As I mentioned this setup was 'little experimental', meaning we used what we had. Honestly did not think about CR until I noticed the crazy timing pull from previous tune, so call it a mistake or an oversight or whatever, doesn't matter. Still I want to have the car perform as good as it can, so I am pushing what can be pushed, clearly knowing it is not good to have high EGT and low advance. This is why I put octane booster to make the best of it. The goal was achieved, the car is much faster now, but yes, theoretically this is not a correct approach. I care little if this engine melts, it is not about mileage, this is not a daily, and it is not for economy, same reason. Car is full carbon fiber body kit, 6 speed dog box gearbox, under 3000lbs, it is just for fun. I just saw prj's abysmal graph and decided to share mine and get some opinions. Moreover the topic is about injectors on high CR, so I wanted to show that 630cc are actually maxed out with such a setup.

That's it, plain and simple. This whole other crazy back and forth with this dude was actually a complete shock to me and I apologize to all the innocent bystanders

I actually plan to add another 1 or 2 degrees up top, see what happens and pay closer attention to EGT.

You seem to be obsessed with telling others what to do.
The world doesn't work that way.
Nobody gives a shit about what you want.

But we arrived at the final conclusion - you screwed up the hardware so now you're trying to bodge it to work somehow.

Yes, your abysmal graph matches exactly the abysmal graph i posted to illustrate what happens with too high CR and too much boost. What a surprise?
If you had any clue about ME7 you would know that knock detection is blended out for those cylinders that are in cutoff mask.
Do a pull with a reasonable length, your super duper tune will fall apart immediately.

For EGT your ECU has a real actual EGT input and closed loop control.

Alright man, I don't want to start a war here, not sure where 'telling people what to do' came from either, but it doesn't matter.

Here are some logs I just did, in case anyone is interested. Gave it 1 more degree up top, seems to be holding. EGT apparently is irrelevant unless you floor it for 30 minutes straight, but during the short pulls on 4th it went to about 750 C.

edit: doesn't seem to take 5mb files, will have to reduce later and reupload

Do you have possibility to instal WMI?  I think it might best solution for what you have now

I am not a professional tuner either, really far from that, but I call bullshit on the 750C EGTs with pump gas measured in the runners.

Right.

So I have a few things to add to this whole deal. Just now I am actually rebuilding my car and valves were on the thing I put extensive research into. You probably know there is a whole fiasco about stock exhaust valves in 1.8T and 2.7T how they are weak and blablalala.. Well they arent, because of sodium and decent material usage.
The issues come from a multitude of things one being the insane EGT's people try to run stock compressions and such.

I actually reached out to Supertech , multiple OE replacements (for solid valves) companies such as Mahle and TRW(Kolben), aswell as an actual major valve steel supplier.
Found out that if you are looking for replacement solid valves TRW makes the best one because they use the best material available DIN 1.4882, Mahle comes second because of inferior material (predecessor of 1.4882). However do not replace the stock valves if they arent worn(but usually they are at this mileage of engines). TRW's valve is actually superiour to Supertechs stainless series or on par, the only thing Supertech they have over them is the coating ofcourse.

Now what kind of temps can some of these valves take?

DIN 1.4882 contains titanium hence its strong properties and good resistance which is qualifed up to 820C on the valve. Lets put it on a comparison: Inconel. Supertechs valves are made from Inconel 751
which is qualified for 860C on the valve with this info coming straight from valve steel supplier.
The stock EGT system was created using 4 sensors in multiple locations, the FR gives an exact description on the whole system both an EGT input model and modeled EGT.

Now you know that gas temp will not equate to the same temps on the valve but you get an idea. Porsche made a paper about this when they ran one of their cars with state of the art sensor to see whats up. Have a read its good stuff:
https://www.porscheengineering.com/filestore/download/peg/en/pemagazin-01-2015-artikel-07/default/506ac10b-bdd2-11e5-8bd4-0019999cd470/Optical-Measurement-of-the-Valve-Temperature-A-Precise-Measuring-Method-Porsche-Engineering-Magazine-01-2015.pdf

Yes the 1.8T and ME7 is quite bulletproof and idiot proof but it does not mean you cannot do bad things in extreme scenarios.

Why is that graph "bad" and why its a decent example of what happens with big turbos and stock CR AND pump fuel?

prj is right. That timing is bad for power bad for everything. In the last few months or even years I dont think I have seen a decent log of an 1.8T with double digit numbers or decent peak torque timing.

Actually few years ago during the start of my campaign here I actually decided to turbocharge my car which happend to be 1.8NA with 10.3CR. Fast forward few years , its still here but let me tell you from experience, please learn the importance of CR in a turbocharged car.

I ran 5-6 degrees of timing at peak torque and barerly double digits towards redline ofcourse with fuel dump as its necessary with under or max 1 bar boost with slighly smaller turbo . It is still here getting built to the next stage, but trust me you can do better. However in my case I knew what I was running into and had the necessary paths to deal with em, higher octanes and toulene was no problem.

Where can you get some base numbers of what you should be running?
Funny you should ask since Bosch did that for you to a certain degree. For a base take a look at KFZWOP and then you'll see how far off you are and few degrees make a huge difference in operation of an ICE. IIRC kfzwop was done using 120 RON fuel, correct me if wrong.

You have your car in the current state yes, now take in what people are saying and take the correct steps to make it even more reliable and useable for the purpose it was built for. Dont be like certain people or certain groups.  I had people tell me VAG engineers were retarded for dropping CR in the 225+ (even some 210) models to 9 in an environiment where power was second goal. Oh yeah dont forget they did that cause people "usually" seem to forget that ))
Oh also dont forget back in the 4 cylinder turbo era of F1, they ran on 6.x CR and like 70% toulene to be able to run 4 bar or so boost so that they can make power.

Where can you find a quick remedy to your issues? such as a compression dropping headgasket?

A company in Germany- WP Spezialteile makes comp dropping headgaskets for less than 100 euro. They take an original OEM Elring headgasket and put in a nicely machined spacer, and reseal it I have some pics if you wish, but I am really impressed by the quality of the work and effort. You can also find comp dropping headgaskets from other companies , more expensive ofcourse.


All in all, the amount of ppl that underestimate CR limitations on pump fuel is seriously funny. It also seems people are scared about lower compression ratio, really all its needed is to remind them that VAG dropped the CR by half a point just to go a K04 and few degrees of timing to make some more power. How much should you go on a triple sized turbo and other supporting mods on simple 95 RON or >100 RON fuel
Yes higher CR is good IF you can run the necessary fuel for it. Otherwise what you lose in mechanical 'power',over the dynamic operation of the engine you will gain much much more, than being severly knock limited and pushing components to there extremes.

I have logs on hand on friends with WIP builds and let me tell you its not pretty pump fuel and big turbo dont go well together on stock comp.

TLDR: Drop your compression , as for topic it will also relieve some pressure from injectors as you dont have to fuel dump as much,for which you wouldnt have the capacity to do anyway because of the internal components of the engine

This is general information that can be found all over the internet when it comes to turbo charged petrol engines with forged internals. Checkout some of the old dsm forums or honda forums and do some reading. There is no magical answer here, and this has been covered so many times on other forums its kind of dumb to hijack a 10 year old thread over it.

You keep asking what EGT.
VAG runs 980C continuous at the turbine with the stock engine. It's in the ECU.
0.9 and then fuel dump closed loop to not go past 980C.

But your engine is not VAG anymore. So who knows what the max allowed EGT is.
Your sensors are also not in the stock location (by the turbine) and who knows how precise they are.
Couple that with the fact that you are doing 6-7 second pulls...

Over here we have something called "One Mile Challenge". It's an event where people go WOT for 1 mile and then get a ranking based on trap speed.
Every car I tuned locally has to be able to take part in that event. Yours would not be able to unless you run it on MS109 or E85, as it would blow up half way.