I think the info. in this thread will be useful for VR6 owners converting from NA to turbo. I would mention that the later R32 and similar engines use the ME 7.1.1 ECUs which can be more difficult to work with especially the ST10 based ECUs. In DSG situations requested torque can also be an issue. The OE compression ratio is 10:8-11:1 depending on what data you believe for the 2004-2009 3.2L VR6 engines. For power of 375 HP and higher most VW/Audi tuners recommend a cyl. head spacer or lower compression pistons. Billet rods are also recommended above ~ 400 HP. The OE pistons are Mahle cast and they should be replaced with forged pistons for high HP application reliability. Mahle Motorsport U.S. and other's offer these forged pistons with a lower compression ratio.

Ok, i did some measurements about ignition timing, because of discussion in this thread that stock timing will kill your engine.

With current setup and stock ignition timing, when flooring it (30-110km/h) i don't see any real dips on timing. At full throttle on maximum boost (around 0.65bar) advance is around 14-21 degrees at 5000rpm all the way to redline where it drops to single digits (torque limiting maybe). How is that possible? It kinda matches to primary ignition maps A and B...

So, after that. I made changes that at full load, ignition timing should be around 9-15 degrees at 5000 rpm... did really see any change on data, it's still the same.

Is Torque app logging something like "requested ignition timing" that has nothing to do with actual timing? I don't see any knocking on timing curves.... or feel it or hear it.

Example row from data
Timing Advance Deg : 19.5
Air flow g/s : 268.5
RPM : 5064
... while heavily accelerating.

depends on fuel as well

underscaling load is a bad idea for a lot of different reasons. knock recognition is one of dozens.

I was restraining myself from saying this, but somehow cannot. I appreciate the effort of OP and all to write his experiences down, and it is very nice to see that people are not afraid to experiment.

But attempts like this give others the false belief that it is possible to do (well, that one is true), easy to do, cheap to do, or done properly. Many will follow this half baked solution and at the end of the line the global conclusion is going to be that such conversions are unreliable etc. and several will break their engines. I have seen this happening on another scene ages ago, and when folks finally came with the right solutions, these were doubted under the assumption that they are the same crap as the first bodges. 

At the very least put a huge and red disclaimer at the beginning stating this is incomplete and risky

It's no problem to tune this properly by those who know how to do it. There's a few sw patches involved, and then after that it's just calibration changes, but it just takes a lot of time.

On this forum you can count these people most likely on the fingers of one hand... oh and no one works for free.

You don't know what you're on about, just throwing out buzzwords without having a clue of how things work.

You can absolutely run the R32 with a MAP sensor instead of the MAF on the stock ECU. You can have full lambda control. You can have good throttle control. You can have boost control.
On a daily car it will still drive a LOT better than any standalone ECU, because those just don't have the functions for refinement that the factory ECU has and gives you for free.
If you think this is easy, no it's not. If you're a guy in a garage, forget OE ECU tuning, you don't have the capability to ever get that right anyway, especially on more complicated projects.

But if it's a car that is just needed for motorsport, and the setup changes all the time, then it's a much better idea to fit the tool to do the job. A standalone.

Also, the OE ECU has all the strategies required, if you are the vendor. Set SY_TURBO = 1, set SY_DSS = 1, recompile. BOOM.

Well actually I do know a thing or two about how things work. The point is that there are better means to convert an NA engine to FI than hacking the NA ECU. I understand that you probably do this for a living and generate revenue from same and that's fine and dandy but the average enthusiasts isn't likely to be able to do the re-engineering of the NA ECU to make a FI engine run 100% properly. In fact many so called tuners who do this for a living are unable to make the VR6 run properly like the OE engine after it's converted to FI. If you're able to do everything properly, that's great. In the 20+ years that I have owned VR6 powered vehicles I have never heard of or seen any VR6 turbo engine using a MAP sensor which is the preferred method for monitoring cylinder density. Enabling SY_Turbo and SY_DSS isn't the challenge.

There are in fact aftermarket engine management systems that can duplicate the performance of the OE Bosch or similar ECUs without going to the extremes that some auto makers do. You can even buy Bosch aftermarket systems for an absurd price that offer most everything the OE ECU offers. OE systems 20 years ago were not torque based and they ran just fine same as current torque based systems. Some aftermarket systems employ a combination of MAF, MAP and torque based strategies to obtain the best performance for both street or motorsports situations. Some of the aftermarket systems also incorporate options for wet or dry NOS operation, water-injection, dual fuel injectors and other controls not available on the OE Bosch ECU. The aftermarket has made great gains in engine management over the past decade and the better systems are no longer the crude ECUs of the past. You pay for this advancement but it's an option that is finally available for those looking to do their own proper tuning. It's still a lot of work to do it all properly however and this point should not be underestimated.

I think between this thread and the one below VR6 owners and others looking to convert an NA engine to FI will be able to see the challenges, pitfalls, limitations and options that exist should they decide to pursue a project of this magnitude. None of the options are for the faint of heart other than buying a tune and hoping it works.

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=17016.0title=