps without proof what it's really not knock.
1. I'm going to make detcans. What is the best option for 1,8t block - two hoses from 2 different points on block, or 1hose/point is enough?
2.If i leave knock sensors in original place, so where best location for screwing detcan "sensor"?
3.If i confirm, what its not knock but just engine noise, how to set kfkef(x) properly? Just raise maps still ecu didin't see knock? But maps for all cylinders different - how to determine which map I should increase more than other maps?

This is exactly what i done. Retarded timing(tried adjust from 1 degree to 10 degree) doesnt help in some areas, still pulling timing like before. Also tried add timing(increase values in kfzw), and got less timing pull. Complete opposite of what it should be.

Thanks for post, now i should read more about that you wrote. Just want to confirm: rkr -> RKRMX(1)N, kek -> KFKEF(x) ?

Update. And another question after reading FR. If in understand right, when CWKRREF=1, B_krldy and B_krndy aren't included into knock detection at all. Also didin't find any disadvantages of CWKRREF=1, it is also recommended in FR (for automatic transmisions).