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ddillenger
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« Reply #15 on: February 01, 2015, 06:29:47 PM »
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That error is pretty self explanatory-lol.
Are you sure the serial matches?
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ozzake
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« Reply #16 on: February 01, 2015, 06:37:43 PM »
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yes, just checked the serial number and its the same one as the Galletto program, Is there a process for finding an interface or is it just gone? I plugged the ecu into the car, hooked up the laptop to the port with Galletto open. found my original .bin file. Then I jumpered pin 24 to ground while my wife cycled the key on, wait 5 seconds, release the jumper, then press the write button. Am I possibly just doing something out of order?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #17 on: February 02, 2015, 02:35:32 PM »
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The process sounds fine, although sometimes in-car is tricky. What cable are you using?
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316LV
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« Reply #18 on: February 02, 2015, 05:00:17 PM »
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D is right, sometimes in-car bootmode is very tricky. If you have either a computer power supply or 12v wall adapter then you can make a bench rig as detailed here on the site. I don't use mine much, but its pure gold to have when needed.
Also, try varying the amount of time you ground pin 24. Two, three, four seconds, etc. I had one that took many attempts. Shortening the time the pin was grounded got it in bootmode finally... Sounds like your procedure is correct otherwise. Best of luck.
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Go ahead and give me negative karma... I don't care if you like what I post princess.
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ozzake
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« Reply #19 on: February 02, 2015, 06:16:34 PM »
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Ok, so tonight I found some more hope. I got my new ecu and heard the car run again, for 2 seconds before the immobilizer killed it. I had to change my com port on the cable to use vcds to try to eliminate the immo (which I cant do with the free version) but when I tried to use Galletto on the old ecu after that it actually tries to work, but says I'm not in boot mode. I've tried jumpering every way I can think of and then some, the only way I havn't tried is holding it on shorter amount of time (because I just seen that idea when I logged on). At least I'm making progress in the right direction!
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ozzake
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« Reply #20 on: February 02, 2015, 08:24:57 PM »
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Update: I got sick of dealing with the cold (its 6 degrees outside) Drug the battery in the house, built a really iffy bench setup with large amounts of electrical tape and alligator clips and got it to boot. I reloaded the original .bin that I took out of it and put it back in the car. It starts, runs, and drives, but if I shut it off it won't start again. Unplug the ECU wait 20 seconds, plug it back in and it'll start... once. Whats going on? I don't have an immobilizer light and when it doesn't start again It won't communicate with the laptop, its like the computer just dies.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #21 on: February 02, 2015, 08:35:00 PM »
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You have a checksum error!
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ozzake
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« Reply #22 on: February 02, 2015, 08:40:16 PM »
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I certainly do, I just realized I emailed my wife the original file and then modified the file on tunerpro. So it had the same name as the original, but I hadn't ran it through the me7check yet. I just checked it and found 6 errors. Good news! Tomorrow I'll be back in business, and while it was running I parked it in my heated garage so no more suffering. Thanks so much for helping me everyone! I feel like the weight of the world is off my shoulders after I heard it start back up  |
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kingkhalilz
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« Reply #23 on: February 03, 2015, 02:17:28 PM »
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Good Deal for reference, what com port does galleto want??
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nyet
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« Reply #24 on: February 03, 2015, 02:44:52 PM »
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IIRC galletto talks native usb, not com port.
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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ozzake
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« Reply #25 on: February 03, 2015, 05:56:56 PM »
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ok so tonight I fixed my checksums in my .bin file and tried to flash it back on with Nef, same story as the first time at 5% it failed. Now its back out of the car and on my bench and it will not go into boot mode. I'm so ready to end its life!! I've tried everything from 2 seconds to 15 seconds on pin 24 and ground. I've checked and I'm on the same com port I was last night, cable serial numbers match galletto. What can I be doing wrong?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2015, 06:47:27 PM »
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ok so tonight I fixed my checksums in my .bin file and tried to flash it back on with Nef, same story as the first time at 5% it failed. Now its back out of the car and on my bench and it will not go into boot mode. I'm so ready to end its life!! I've tried everything from 2 seconds to 15 seconds on pin 24 and ground. I've checked and I'm on the same com port I was last night, cable serial numbers match galletto. What can I be doing wrong?
Are you changing the baud to 38400 after connecting with nef? I think you're not if the flash is failing. |
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ozzake
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« Reply #27 on: February 03, 2015, 07:11:00 PM »
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I guess I wasn't aware I was supposed to. So after I connect, I change it to 34400 then hit full write flash? Also is there any place to get definition files for a 12v vr6? I think the one I got was bad, I finally got it to write and the car would start, but it did some very strange things that are unrelated to what I had changed. my air bag light came on, and whenever I turn the key forward my flashers would come on for about 30 seconds. I'm back to the bench just trying to get it back to normal now.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #28 on: February 03, 2015, 07:17:36 PM »
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Lowering the baud rate makes flashing flaky cars more reliable. As for an xdf, not really. What are you trying to do? Whats your ecu number?
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
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ozzake
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« Reply #29 on: February 03, 2015, 07:24:22 PM »
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I have a 2000 golf GTI VR6, ME 7.1 according to VCDS. 29f400BB layout. I want to remove SAI, remove rear o2, and try to get rid of the big dead spot from where I removed the shift changeover valve. I'm also planning bigger cams this spring, and I'm not sure if its possible, but I would also like to get rid of the stability control without having the light on the dash.
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