NefMoto

Hey guys, any help coding the ecu or flashing new software  for the manual conversion would be appreciated. I’d be willing to pay for your services.

My little experience flashing me7.1 has no rein on me7.1.1, but would like to learn. 

If you’re interested please reach out. Thanks !

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this project might be dead already... went to read the ecu over bench and cant even connect nef to it.wondering if this ecu is not supported..
b7 s4
8e2910560b

I apologize, should have made sure this ecu was supported by Nef first.

I found this from another thread.


me7info does not support st10, period. It is a totally different CPU.

Even worse, its closed source abandonware.

There are other tools sitting in the nef repo, particularly the swiss army knife tool that could be adapted to st10

Countless tools that exist that can read and write that car thru the port without a problem. Worse case you could use your nefmoto compatible cable and galletto to read it out in boot mode like any other me7 ecu. Sometimes you need to invest more than $15 bucks in flashing hardware.

Thanks brother!!!
I do have a galleto cable, it’s been a bit… I’ll give it a shot and report back
 

Just read an all road me7.1.1 with Galletto in boot mode on the bench no problem.
Figured I give that a test run before I screw something up with the b7 s4 ecu.
After a succeful read on the allroad i had no luck with the b7.
What am I doing wrong here ?

Just read a b6 s4 ecu so I know something else needs to be done.

The b7 most likely has a watchdog that needs to be shorted to allow it to go into boot mode. See picture  

this starting to freak me out haha

tbh not sure what to do with that pic

Again, you can invest more money in tooling and not have to do such sketch stuff. Also, having a proper ecu probes helps when having to jump out solder pads on an ecu. You do not need to use the 1k ohm resistor, you can jump it out directly, done all of this 15+ years ago before investing in real tools, it does work. Nut up.

The boot pin is the one that needs to be shorted on powerup like any other me7 ecu that you have done in the past. You can do it directly off the am29f800 or you can do it from the solder pad in the picture. The other one is showing the cnf1 (watchdog) that needs to be shorted in order to put the ecu in boot mode. The picture is originally from ktag instructions that has automated cnf1 watchdog bypass. You do not have this luxury and needs to be done manually. Cnf1 needs to stay jumped out for the entire reading / writing process. You still need to do the normal boot pin procedure on power up too.   Sequenced correctly you will be able to read out the ecu with galletto  

trying to digest this. jumped out meaning, those 4 solder points to the right need to have a wire soldered to them and then connected together? and for the boot bin needs to be grounded aalong with pin 24 on startup?
 how far off am i ?

i see what yor taking about with the tooling now. nver seen it before.. the drop probes and frame! sick!!!

The boot pin in the picture is the same as the pin 24, it's just another spot you can ground it that is more convenient. The cnf1 needs to be grounded as pictured with the 1k ohm resistor, like I said you do not need to use the resistor. Also, it's totally separate from the boot pin and do not cross ground them you may cause hardware damage   

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240804/5b0c6dfbb64bd6dea7a2317f03b96f97.jpg)

I believe my board is different than the picture.


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Wow.
I’m tripping. It’s not different. That’s the b6 lol.
Have too much shit out.


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I think this might be a better picture ? The picture above looks like there is a resistor connected to 4 points instead on 2
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240804/d2b808972c5023b885462ac7f8210f2b.jpg)


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I had some resistors laying around from building the bench harness.

The green wire is my grounded boot pin
This is correct, leaving the cnf1 resistor on while reading the ECUs(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240804/150772e8c2131ad1f6ed3464c7f70985.jpg)
?


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I had some resistors laying around from building the bench harness.

The green wire is my grounded boot pin
This is correct, leaving the cnf1 resistor on while reading the ECUs(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240804/150772e8c2131ad1f6ed3464c7f70985.jpg)
?


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I had some resistors laying around from building the bench harness.

The green wire is my grounded boot pin
This is correct, leaving the cnf1 resistor on while reading the ECUs(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240804/150772e8c2131ad1f6ed3464c7f70985.jpg)
?


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How’s this look. Green wire is bench harness boot pin. Had some resistors laying around.
Leaving the resistor on the cnf1 pins while doing the read.
 (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240804/26b07d843bbc3d08d4aa0c52651ad294.jpg)


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Have it a shot.
Got a different response from galletto.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240805/b8396de1c308f0706126c456942cb7c0.jpg)


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you have the jumper on the wrong side of the resistor, look at the picture you posted closer 

You are a lucky man.
Your board is very easy to put in bootmode.
Just short these two pads on powerup for 2s. The ECU is now in bootmode.

(https://s4wiki.com/mediawiki/images/6/62/ME7.1.1-bootmode.png)

This is the b6 s4. Ecu.
I was able to get this one in boot mode.
It’s the b7 s4 that’s a bit more involved

Awesome to have more than one solution. Thanks .


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You talking about the jumper needing to be on the left side of the yellow one on the ecu board ?


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This is how I had the jumper, I don’t know what you mean.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240805/0bfe8d7262fb7c1628cd80e43532c689.jpg)


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Possibly the 1kojm resistor is the problem?
Should try without it


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Look at the picture closely and look at how you have it

Also, after power you need to remove the boot pin.

Check the pins you used on the 81-pin connector.
It should be as shown on the picture.
For your ME7.1.1 ECU +12V voltage should be applied to all 3 pins ->3, 62 and 21 !!!

This is how it was hooked up.


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Was able to read b6 s4 ecu with the bench harness.
Id have to look at the harness to see what 81 is doing , not sure I have anything hooked up to that pin or not


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81 is in reference to the big plug not an actual pin number

But all should be gravy and not need to change anything ?


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Mac parallels?

Not on this setup. Straight windows computer


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You’re familiar with this ecu?


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I'm familiar yes.  But a couple of years ago I teamviewered into your Mac and was wondering if you were still trying that. Or did you get yourself an old trusty XP machine?? There's probably a line broken to the chip on the board.  Purchase another couple of these ECU's.  They are cheap as dirt.   And you can't go wrong having backup.  Well in saying that dirt is pretty expensive these days.  Some bunch of dickheads in DC keep taxing the shit out of us all.

George

I remember!
Ya I picked up a dedicated laptop for this stuff.

I’ve fried a previous ecu. This time around I was extremely meticulous about what I was doing. This ecu should not be damaged.

What I can take from this info provided by you and others is that the ecu Must  be fried or broken because it’s not reading the ecu HA!

Now that I have a better understanding of the steps required to read in boot mode.
The only thing I see that could be an issue is 1k ohm resistor not making good contact with the cnf1 ship or the yellow chips solder points.

Unless the ecu was damaged from regular wear and tear ( which I guess is possible, but unlikely I’m my eyes) I don’t see how I could have done something wrong.
No solder joints other than what was pointed out in the pictures were touched.
Along side that I did the regular boot pin wire to pin 24 for a few seconds at start up and then release.

I will look for another b7 ecu tho!

I’m curious now,
If I find a manual ecu can I simply defeat the immo and then just code the cars cluster and ABS and be done with it ?

If you switch off the immo you don't need to adapt anything with the cluster, that's one of the main reasonings for immo off in the first place.

Have you tried to boot the ECU normally and connect to it through VCDS ? (to validate it is booting properly). ST10Ripper should work to read your ECU by OBD2 without bootmode

You can then flash it through OBD2 with MPPS or if you have access to a J2534 cable I can flash it remotely if you need help

MPPS can read the flash, but it takes about 30 mins. ST10Ripper will read it faster and it will let you read the MPC

Connecting to vcds will be the first thing I do!
I should have just started with st10ripper lol
Where you been bro?!!

The only cables I have are blue kkl, another cable I purchased from a member in the classifieds( just a higher quality blue kkl, I believe) and galletto.
I can definitely check out the cable you mentioned.
Having the remote feature is badass!

Another program I’ll have to get familiar with is mpps.

Here is the link for st10ripper.

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=21785.0


I’ll need to invest in a mpps cable, what do you guys recommend ?

Searched through the forum for the j2534 device. Here’s what I found.
https://docs.vehical.net/logger_tested_devices

Here’s the deal.
Just looked over my bench harness to make sure it wired up correctly. And it is.

The drive train is out of the car so I plugged the ecu body harness wires ,and connected the ecu and tried vcds.

And it does boot up and can  check for fault codes.

One thing that is weird is the lcd on gauge cluster says press clutch pedal to start engine.
What’s that about?

Where to go from here?

I’m thinking the cnf1  1k ohm resistor was not making good contact ?

ECU is good then, I could help to get it to read in boot mode, but ST10Ripper will be an easier solution for you

Your KKL cable will work, set COM port to 3 and latency to 2

Once you have made the readout, flash back by OBD2 with either MPPS or a J2534 cable

I saw a v18 MPPS cable on Amazon for 54$
Can arrive tomorrow.
Saw another one on eBay I think it was v21 if I recall correctly.

Both of these will be okay ?

The j2534 what do you recommend, it seems that one is a bit more pricey.

Thanks for the help!


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I’m gonna spend some time tonight with st10ripper

Got an error with st10 ripper (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240809/673042f83d01e6ca5f5b39ccf56ef382.jpg)


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Bought this cable off Amazon will be here Sunday.


Visit the PARANNIC Store
3.8 3.8 out of 5 stars 17
Mini VCI J2534 Cable V18.00.008 Latest Version, OBD2 Cable Connector Scanner Adapter Fit for TIS Techstream Programming Diagnostic Cable, Support Win XP WIN7 WIN10


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http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=21785.msg166715#msg166715

So where do I go from here ?


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You are "very lucky" with this ECU.
As relative cheap solution you can use china KESS clone to r/w per OBD or read only in boot.
MPPS or Galletto2 will not work.
Original chip tuning tools from other brands will be expensive.
 
If the task is a one-off and consists of reworking the ECU to support manual transmission instead of automatic transmission without any configured patches in the original firmware, simply reflash it using the Odis service tool (or VAS-PC) to software 8E2910560C, and then change the ECU coding to 07717. To do this, you will need to buy a VAS5054A device

For 07k Jetta 2.5 with ECU 07K906032BC, there is an manual firmware that is compatible with this ECU?

Yes, 06A 906 032 QF should work


ST10Ripper should work over K-Line on his ECU, it supports KWP2000 and I have done multiples ECUs with the same configurations :

Key−Word−Protokoll
Kd−Diagnose TP2.0/KWP2000
OBD−Diagnose ISO−Can (OBD on Can)
Flashprogrammierung TP2.0

he should at least be able to connect to the ECU, but it seems he can't even initialize a KWP2000 session


MPPS can also read the flash over TP2.0, it uses checksums to map the memory and create a readout (about 30 minutes). Agree using ODIS might be easier for him if he is only looking to convert it


Latency set to 2 and cable is powered by a FTDI chipset ? Are you able to connect to the ECU using NefMoto ? (Read id and DTCs for example)

Are you sure? See original AMT MPPS supported cars list.
https://amtcartech.com/mpps-carlist/
All cheap MPPS clones support S4 4.2 ME7.1.1 K-line ONLY!!

Not officially listed, but you can select the 3.2 ME7.1.1 can-bus, they both run on TP2.0, same SA2, same memory scheme, same compression and encryption key. Both ST10 architecture. It can read it through the checksum service

Does this mode allow reading and writing a full firmware dump (Flash+MCU)?
If not, then OBD mode is useless.
Rewriting only the flash will not help, since the MCU content is different in AT and MT ecu versions.

I’ll try tonight with nefmoto.

Mpps cable and j2354 arrived

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Only in boot AFAIK, I don't think MPPS can write the MPC content via OBD any VAG ME7.

Do you have this file? Its hard to find it.

Only flash. You are right, it is useless, I did forget, he was looking to switch to a different firmware rather than adapt his file

MPC can be flashed through OBD2 with a J2534 cable, I have written an application for it

Sure

And of course you attach only the extflash, which is absolutely useless on it's own :D

If you can actually get the files off the ecu shoot em over, I can patch it for manual...

It is a ME7.1.1 with the C167, only the flash will work for his case. I can attach the mpc if needed :(

I apologize for the confusion, I know OP have a ST10. I should have PM dal instead of hijacking this thread

Just received my jackal motorsports tuning cable.
It looks similar to mpps.

Is anyone familiar with the cable?

Will it have other uses besides flashing the jackal tune on ?

I have decided to let jackal do the b7 ecu coding.

But my next  project is to to complete the b6 ecu from auto to manual.
Hopefully I won’t hit any more snags lol


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Just got ecu back the other day from getting manual software flashed on along with a stage 1 tune.
I plug ecu into cat and no communication with ecu.
No check engine light on dash, Adlai no crank no start.

Now that the immo is off on the ecu I can try reflashing? It would suck to have to send this ecu back for another 3 weeks turnaround time.

Does anyone have a b7 s4 auto file I can try flashing back onto the ecu?

Abs module accepts manual coding. But continue to get fault codes for no communication with the ecu.

Vcds is being weird also. If I select the engine module and try to clear codes there is an error that pops up.

Have you reached out to Jackal ? It looks like mpc and flash does not match if you have no communication with the ECU. You will not be able to use ODIS to flash it back and it seems like you struggled with bench reading / writing

It is possible to write back a new mpc and flash by OBD2 if the program in the ST10 is good. If you have a J2534 cable, I can help you with my tool to recover your ECU. You will need to boot the ECU with the boot pin grounded (no resistor), then remove ground. From there can-bus should be active and allow for a programming session

I have reached out.
They asked me if all the fuses and relays are good.
And if the cluster says “safe”

He told me I could use the jackal flasher to flash the original file back on.
Which I asked for but did not respond to that. By our convo I have the impression that he thinks the issue is on my end. And that the ecu is good.

One other individual said I needed to do this in response to me posting a picture of when I tried to clear codes in vcds in the engine module.
“ It's telling you to go to OPTIONS and run the test to verify USB connection to the dongle and then click SAVE and then you can go do your stuff.”

This is what vcds says in engine module when clearing codes.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240911/fee41b46e2a57e758322086768a598fd.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240911/76800cb9ed941abf9ecfad790f2f1fd2.jpg)


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Yep your ECU is officially stuck in programming mode or semi-bricked, congratulations for the great success of that flasher!

Can you explain how you’re so sure?


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Press [Advance ID] and post what will show the VCDS screen.

You got it!
Will be home tomorrow night and I’ll post an update.


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Flash is missing the first segments or it doesn't match the processor content. If you have a J2534 cable and immobilizer is disabled, I can recover it by OBD2. Feel free to send me a message or ask Jackal to add a copy of your old flash to your account

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240913/943823b043a931d70070c7e931bf7ec7.jpg)


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Just check all wiring over again.
Ecu is getting power so like you all suggeste there is an issue with the ecu.
It’s going back to the flasher to get fixed.

Now time to work on the b6 s4 auto to manual swap!
Shouldn’t be stressful this time around!


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How do you upload the flash read.
Every time I select insert flash and try to drag and drop file in, it opens my download window   ?
What am I doing wrong


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