s60rawr
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« Reply #1890 on: November 13, 2022, 11:12:39 PM »
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"They never learn...if they want good obfuscation they need to write in native code and use something like VMProtect."
I've done more for this community via Social engineering than ANYONE in this thread has done in 10 years.
"Change my Mind"
Seriously you Big Pigs can get fucked.
You are the roadblock. And you support them! I Hope everything you ever find is so fucking encrypted than you never make progress.
Then when you do, you will have no friends to work with or appreciate it.
Scamming asshats.
Why would anyone help you? "Dikidera"
I know at least 3 people that have Volvo Denso Projects, I even have the Bootloader and code for one flash loader.
Why don't you work together instead of having your 3 separate shit projects that will never be released.
I've done more for P2Rs in a month than ANYONE here has done in a decade. Doesn't matter how I did it. It's done.
More people can tune their cars because of my actions than Ever before. Are you going to refute this?!
Shame and public exposure of corruption seems to work, but y'all are such PUSSIES, you'll never get a damn thing done.
Why don't people storm government buildings and fix the corruption amongst the land? Too comfy in your Lazyboys eating Doritos
All upset, pulling false information and making baseless insults. Doesn't phase me.
You're the morally wrong person.
Youre the dirtbag "goin to hell"
Youre the one who will live with a global reputation of being a scammer, and shit tuner who fucks people over.
If I was Brandon Halme, I would be embarrassed to be recognized at any car shows because YOU KNOW people recognize you as a scammer and fraud peddler.
Unhelpful roadblock in what is Volvo Tuning.
Same with the rest of you dickweeds. I would be happy to spit in your face.
Relish the day
This community is absolute dogshit.
Nobody is going to help you (publicly)
You can't even fuckin search the website. Its a joke.
S60Rawr formed his own little faggy group of douche bags that is separate from the other group of Volvo Douchebags, and post his "Secret friends" work as his own.
MFer cant even type a sentence. He cant tune or program, so he has everything to lose if he is not "nice" or on his knees for the cowardly people siphoning information through him.
Now there are 2 Distinct P2R Volvo Douchebag groups.
Both of them Trash
All because I didn't want to give you a name of someone that linked me the code from across the pond? We were working good together, but instead of collecting more data in silence and coming out with a big home run you would blurt out all the info leaked here. If you were to settle down I'll text you some new info on something "my faggy" team is working on. Did I fuck up by putting that code out there this early? Possibly. With this new find we don't even need any of the original source, which again if you were civil with me I'd show you. https://www.nuget.org/packages/J2534-Sharp/^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ There is no need to be writing these rants anymore... Yes I used the shift key. |
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« Last Edit: November 13, 2022, 11:26:07 PM by s60rawr »
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There is a free flash suite in progres
-Karma Sponge |
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nyet
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« Reply #1891 on: November 13, 2022, 11:29:45 PM »
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cut it out or I will start deleting and banning.
dont need the drama.
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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Mach1
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« Reply #1892 on: November 14, 2022, 01:53:48 PM »
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Can you guys share what you've used successfully for bench/bootmode. Cable/software combo
Got another ECU not responding after being read successfully once. Trying to rule out if it's a bad cable(using cheap 1260) or something else. Thanks in advance
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Dudde
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« Reply #1893 on: November 14, 2022, 10:35:28 PM »
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Can you guys share what you've used successfully for bench/bootmode. Cable/software combo
Got another ECU not responding after being read successfully once. Trying to rule out if it's a bad cable(using cheap 1260) or something else. Thanks in advance
Mpps, Kess, Ktag, Fgtech, Galetto 1260 with different Vag kkl cables. Check your wiring and powersupply, i had same issue once and it was something stupid with my wiring that i forgot.. |
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dikidera
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« Reply #1894 on: November 15, 2022, 11:40:07 AM »
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Can you guys share what you've used successfully for bench/bootmode. Cable/software combo
Got another ECU not responding after being read successfully once. Trying to rule out if it's a bad cable(using cheap 1260) or something else. Thanks in advance
Raspberry Pi 3b with MCP2515 board which was modified slightly. |
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prj
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« Reply #1895 on: November 15, 2022, 12:26:43 PM »
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Can you guys share what you've used successfully for bench/bootmode. Cable/software combo
Got another ECU not responding after being read successfully once. Trying to rule out if it's a bad cable(using cheap 1260) or something else. Thanks in advance It can also be complete lack of understanding of electricity and electronics and you frying all your ECU's. There was a guy on here who put the on/off switch on ground and grounded the micro pin behind the switch, and was wondering why he was frying ECU's. Took him 3 of them or so until I realized what he was doing and pointed it out. Obviously because the only ground point became that leg of the chip, which fried the chip every time. You're switching 12V right?  Do the ECU's still respond to diags/run the car after you do your stuff? |
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« Last Edit: November 15, 2022, 12:28:47 PM by prj »
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dikidera
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« Reply #1896 on: November 15, 2022, 12:50:07 PM »
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It can also be complete lack of understanding of electricity and electronics and you frying all your ECU's. There was a guy on here who put the on/off switch on ground and grounded the micro pin behind the switch, and was wondering why he was frying ECU's. Took him 3 of them or so until I realized what he was doing and pointed it out. Obviously because the only ground point became that leg of the chip, which fried the chip every time. You're switching 12V right? Do the ECU's still respond to diags/run the car after you do your stuff? This is why I bought a cheap ECU first, so I can ensure it works(and so far after having been connected for 12hrs+ sniffing CAN on bench mode it does). I'll soon be turning it into a J2534 device, thanks to Sardine-Win32 only instead of Arduino it's an RPI using Bluetooth as comunication between app(since most laptops have bluetooth and every modern phone on the planet). |
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prj
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« Reply #1897 on: November 15, 2022, 12:56:05 PM »
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You know, legit J2534 devices are <200 EUR at this point.
And cheap china shit is <50 EUR, which works quite well too.
There's like no point whatsoever to roll your own.
Epic waste of time, the hardware has been solved so many times over...
Instead you could be spending your time implementing the software and not worry about the hardware.
That's what I did and I'm doing quite well. People have a super affordable proper logging solution (not for Volvo, sorry), and they don't need to buy yet another cable for it either.
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Dannyhaddon
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« Reply #1898 on: November 15, 2022, 01:17:34 PM »
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Hi guys,
Been following for a while.
Spotted the open moose software and think it's great to have that out at last.
Will read my car on the weekend, does anyone know how long it takes to read? I'll hook up a charger in any case. Thanks
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dikidera
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« Reply #1899 on: November 15, 2022, 01:48:09 PM »
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You know, legit J2534 devices are <200 EUR at this point.
And cheap china shit is <50 EUR, which works quite well too.
There's like no point whatsoever to roll your own.
Epic waste of time, the hardware has been solved so many times over...
Instead you could be spending your time implementing the software and not worry about the hardware.
That's what I did and I'm doing quite well. People have a super affordable proper logging solution (not for Volvo, sorry), and they don't need to buy yet another cable for it either.
Still <50 eur more expensive than I'd like. And there's always a point, you get to be more intimate with the stuff at the protocol level. And I also don't like proprietary black boxes. I like to know what's at the start and end of a pipeline. |
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prj
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« Reply #1900 on: November 15, 2022, 02:35:09 PM »
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Still <50 eur more expensive than I'd like. And there's always a point, you get to be more intimate with the stuff at the protocol level. And I also don't like proprietary black boxes. I like to know what's at the start and end of a pipeline. Dude it's like 10-15$ for the super cheap clones. A Pi costs more than that for the bare board. There's nothing fun about implementing J2534 API's or ISO-TP (for newer stuff). It's tedious useless work, re-inventing the bicycle. Being able to do that or not do that will not get you any closer to your goal. Furthermore, doing a proper USB->CAN is not that easy because USB is a serial protocol and the timings are pretty bad. If you do it in a naive way you will have horrible performance. Implementing a full blown message pump, queuing, the J2534 API and having actually decent throughput isn't something you're gonna do in a week. And then once you've done all that, you're nowhere closer to your goal. It's the equivalent of saying that you don't want to push the button on the toilet to see where the flushed stuff goes, you prefer to run an extra pipe around it and shovel it in there by hand. Nothing wrong with implementing some J standard, but in the end utterly pointless. Especially since Volcano just uses the raw CAN sending ability of the interface, it's not done in hardware. |
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Mach1
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« Reply #1901 on: November 15, 2022, 04:07:37 PM »
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Mpps, Kess, Ktag, Fgtech, Galetto 1260 with different Vag kkl cables. Check your wiring and powersupply, i had same issue once and it was something stupid with my wiring that i forgot..
It can also be complete lack of understanding of electricity and electronics and you frying all your ECU's. There was a guy on here who put the on/off switch on ground and grounded the micro pin behind the switch, and was wondering why he was frying ECU's. Took him 3 of them or so until I realized what he was doing and pointed it out. Obviously because the only ground point became that leg of the chip, which fried the chip every time. You're switching 12V right? Do the ECU's still respond to diags/run the car after you do your stuff? Thanks for the input. After first ECU had issues, all wiring was replaced besides cable.. I'll try a new cable. Yes using 12v. I've tried flashing up to 13.8v with no problem after several flashes on bench. Interesting note the amps while reading/writing remained the same whether using 12v or 13.8v. Do you have any suggestions for [recovering]reading the AM29F4xx chip or points to check on a 'fried ecu'? Thanks in advance |
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prj
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« Reply #1902 on: November 15, 2022, 04:15:27 PM »
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Thanks for the input. After first ECU had issues, all wiring was replaced besides cable.. I'll try a new cable.
Yes using 12v. I've tried flashing up to 13.8v with no problem after several flashes on bench. Interesting note the amps while reading/writing remained the same whether using 12v or 13.8v.
Do you have any suggestions for [recovering]reading the AM29F4xx chip or points to check on a 'fried ecu'?
Thanks in advance You did not answer either of the questions actually. a) What are you switching on and off. 12V or GND? b) Do the ECU's work in a car after your experiments? |
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Mach1
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« Reply #1903 on: November 16, 2022, 01:11:48 AM »
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You did not answer either of the questions actually.
a) What are you switching on and off. 12V or GND?
b) Do the ECU's work in a car after your experiments?
Sorry, a) 12v+ is switched. GND always connected its crimped to a post, then a small jumper clamps onto the post which is used to short pin 24. everything's connected using a factory engine harness with extra wires removed to prevent any shorts b) Yes all ECU's are still working after multiple bench read/writes with the exception of one that failed when a checksum was missed/skipped. That ECU strangely failed after the car was started on the 3rd time. If this helps anything... in a previous case the goal was to get a duplicate/spare ECU for tuning ['01 S60] after reading both factory and spare ECU's the HW/SW numbers matched in the bin, but different a2l- then proceeded to overwrite the spare ECU with our factory bin and it failed to write at 50% (tried few times), when the original spare bin dump was written back (4th try) it failed at 70% the first time, 10% the 2nd and ECU stopped responding after. As an experiment afterwards. took an ECU from a P80 XC (Different HW/SW/a2l) wrote the factory bin just fine no problem and ECU still works after some tweaking. |
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prj
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« Reply #1904 on: November 16, 2022, 02:55:19 AM »
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OK, then you have some issue in your boot process getting the required pins to the required state and/or flash tool issues.
At least you are not destroying the ECU's and that's a good start.
You can rule out the tool issue by buying a different cheap clone tool e.g. if you have Galletto try a MPPS or vice versa.
And if after that you have the same problem, then you know the issue is most likely with how you connect the boot pin.
I've tuned quite a few ME7 and ME9 Volvos back in the day, and even more EDC15/16 and I never ever had any issues getting any of the ME7/EDC15 into boot mode.
Usually I just soldered a wire to pin 24 and ran it into the car, then grounded it to the ignition lock barrel during key on, and I could boot mode the thing in the car.
So I did not need to pull the ECU out.
Careful when doing stuff like that on the dyno, the eddy current brakes can induce current into long loose wires and cause all sorts of weird issues.
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« Last Edit: November 16, 2022, 02:57:18 AM by prj »
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