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Author Topic: Nefmoto community project: Stage1 1.8t ME7.5 A4 (8E0909518AK-0003)  (Read 569546 times)
cgramme
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« Reply #600 on: August 22, 2016, 07:01:26 PM »

Added my first and second nefmoto_stage1_tuned log.
« Last Edit: August 22, 2016, 07:05:23 PM by cgramme » Logged
nyet
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« Reply #601 on: August 22, 2016, 07:28:26 PM »

what are your ltfts
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cgramme
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« Reply #602 on: August 22, 2016, 07:59:34 PM »

what are your ltfts

Update*
I just reset my codes and went for a 45min drive keeping an eye on fuel trims. At idle my stft went down to -14, ltft = 0 just after reset. While driving at WOT stft consistently goes up to +25, If I drive at part throttle stft = mid teens. When I got back to the house the ltft read -3.9. A few months ago I did a boost leak test (20psi) and didn't find any leaks. Possibly fuel injectors? Vac leak? I've felt like the car runs slightly like a turd ever since I bought it.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2016, 11:07:15 AM by cgramme » Logged
royce5950
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« Reply #603 on: August 26, 2016, 01:32:42 PM »

I've felt like the car runs slightly like a turd ever since I bought it.

When you say it seems like it has ran like a turd ever since you bought it, how big of a poo snake are we talkin here?

Just off the top of my head I'd say try these things. Some of them may be obvious and its probably already been taken care of but anyways...

See if you can convince a buddy to let you borrow his coils for a couple minutes just so you guys can go for a quick drive around the neighborhood... You could definitely experience notable losses in power if your coils are on their way out, but they still have just enough juice left in them to not trigger a DTC...

Also are you logging overall misfire count? this would tell you right off whether or not you might have 1 or more weak coils...

Next obviously, have you done a tuneup since you bought the car? Spark plugs are super cheap if you haven't yet. Go get some copper NGKs... Also oil? You gotta feed her some of that delicious liquid GOLD! nectar of the gods!! Full Synthetic!! (I use castrol EDGE 0w - 40 "European Blend" its spec for our engines but depending on your climate you may want something with a bit more weight. Thats just my spring time/summer time jam)

What kind of filter are you running? stock air box? stock airbox with K&N? swiss cheese mod? cotton gauze cone filter? Round black colored piece of foam with a revo logo spraypainted on it?... Whatever it is give it a look see, if its long life and washable like most k&n and AEM dryflow filters give it a good cleaning...

I could go on forever... Long story short rule out any possibilities of hardware issues then move onto software. Same process goes for troubleshooting computer related issues.

Good luck man
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cgramme
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« Reply #604 on: August 28, 2016, 12:39:24 AM »

When you say it seems like it has ran like a turd ever since you bought it, how big of a poo snake are we talkin here?

It only runs like a small poo snake... I've just had a sneaking suspicion of a vacuum leak ever since I bought it. Turns out my EGR/combination valve for the SAI was stuck open, which I found a couple days ago. A SAI block off plate is in the mail as we speak. I've replaced spark plugs, coil packs, all fluids. I had to rewire the coil pack wires because they were super corroded and left me stranded on the side of the road. I'm about to do a large vacuum delete as well as SAI delete in a few days as seen in this thread: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/235106-DIY-B6-1-8t-Vacuum-line-and-Check-Valve-removal-simplification. As far as my air filter goes I have deleted my stock air box and am running a k&n directly on my MAF with a custom heat shield. I'm pretty sure I'll have the poo snake flushed in a few days... Thanks for taking the time to help me out!
« Last Edit: August 28, 2016, 09:46:58 PM by cgramme » Logged
nyet
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« Reply #605 on: August 28, 2016, 11:55:54 AM »

Did you recalibrate for no airbox?
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ME7.1 tuning guide
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Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
cgramme
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« Reply #606 on: August 28, 2016, 05:19:47 PM »

Did you recalibrate for no airbox?

I haven't recalibrated anything for the lack of an airbox yet, I actually didn't think it would make much of a difference. I just removed all the SAI stuff and am going to reroute the air filter where the SAI pump was located because I'm still getting mad IATs. How would I go about making adjustments for my intake setup, or what variables can I look at to tune it correctly? MAF adjustments? Thanks for the help guys!
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nyet
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« Reply #607 on: August 28, 2016, 09:54:39 PM »

It is nearly impossible. The lack of an airbox makes MAF readings very unpredictable and non linear.
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ME7.1 tuning guide
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum
Trim heatmap tool

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
vwaudiguy
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« Reply #608 on: August 29, 2016, 12:22:06 AM »

The lack of an airbox makes MAF readings very unpredictable and non linear.

And I think of how many cars I see with the airfilter on the end of the maf open in the bay.
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"If you have a chinese turbo, that you are worried is going to blow up when you floor it, then LOL."
cgramme
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« Reply #609 on: August 29, 2016, 01:22:15 AM »

I still have the stock airbox if I end up needing to put that back on I suppose. I have a problem with trying to free up as much space as possible in the engine compartment and I hope it doesn't come down to putting the plastic box back in. I'm going to do some tests... After I finish removing/simplifying some emissions systems this week I will take another log, if the log doesn't yield good A/F I will put the box back on and log again. I am/was planning on adding an aprox. 12 inch long curved pipe to the MAF and relocating the filter where the old SAI pump was. I have hopes of the tube adding some stability to the airflow and consistency to the MAF readings. Lets keep in mind I am having a rough start due to (I think) leaky injector/s, which I am replacing with some EV14 550s in a couple weeks. My cylinder 3 knock voltage seems consistently high so it might point at that injector. Either way, I am going to solve this problem as soon as possible and continue thrashing for the stage2 1.8t thread. I feel like this is getting way off subject for what this thread was made for...
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mdz
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« Reply #610 on: September 13, 2016, 04:11:55 AM »

Just finished reading this awesome thread from beginning and it seems everyone is using wideband ECUs. Can I go the same way having a narrowband ecu in my car or there's different approach when tuning NB's?
I do have a wideband ecu laying around but there's few things (rear O2, SAI, CAN reception e.t.c) that needs to be disabled before i can use it in my car.  Roll Eyes
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adam-
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« Reply #611 on: September 13, 2016, 05:05:05 AM »

You can't just put a wideband ECU into a NB car; it doesn't work like that.
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mdz
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« Reply #612 on: September 13, 2016, 06:30:30 AM »

I know. Engine is swapped into 1994 Audi 80 and I made wiring as it was for wideband (with correct O2 sensor connector and camshaft changeover valve prewired) just running nb ECU, nb O2 sensor and "static" camshaft tensioner at the moment.
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mdz
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« Reply #613 on: October 03, 2016, 11:33:09 AM »

So I decided to give it a go, took my own ECUs bin, modified LDRXN and LAMFA tables/axis using this threads v7 file as an example. Car does go noticeably better but I ran into an issue I've been trying to chase down with limited success - it does not rev all the way to limit (6700rpm). It might not be a big deal since it's my daily car and I'm not revving it hard, but I'm very interested to find out why it does that. Revs doesn't drop or anything, it just don't go past ~5,5k rpm.
My first idea after reading this thread was injectors, but after looking at log, EGTs was below 850C and IDC was ~80% so that looks like won't be an issue. Since ignition system is converted to COP type coils, I took a look at dwell time map (KFSZT). I rember Prj saying 2-2.5 ms is good for these coils but at 13-14v @6000 rpm it was 1.3ms in my ECU. For quick test I copied over KFSZT map from AWT engine which has these coils as standard and went for testdrive. Car accelerated more freely than before all the way to limit. I thought I'm done with the issue until today when I went for another run to log it. Again ~5.5k rpm and no more.
Anyone please can take a look at log, what I've done wrong or not done at all? I'm out of ideas at the moment.
Engine is almost stock with some modifications:
- 058 1.8T with stock internals and stock turbo
- mildly ported small port head
- 50mm intake, FMIC, stock throttlebody and manifold, stock injectors and fpr
- 70mm downpipe, no cats, 50 or 55mm rest of exhaust (will change it to 60mm after drivetrain swap)
- Stock size MAF from different engine (AWT) with MLHFM map copied over
- COP coil conversion with NGK BKR6E plugs
- N75 valve from 2.0TFSI (because it was 12eur for new Pierburg)
- Crankcase breather system is all new with some modifications like 06A valve cover with breather outlet and oil catch can returning to intake just like stock.
Head and block surfaces were skimmed, but I used stock thickness headgasket if that changes something. Using only 98e petrol.
Sorry for such long post but I wanted to describe as much as I can hoping someone can help me to solve this so I can continue with tuning.
Thanks!  Smiley
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nyet
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« Reply #614 on: October 03, 2016, 11:38:04 AM »

You're hitting one of the soft rev limiters for some reason.
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ME7.1 tuning guide
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum
Trim heatmap tool

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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