While what you say is true for BTS, it is not true for LAMFA.
LAMFA is a completely different path and the result is min(LAMFA,BTS), it is not additive.

LAMFA should be very much used for adjusting fueling at WOT for best power. It is by far the best map to do so.

The richer LAMFA also calculates (or measures in case of real sensor) a lower exhaust gas temperature. So unless you go super rich on LAMFA it is not going to do too much.

For ATR to go super rich on these it's not so much LAMFA as just increasing load is enough, even with complete stock everything else.
If you do a pull on dyno with more boost it goes to 0.7 or something stupid.

Sent you a PM.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W9jndwA7XIJ-OZJo_v5IYWEW4ZwbNi6n/view?usp=drivesdk

My custom code activated via Cruise Control, includes launch control with adjustable RPM and also No Lift Shift

This is free:
https://github.com/prometey1982/VolvoTools/tree/master
This is free:
https://github.com/rlinewiz/OpenMoose
This is paid:
https://docs.vehical.net/logger_getting_started

Maybe there's something else available? I don't know.

I suppose MY2000 is P80 or am I wrong?
I would need to edit the adresses before build. Is the bin which it is based on available?

More QHHJ... fixed more axis & added more maps mainly for 5120 and other stuff.... map packs are only useful for a few that know that theyre doing

On another note, Im hoping to have one of my R's back together in the coming weeks... 2007 S60R, 2.4 T5 B5244T5, E85, 1300cc injectors, 71mm k24 hybrid, Audi RS4 Maf.... Stay tuned for file and results

Using the conversion formula from S4Wiki, load value 180 would result to approx. 1.1 Bar? Or maybe I'm just bad at math haha. I know it's not a direct relation to "boost", but it makes it easier to grasp the idea.


So just increasing the load limit will result in very rich mixture when on WOT, and adjusting LAMFA will not help much? If so, why so many people choose this method for a Stage 1 tune?
Also, the stock LAMFA of a 2000 T5R is like this:

Conversion from load->boost vary between engine sizes, factory calibration philosophy etc.
In your car 180 load is around 1,2 bar not 1,1

Stock turbo is capable to do 180 load and maybe slightly above up to around 5000rpm in ideal conditions (cold weather) and with supporting mods like exhaust and IC. Then it will fall off regardless.
Simply speaking stock load axis is enough for stock turbo to make max power.

Of course 180 load may not be sufficient if you tune for diesel-like power curve with insane low-mid-range torque falling hard afterwards
Some people like to have car that fells/looks fast but is not
If you want to have faster car - put bigger turbo. Stock TD04HL-16T is week as fu** And do not put any stupid 19T or 21T or whatever hybrid. All those TD04 family turbos do is clog the exhaust
Any fun starts from TD05 or GT30 etc

2.3 engine bears 1,4-1,5bar. With proper turbo this gives 4xx+ HP and this is more or less when fun starts

Of course then you have to recalibrate MIOP/MIRL tables