NefMoto

I'm releasing my Stage 2++ file to the public. Please read the entire post before downloading and flashing this file!

I labeled this file STG 2++ because it is very aggressive, user beware!  But it is a very strong and smooth file.  If your car is healthy it is going to pull VERY hard.

I've attempted to make this file as safe as possible, due to the large variations of mileage, maintenance of the cars and drivetrain don't expect miracles.  I also don't take responsibility if you blow a turbo or anything else related to your car/motor/tranny. And I certainly don't take responsibility if you loose your license :P

Notes:
-----------------------------
-Boost profile holds approx 20-21psi, tapers to 13 psi by redline.
-7200 RPM Redline
-increased timing
-TB opens to 100% by 3000 RPM
-rear O2 sensors are turned off (can unplug sensor completely)
-suggest min. 93/94 octane, full downpipes and exhaust.  Recommended to upgrade IC's if possible.

Logs:
-----------------------------
Notes about the logs... they were taken when the car was already heatsoaked as can be seen by the IAT's... so fueling and timing is not representative if you have proper cooling or running on a cool night.

ed note: locking thread as it is utterly useless since the files are long gone - nyet

Logs look good.

very nice! can you add a requested AFR plot?

thanks for letting me know it wasn't showing...

guess that's what happens when you C&P URL links :P

fixed now :)

nice work but why is the fats run so high (7.2 sec?)

Not that it matters.. but the logs are from an A6, with lots of weight in it + it was heat soaked.

you should be fine- log your cars correction factors and knock voltage to find out for sure.

Ok I will try and flash the file,  I presume it uses the hitachi maf as its an m-box file? I have the bosch maf , so it would have to be edited first..


Thanks.

^^ correct it's for a Hitachi sensor

First post, be kind. :)

I'm upgrading my intake/intercoolers this week and am planning on running this flash.

Along for the ride with those parts is a 85mm MAF.

I'd like to install it along with everything else, but I know this will screw things up if the tune is not adjusted for the larger MAF.

I haven't anything in the way of doing this kind of thing before. (Just got my vag cable today)... but.... looking at Tony's Stage 3 base tune, I see he adjusted the MLHFM table for the 85mm MAF.

Would all I need to do be just copy the values from his tune into this one? I see he also touched KFMLDMX for the maximum load which I suppose I can change pre-emptively but I'm not sure.

Do you think I should adjust the MAF now or just wait until I get my new turbos/fueling gear later?

Thanks

It makes no sense to me to install a larger MAF. Your injectors are already gonna be pushed beyond the limit by this file.

If you want to get a head start on stage 3 fueling, I would start with injectors and work on getting them calibrated properly.

Thanks guys-- What's this about the injectors being strained with this file? I don't see this mentioned anywhere else. Or is it simply the stock injectors have some known hard limit that this file exceeds?

Basically any stage 1 or 2 tuning will max out the stock injectors. Look at the IDC graph on the first page.

Thanks phila_dot, I'll just pack away the MAF until stage3+ ;D

So I went over the oxygen sensor deletes, and there are about 3-4 values that aren't 0'd out that should be.  I fixed them in my map but I thought I would give you a heads up.  The S4wiki is even missing a few based upon the info in this thread: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php/topic,615.msg6470.html#msg6470

Which ones? I'll update the wiki time permitting. Thanks!

OP - Is this tune sensitive to limiting boost via MBC? I run a MBC in parallel to cap boost spikes on my current GIAC tune, and I cannot limit boost below the requested amount without putting the car in limp mode with my current tune. I ask because at the track I prefer to limit peak boost. I'd be interested in running your tune with the ability to use the MBC to limit to 16psi or so for track days, but let it go with the full ~21psi on the street, as I don't often really push it on the street but like to have the aggressive tune available.

Thanks!

This tune shouldn't be all too sensitive, but I tried to leave 'most' safeguards in place instead of just removing them completely.  So it is possible you will run into issues when capping the boost.

BUT, you can always edit this file and reduce the boost if you like and then switch the ECU program when ever you feel like it.  That would be the proper way to do it instead of using an MBC.

Yes, that would be the best way - I'm familiarizing myself with the software and processes to modify the program and reflash - just bought my spare ECU. I'll play around with it.

Thanks

Loaded the file a little earlier and I'm very impressed with the tune. It's extremely smooth and easy to accelerate moderately (part throttle) without any boost fluctuations. WOT feels much better than my previous tune.

Thanks for sharing the tune - it will give me a great basis for making tweaks to support my driving style.

I have opened up your file as well as the stock 001 M-box file and I am comparing the two to learn what you have done to accomplish the fueling changes.  Now, correct me if I'm wrong here but the only two maps I see that have been change with any normal relation to fuel is LAMFA and KFLF.  Is that correct?

Per this thread: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php/topic,141.0title,.html , from what I understood (which could be completely incorrect) is that LAMFA isn't the best way to control adding fuel and to use BTS.  I've tried using BTS and it hasn't made a big difference where in your logs I see that the desired AFR is right where you have LAMFA set to at .81 @ WOT.

Am I misinterpreting something here or can you shed some light on my ignorance, lol?

Thanks in advance!!!

Nick

The consensus seems to be that a combination of both is good.

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#Desired_AFR

The thread you read goes to a different direction towards the end, might want to check it out

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php/topic,141.msg9068.html#msg9068

Great to hear some feedback... I have since made a few small tweaks to the tune (on the car I originally created it the A6 and fats for the last run are 5.13), I will post up the latest revision soon... But like any tune, especially aggressive ones they don't always react the same on cars with different hardware, etc.

here is snippet of the LOG from REV4 of this tune showing the MAF... so pretty strong IMO:

(http://i.imgur.com/umhVR.jpg)

That MAF does seem very strong...

I'm using your tune as my baseline to create 2 separate tunes - one for street driving and one for track days (road courses). I've tweaked the boost table to limit peak requested boost and once I finally get my MTX checksums license (still waiting...) I'm going to log and tweak timing.

Planning to have the less aggressive tune for the track where I'm running 30 minute sessions and don't want to stress the turbos too much.

I'd be interested to see the tweaks you've made recently as well - I'll post my renditions as well, although I'm very much a newbie at tuning at this point.

Thanks

I read talk about replacing injectors for this tune and have a couple of questions.  ;D  Which injectors would work best/better for this tune and how do I "calibrate" them for this tune?

TIA!

you don't need to replace injectors for this tune

Ok just wanted to check.

I'm running your file on my buddies 2000 S4 and we're not quite seeing the requested/actual load and boost pressure as high as yours.  I have only converted the file over to Bosch MAF and added the antilag/nls stuff.  Could it be hardware related, like a boost leak.  I've tried increasing the LDRXN values and it make no difference at all.

Thanks in advance,
Nick

likely hardware related. I've got 2 versions of this file for my car, and the one I run without any updates to the requested boost table allows my car to peak at just over 20psi per my boost gauge. Close to 21. Do your logs show that boost is not meeting target?

We'll have to run a leak test on it.  Here's the load and boost of one log (although they are pretty consistent):

Load:
(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/3245/image045.gif)

Boost:
(http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1320/image046.gif)

I may have even increased LDRXN a bit yet yielding no change.  Even if I push it way up, still doesn't pass what seems to be a limit (or leak)

Weird graphs. no axis data.

consider using ecuxplot :)

The axis data is there it's just black and blends into the background.  I can recreate with ecucplot though :)

Have you looked at LDRLMX?

also, graph rl_w, rlmax_w, rlmx_w, and rlsol_w

I'm not finding that map.  Does the M-box have that one or did you accident make a typo?


I logged the vehicle with ECUx.  I haven't given ME7logger a chance yet...  Can I still log these?  If so, what will they be called in ECUxPlot?

Complete logs would be nice, also what modifications to the car?

Not sure about the one he mentioned, but i'd start with KFLDHBN

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#Boost


EngineLoadCorrected/Specified/Requested or some such

It's not a map, but the section of the funktionsrahmen that limits max load (rlmax_w).

I have attached the CSV.  The cars current hardware consists of intake, diverters and a catback which I know isn't technically stage 2 hardware.  The cats are being removed as soon as he orders his clutch.  It was stock programming up to this point so I can't say for sure that there isn't a boost leak either.  A boost leak check is in order as well but it just seems to always stop around 191 load (which is ~17.5psi).


Thank you.


Thanks.  Would you happen to have translated that section?

Actual boost seems to be tracking req just fine. I dont see any hardware issues. If your req boost is lower than you think it should be, recheck KFMIRL, LDRXN and KFLDHBN

Thank you for looking into it!  Thing is, I just loaded this file without making any changes to any of the maps yet this cars req boost is less then NOTORIOUS VR's car.  That's what confused me.  All I changed was the mlhfm, mlofs and KFKHFM to run on the 2000's Bosch MAF as per Snow Troopers Bosch M-box file.  Could that be throwing off the load?

There are many many things that could change req load.

Without seeing his logs, there is no way of knowing why you are seeing something different.

The most likely culprit is KFTARX.

Ok I ran some logs with this tune and not sure how healthy the car is so I thought I might post and get feedback.  Any suggestions to what is wrong/right/just fine would be great.

(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log1.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log2.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log3.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log4.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log5.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log6.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log7.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log8.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log9.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log10.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log11.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log12.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log13.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log14.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log15.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log16.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log17.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log18.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log19.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log20.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log21.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log22.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log23.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log24.jpg)
(http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww221/sqitis/Logs/log25.jpg)

Looks very good to me.. I would maybe do a few fueling tweaks down low to lower the knock a little... other wise looks pretty much spot on.

How does the car feel?

that looks very healthy for stage 2... well done!

Which table specifically are you referring to?

I actually changed my mind.. I would try to lower the D-term of the PID control first around 3k... see how that goes...

Thank you so much for posting this tune!  I spent the day comparing the tune I got to yours and it was really comprehensive as to why my car was acting a nut.  The tune I got was garbage, and I dont know how he got anything to run with that file.  I cant believe I paid for that mess. 

So, for a large single turbo setup limiting boost to WG spring (13psi)....Mafless because I still havent finished up my intake...your tune has me smilling ear to ear. 

I just need to get the readiness to pass for o2 sensor so I cando emmisions and register.

I haven't had a chance to work on a tune for marcellus but if its running okay on his file just do the hack I showed you and have yout wg duty cycle max around 35% in areas that it was 95 and the turbo should ne spooled.  That should be 20 ish psi with a 13lb spring.  Every.setup varies so go easy

Glad people are enjoying the tune :)

I Kind of cobbled my way through it.  It runs well enough, the idle is a little rough.  I just wanted to try a file that was more towards my cars setup without swapping in the 630cc injectors and introduce another variable I will have to troubleshoot.  This tune served its purpose for me, showing me that my setup wasnt causing the big driveability issue. 

Going from this tune to my full setup, I wouldnt even know where to start.  I only got this far by painstakingly comparing 4 files, and a lot of reading on the forum/wiki. 

I got the Hack you said all done in this file.  My LC-1 is being retarded with the 8 flash error.  I got it to work for a few seconds, but that was it.  I have yet to get the readiness for the 02 to pass yet though.  I think I have done everything I have read on the forum still NADA for that last one.  Heres my hacked file.

I started with the N.VR stage 2++ file and tweeked it to work for my 2000 S4 in Arizona with 91oct. The file has the folowing changes

Mbox
bosch maf
91oct timing
rev limit is 7200
boost spikes at 21psi and tapers to 16psi at redline
no cats and rear o2's
no egts
antilag is set at 4000rpm
no lift shift is set to 5500rpm
overboost protection kfdluls set to 1275 in all blocks
checksums are ok.

my mods are ssac turbo back with no cats, K&N intake and EVOMS DV's. My car pulls really hard and is a blast to drive. big thanks to N.VR for making the orginal file. here are a few vids of my car with the no lift shift and antilag in action. i will be dynoing it soon and will post my results. just a reminder you will be using this file at your own risk. im not resposable for any car failures you might have.
enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6BZ7UWaVpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rket-MkubQI&feature=related


Dyno runs 338 TQ and 274 HP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRIlemCqv6c&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H3ls76x64A&feature=youtube_gdata_player


Edit:  I posted an updated file on page 3 that has fuel corrections so disregared the file in this first post thx.

Nice! Thanks for sharing!

Your video's made me smile ;D she sounds badass.

thank you very much. I love how it sounds at WOT it makes peoples heads turn when I fly bye them haha....

cool videos!

What conditions have to be met for it to engage? I flashed it to my car, but couldn't get the anti-lag or no lift shift to work.

For antilag the clutch pedal must be pressed and the the gas pedal held at WOT or to the floor. For no lift shift gas pedal must be pressed more than 90% so I keep it to the floor and you have to be over 5500rpm and the clutch pedal pressed. Make sure that both of your clutch pedal positions of your clutch switche are working because if the 1st part of the switch is not working ALS and NLS will not work. A quick way to check the switch is to press the clutch with the engine at idle and see if your rpms change a little and your exhaust note also changes. If you don't notice a change than your switch is bad.

Can you post some logs of this file please?

I figured it was something with the switch - thanks.

I did some logging this morning. The stage 2 log was done after drving for 5 min and the second log stage2log2 was done after 40min of driving. outside temp was 52 F. I also did a log at 2500 rpms in 6th gear to see what my AFR is when cruising and it stays in the mid 13s so the fuel could use some tweeking to get it closer to 14.7 but im happy with how it runs now.

I was running a stg2 giac tune before I flashed this yesterday. I'm enjoying this tune a lot more than the giac. Definitely more aggressive and very smooth. I have noticed my gas mileage on the freeway has dropped considerably. Mpgs like to hang out around 20-23 in 6th gear at about 65mph (level ground). I'm Probably stating the obvious being a more aggressive tune than what I'm used to, but the giac would easily get 29-32. Thoughts?

As a thank you side note... 4 days ago I didn't have the slightest clue how to flash, use TunerPro RT, open bin files etc. It was a little scary reading/writing my ECU for the first time, but I successfully flashed this tune yesterday and created a backup for the giac tune I was running. Two flashes, both successful, no problems at all :)! Awesome forum! Fully subscribed!

The tune runs a little richer then stock all around do the the changes in the TQ maps...

I left it like this for safety and because while you CAN actually use this OTS, it's still best if you actually tweak it to your application... that's the while purpose of this site and why I posted what I did.

1. to give an alternative to bigger names
2. to learn

if people just come here for free files and not to learn, then so be it but you get what you get :)

Are yo running stock injectors on this file?, stock maf housing?

Yes I have stock fuel system.

Just curious what type of mpg are you seeing? Im barely getting 220 with mixed driving, where I used to get at least 250.

I average between 22.5 and 23mpg with mostly highway driving and around 280 per tank.  This file runs richer than most from what notorious VR says who made the original file.

do you spit flames while using anti lag? Apperently i set one off but me and a few friends tried to replicate it and couldnt  :'( LOL, might adjust the tune later on for 93 octane and adjust the a/f ratios a tad but overall two thumbs up dude!

Haha yes I will spit flames if the exhaust temp is pretty high such as after a 2nd or 3rd gear pull. You can see a few flames in 2 of the YouTube vids I posted. ;D  right on man im sure it would pull harder with 93oct and more timing. I wish AZ had 93 but instead we get shafted with 91. thx bro enjoy shooting fireballs like street fighter lol

Due to a million posts and threads on how to get this to work on a Tip, the attached file is the tune file from the original post ported over to L box (8D0907551L_0261207004_1037354145).

I have nothing to do with the tuning of this file, I do not endorse the use of it, and have no affiliation what so ever with it. I copied it over exactly as it was without any modification. I am not liable for it's use or misuse.

me7check v1.11 (c) mki, 06/2004-07/2011
Checking file schnell-Lbox_2.7T_stg2++_rev2.bin (size=1048576)
Reading Version Strings...
-> Bootrom Version = embedded in CPU, asume 05.12/05.32
-> EPK = 40/1/ME7.1/5/6005.01//22m/DstD1o/110700//
-> Contents of ECUID data table:
   - '0261207004'         (SSECUHN)
   - '1037354145'         (SSECUSN)
   - '8D0907551L  '       (VAG part number)
   - '0001'               (VAG sw number)
   - '2.7l V6/5VT     '   (engine id)
-> Contents of ECUID data table:
   - 'HW_MAN004'

-> No errors found. File is OK.   *********************

nice work... I was going to split this off, but I'd prefer to see people actually reading the threads if they're just going to come here and look for files to use... a little work and you will find gems like this.

I might try this on a friends car to see how it reacts w/ an auto tranny.

I put the car on a Dynamics AWD Dyno on monday and put down 338TQ and 275HP. I was really surprised at the torque and pretty happy with HP considering im still running stock intercoolers. here are the videos and the dyno printouts. for some reason my rev limiter didnt kick in and the dyno operater reved it to 7500 so I need to figure out what happened there. also my AFR did not go as rich as I would have liked and started to get close to the 13mark at redline. I should be seeing 11.8 AFR so there could be something going on with my fuel system but it could also be something in the tune that is not letting it go richer than 12.2afr. Anyone have any thoughts on the AFR?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRIlemCqv6c&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H3ls76x64A&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Did you log this run?

No I wish I did but I didn't have my laptop with me. The first run didn't have the af sensor in the exhaust but the second and 3rd did.

here are the log, done in 3rd gear 3 people in the car, preety hot out
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image001.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image002.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image005.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image007.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image008.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image009.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image010.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image012.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image013.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image015.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image027.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image043.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image045.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image047.png)
(dont know why its blank, makes no sense)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image048.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image051.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image053.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image055.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image057.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image061.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image062.png)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/redg22/4runs_15166_image063.png)

Logs like pretty good. I was asking to see if he had logs to explain his lean condition.

Your MAF readings are a little low though. Also, load is being limited in LDRLMX. Are you using ME7L?

Unless you have a wideband you won't have actual lambda values.

me7l? and yea i noticed maf was a little low but i thought it was bc i just put the new one in and hot weather.

Does anybody have an issue with the nls limiting boost? I have that issue with the 3-4 shift.

I have never noticed that. What is it limiting your boost at?

Not sure if you have a wideband in the car but to me your o2 voltages look a little lean for comfort (may want to take a look at the plugs) everything else looks fine

It limits it to 10psi which is weird. I'm going to log it to see what is going on.

i think this may have happened to me once or twice, not 100% sure though. But the tune pulls very well.

Hello dear corradovolksb, I have antilag is set at 4000rpm working fine, but no lift shift is set to 5500rpm does not work as I tried to roll, gas pedal I press 100% clutch - engine goes upto 7200rpm what can it be?
Thanks a lot for the file

If your antilag is working ok that means that your clutch switch is operating ok so thats good. your gas pedal needs to be pressed over 89% so I always keep it all the way to the floor. I would make sure that your pedal is not obstructed by your floor mat or anything else. other than that Im not sure what could be making it not operate. does it not operate at all?

your welcome Im working on a new version of the file so I will post it up when its done.

Throttle valve sensor 1 or Throttle valve angle must be at least 89% ?

mvb 3 looks like your at 100% so thats good and it should be activating your no lift shift. mvb 60 is showing your throttle body plate angle and they always are a mirror image of each other and will not show over 86% and 14% at wide open throttle and 14% and 86% with the pedal is not pressed. thats done as a fail safe for the fly by wire throttle body to let the ecm know if there is a problem. if the differance between the 2 numbers is too large the ecm will go into limp mode and you will not be able to accelerate. as for the no lift shift not activating try doing a throttle body adaption and trying it again. you could also have a clutch switch that is starting to fail and only working sometimes with the clutch is pressed. I cant remember what mvb it is but i think its 63 for clutch switch operation. make sure both values change when the clutch is pressed.

Been meaning to post those logs of the nvrwith antilag/nls will log tomm afternoon. Had car issues with booost leaks so it held me back, but hopefully ill post tomm.

So I fugured out why my AFR was running lean when on the dyno. The lamfa axis in my file was at the stock values and not set to the 0-100 like it should have been. Im posting it up the changed file now. I have been running the file with the correct lamfa axis for the past week and my MPG have also increesed to 26 from 23 so thats a plus.

What if I wanted to add a injector scaling to this file? For like some bosch ev14 52lb injectors. Or add maf scaling for a bigger maf? The one I have in mind is the one that comes in the vast performance fueling kit which I believe is a 90mm maf housing using my stock bosch maf sending unit.

^^ nice catch :)

Thanks I should have caught it before I posted it but that's learning right haha

meh. no thanks

Here's some more logs from this tune running on my car, I don't believe I'm running as healthy as I should be. BTW, my brother was driving so I'm not sure why he didn't rev out to 6500 :/.


(http://i.imgur.com/scslt.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/g8vig.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/u6MiX.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/xuZxd.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/J5jXL.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/7Zeqp.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/mSaZ3.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/3ph7o.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/t2af7.png)

Lastly, I was confused here, how can duty cycle ever be greater than 100%??
(http://i.imgur.com/awBGD.png)

You're out of injector... got a wideband?

Honestly, though, except for that, the logs look good. timing is good, boost looks good, your knock is under control.

I could grab a wideband, but I'm assuming it would do no good in a post cat o2 sensor location?
I wonder if my injectors/fuel filter could be clogged? Or if they are just maxing out.. In that case has anyone run slightly uprated injectors on this tune?

Btw nyet, thanks so much for ecuxplot, I can't believe I was wasting hours of time previously plotting with excel lol.

It will be off by a bit, but not much. Most dynos use tail pipe sniffers and they're pretty accurate.


Nothing in your log would indicate that... you're open loop so whatever the ECU is requesting isn't going to be affected by that. Bank1 looks a bit lean, but that could be O2 sensor - you can never trust narrow bands.

(http://i.imgur.com/3ph7o.png)


This. They are maxed. You could run bigger injectors, but honestly your log looks pretty good as is, and you can't really run much more boost on k03s.


You're VERY welcome! Please feel free to post feedback, bug reports, questions, etc. BTW you might want to grab the latest version, you are using an older version where the colors start repeating (see your knock voltage logs...) Also, the latest version has presets so you can batch export a bunch of graphs at once

Thanks for the link man, I was wondering this same question. Even if it's not perfectly accurate, I guess I'll at least get a pretty good idea.


Thanks for the log feedback nyet ;). I grabbed the version off of the link in your sig, is the newer version in your SVN repository? I only saw a direct link to 0.9r4.0.

0.9r4.0 is it.. there are a few more checkins into the svn but theyr'e all cosmetic.

it's 275 WHP or at engine?

I put down 275hp and 348tq before the fueling changes. It feels stronger now.  ;D

275 engine hp look a little low for a stage 2?

Yes it was a lil low but it was because I was running lean. I havnt had a chance to make it to the Dyno yet now that my AFR is in the 11.8 range. Plus I'm still running stock intercoolers.

Sorry it was wheel hp and tq. I forgot to say that.

Hey checked over this file for a customer, there are some errors, look like minor oversights or accidental map changes that could cause damage and or problems.   

Some timing stuff with cam change is real weird.

None the less its a cool file and thanks for taking the time, people should just Def look through it all before flashing.

oh man I wasnt aware that there was any errors in the file. what specific errors did you find? If you let me know I will look into them and fix whatever is needed. thank you for the heads up. I did add some 1's in kfnw thinking it would help with cam advance. should i not have done that?

not the way that you did it aleast, the way you have it it will be switching the came state back and forth in the fat of the power band, thats no good.

also there it some serious flaws in the KR based fueling like the zero row for no knock, just go over them and you will catch it.

trust me I have seen WAY worse. :P

as per snow troopers recommendatoins I have changed the cam change over back to stock I also made changes to the readiness code so that it will pass emmissions on the 2000 s4. i looked over the fueling and i do not have the KR fueling activated and thats why it is not configured in KFLAMKRL. If anyone else has any other suggestions by all means let me know.

Some stuff is on and some is off, its weird, I compared the file to other people's including other NVR files and its like when you built off a als/nls file you got some bugs.

I tried looking for a stg2 Hitachi tune for 91oct, but I was not able to find any. I particularly like your tune because I have the same exhaust setup with a FMIC and a modded airbox . I bought the car complete stock with a stg1 GIAC tune, but i feel it completely falls on its face with this tune. Being able to tune has been something ive always been interested in excited that i came across this website!

Do you happen to know the threads that have the other stg2 tunes that i can use to practice my flashing? Im sure its probably easy.

Thanks again for the help you are giving me, its really appreciated!

Nice Tune (just by looking at it on the computer)..

Does the Lamba follow directly The changes LAMFA? Great idea to change the axis data :)
If it follows, wouldnt it be better to got a bit leaner?

Did you change MLHFM of this tune step by step for leaning / enriching problematical areas? Or does it differ because of the boschmaf?

Regards...

Thank you it has been a work in progress for a some time now and I have got it dialed in pretty good. the only bummer is that its super hot in az right now and my stock intercoolers heat soak really fast haha. i just have to save up for new ones.

I just got my AEM wideband o2 sensor and will be installing it today so I will be able to tell you for sure if the requested AFR is folowing LAMFA like it should be. according to my logs I have done in the past it is very close to the 11.8afr. yes it would make a little more power if it was leaner but alot of research by other tuners suggest that 11.8afr is optimal for the S4 and plus i like the safety of more fuel under WOT.

the change of the axis was NVR's doing on his file that I started with so I cant take credit for that  :)
but changing the axis must be done so that LAMFA will work right and not just dump fuel when you are cruising like the stock valve is set up for.

no I copied over the MLHFM values and all of the other MAF values from a stock abox to the Mbox so that the bosch maf can be used. 

Oh, now I see MLHFM is similar to mine D-box (boschmaf) Maf.

Normally / physically an afr near 12.5 should be better, but I see, you didnt have any egts, right?
So you have to be sure, it doesnt get too lean...

Hot in AZ? I wish it would be sumemr as it was supposed to be here in Germany.. here its nice for engines.. 16° C...

Ya a 12.5 afr would make a lil more power but ya no egt's so I like the being sure I dont lean out.
Oh ya it's super hot 112F the past few days. Wish it was that nice here. Heatsoak is a bitch haha.

I'm in AZ too and I don't even want to put the engine back in my car right now... it's rarely below 100 in my garage right now. ;D

looks like a few of us getting killed by the heat.

ya for sure today was really bad with the super high humidity and 107F temp my s4 does not like it at all.

Here are some goofy logs running a derivative of this file.  (Tweaked for Bosch MAF and coded out rear O2's)  A couple of times I've dropped into limp mode but I was able to get this pull logged.  I'm running 93 with intake and catback.

I'm still learning how to interpret most all of this stuff but I thought I'd throw this out for comments.  What's the most common cause of actual boost over then undershooting requested boost?

Thanks, all!

Improperly tuned PID for your setup

How about that WGDC?  I haven't seen enough examples to recognize good from bad. I want to spot and fix any potential hardware issues before starting tweaking things.

(http://i.imgur.com/wPnZ8.png)

Honestly, it isn't terrible. I wouldn't touch it until you clean up the requested boost. You have a notch there due to cam changeover (see tuning page on s4wiki).

then, relog, and we'll take another look

Thanks for looking at this. I'll take a run at smoothing out the boost. I'm planning on dialing it back a bit anyway.  One of my turbos is buzzing a bit at WOT and I'd like to hang on to them at least until I get all my stage 3 parts collected! 

KFLDIMX ?

I'd say insufficient D at low lde; wg recovers too soon as lde approaches zero.

Used my own version of this tune (1psi lower peak boost, no change in high RPM boost, slightly increased timing due to W/M) at my recent track day. Car ran very strong and fast - hung with E92 M3 and RS4 on the straights.

Only minor problem was I blew my turbo after 75 track miles ;)  But I had it coming, car has 100k and 1000+ track miles.  I still love this tune for street driving, but unfortunately I'll be pulling back my boost a lot for track days in the future. Was a blast those 75 miles I got in though!

:)

Thinking of trying this one out! Looks real good... does it work on an "A" box with a bosch MAF?

And that boost level seems a little high for me... how can i change it down to 19PSI?

here ya go. I changed the boost to max at 19psi and drops to 13psi by redline. launch control is set to 3500rpm. timing is the same as my other files and is safe for 91oct. enjoy.

Your file, but for 93 oct & boost spike to 22.

Attached.

*disclamer, nobody on here is responsible for blowing turbos with this*

Right on thx for posting it up. How's ur car liking the tune?

here is an L box file converted to bosch maf that I have added anti lag and no lift shift and a few other changes for 93oct and 22psi boost spike and taper to 13psi. antilag is set to 4krpm and NLS is above 5krpm. It should work for anyone with a B box that wants a stage2++ file but may require a recode of the cluster. Flash at your own risk.

like ddillenger said it is easy to add normall launch control. check it out here. http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=151.0



your right i need to not post so many revisons.  thank you i have spent a good amount of time adjusted all of the right values to make sme good power.

Think of it this way-noone would take the time to learn if they could just grab a file and go. The number of continuous users on this site is pathetic compared to the number of registered users. Give a man a fish, he eats for a day. Teach a man how to fish.....

I got smited for that comment :)

Again, good job corrado.

Very true there isn't an incentive to learn if you don't have to. Haha I don't think you can get smited from stating the truth. I will always do what I can to help out sometimes is forget that this site is also ment for people to learn how to DIY. Thanks again you contribute a lot so thank you for that.

Could you please explain why you deleted the egt's? I'm genuinely interested. Thanks! :-)

The only (legitimate) reason to code out the egt's is if they're bad.

Like ddillenger said It was because I have a bad egt and I don't want to spend the money to replace it to have it fail again because they are know to fail. I have compensated for them being coded out by running a little more rich then normal to keep the egt in check.

So, if I have good EGT sensors and wanted to enable this in your tune, would I just edit the LAMBTS table?

I believe you have to revert these
(s4 tuning wiki)
EGT

Removal
If you want to disable your EGT sensors:[41] (Note that my old M-box xdf is wrong[42] for CDATR/ATS. Please use these offsets.)
CDATR (0x18196) - Configuration byte diagnosis exhaust gas temperature regulation
CDATS (0x18197) - Configuration byte diagnosis exhaust gas temperature sensor
There is anecdotal evidence[43] that this will not allow you to completely remove the EGT sensors; keeping dead ones connected might be necessary, or:
CATR (0x192CA) - Configuration byte exhaust gas temperature regulation[44]
Alternately, setting both of these to their maximum (1229) may help: [45]
TABGSS (0x1C514) and TABGSS2 (0x1C516) - Desired exhaust gas temperature for EGT regulation
You shouldn't have to touch these, but are included here for completeness:
CLAATR - Error class exhaust gas temperature regulation
CLAATR2 - Error class exhaust gas temperature regulation bank 2
CLAATS - Error class exhaust gas temperature sensor
CLAATS2 - Error class exhaust gas temperature sensor bank 2

Yeah, that makes sense, but isn't there also something that would have been changed to enrich the AFR because of the EGT removal?

IIRC, no.

In general though, if you are changing your file, you may as well go through all the changes and know what they do.

I'm not a fan of altering files that I don't understand 100%

Too many ways of doing the same thing. Thinking you understand someones logic is dangerous.

If it were me (it was me at one point), I'd flash it as is, and start practicing and getting comfortable with the process. You really should get galletto up and working, you're going to brick the ecu sooner or later with a failed flash.

FWIW, this is a very decent file.

Agreed 100%!!

You posted this tune In an Lbox format with ALS. How would you use that in a TipTronic?

You'd use it like a boss. lol

I think porting it over to l-box was done primarily for the tune, not the AL/NLS

Ya that makes a lot more sense lol. Thanks.

Boost at WOT follows ldrxn. To find out psi from ldrxn:

LDXRXN*10+300

so if ldrxn is 192:

192*10=1920+300=2220. That number is in millibars.

2220mb=2.2bar=31.9psi (absolute). To determine manifold pressure you subtract the BAR (barometric pressure) of your area (roughly 14.5psi @ sealevel).

31.9psi-14.5psi=17.4psi of boost pressure.

In order for the values in the compare bin to make any sense at all it has to be not only the same VAG number, but also the same software revision.

Drove v3 to work today, seems nice and smooth. Think it's going into limp due to the emissions stuff so will look through it all and see if I can code a few things out, I'm very new to this so please be gentle with your answers when I ask. (http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g278/adey1984/8077026B-7DAC-43BF-A2C3-297ED11F4163-311-00000093AAE07021_zpsd49d0433.jpg)

This is what I've got on there at the mo

http://youtu.be/Kg5ajFpstwE I'm such a child

How is the ecu coded? (softcoding). The 1650 is normal on MY 2000 cars that are using m-box software, but the others point to either incorrect coding (unlikely) or a plug out of place (the red one under the ecu box).

I will take a look at the connection but I'm in a euro 98 s4, it doesn't have some emissions stuff if any of that makes a difference?

Soft code is 05712?

Soft code on my old ecu is 05611, should I adjust it back to this?

05712 is euro a6 with abs and esp. You need to recode it to 05611 (euro s4 without ESP). That should solve a lot of your can-bus problems. You'll still need to 0 CW_CAN_R (located @ 0x12C7A, original value 32 IIRC) to eliminate the p1650 error.

There's a possibility the ecu won't accept your original softcoding, as the M-box is a NA (North American) flash. If your changes won't take effect (softcoding doesn't change after selecting DO IT), use 06611, which is functionally identical (the only difference being the 06, which denotes a NA flash)

06611 accepted will try the car shortly, cheers

hmm, checked all connections and soft codded but faults still there. is there a chance i need to re-code the abs unit too?

plug in my 551c and it all goes away

Which faults?

You can click "copy codes" then paste them... you dont have to do the silly screen shot junk

and btw, you can screen shot using "print screen" button.. taking a picture of your monitor is also rather silly

Now I know for next time, think I really need to start from scratch still has the same faults as in the silly picture but its misfiring up to 4k, thought it was my exhaust hitting the diff mount but slap the trusty c box in and it goes away

Increasing boost has a way of bringing existing deficiencies to the surface. That's why it's important to verify everything is in good mechanical order first (new plugs with proper gap, 1 heat range colder, good VCG's, etc).

its currently running about 1.1bar on the cbox smooth as you like. will go over everything and give it some new gaped plugs to make sure, ill start looking into working from the ground up. cheers for all the help tho guys, great to have the pros helping out the noobs  ;D

Hay guys sorry I haven't posted in awhile been a crazy few weeks. I'm running .015 in gap on my plugs to keep from having misfires under full boost. Once I do my tsi coil conversion I will set my gaps back to .025 or maybe even .030

.015? WOW. You have some baddddd coils.

today i will try gaping some new plugs closer but the issue isnt just on boost for me.

Ya I'm thinking they are junk also I get a random cyl 2 misfire if it idles for too long so I'm hoping the tsi coils with the right value changes in my file will help.

You will need to gap your plugs to down to get rid of the misfires under boost. Not sure what boost your giac file is running but mine hits and hold 20psi the will taper off to 13 so if your plugs have too large if a gap the higher cylinder pressure will blow out your spark causing the misfires. I went through the same problem with my S4.

I can't believe I didn't think of that. Yea the giac file is boosting around 17. And the gap is at .28. Just curious, what did you gap yours at , 25?

Thanks in advance. Most defin appreciate.

I'm running .015 but you can try .020.


Right on that's good it fixed your misfires. That's cool your running an a6 ecu. I'm running an M box on my 2000 s4  and just had to recode it to eliminate the Abs fault because the 00 doesn't have ESP like the 01 does.

what part did you recode? im on an EU a6 ecu with what im guessing is a NA m box map (yours lol) with soft coding for a non esp equipped NA s4 but still getting the codes listed above. just switched the CW_CAN_R to 0 also a few other things, like tank vent. need to get the checksums done to see if its got rid of the evap fault. its not there if i switch back the euro c box so i think it may be something to do with the NA in EU car mix mash. might see if theres any soft coding changes i can make to the abs and airbag controllers them selves. if anyone has the soft coding for the NA versions that would be great?

I recoded my ecm. email me the file you made the changes to and ill correct the checksums for you.

cheers bud, whats your email?

J/w what kind of plugs are you guys running? I tuned my car with the V3 version of this file and it was misfiring baaad. Though I was probably do for a a plug change, the gap was definitely too big also. I was running platinums and switched over to coppers gapped at .032 for now (I know they won't last as long obviously), but I read that they're better overall for higher boost/ higher temps..etc..

you should pass emissions with my file all peramiters are set to set readiness code and will show all 0's. the only why you wouldnt pass is if you live in a state that does a full inspection and notices that you dont have cats or rear o2's. Im in Arizona and they dont check they just check for readiness code being set.

Bit as in bit of a byte

1,2,4,8,16,32,64,128

So, I have new info on the plugs that I just put in...and I would no longer recommend autolite....

The only reason I put them in was because I was anxious and the store didn't have the ng's in...back to ngks .

Before installed...

(http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/shane122108/IMAG0003.jpg)

After I started getting a constant misfire on Cylinder 3 slightly later....

(http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/shane122108/IMAG0002.jpg)


Now that's a spark snuffer!

Oh man that's a good example of how not to use autolite plugs in VAG cars with boost. For sure run NGK or Bosch. 

You're lucky the porcelain stayed intact. It could have broken apart and been eaten.

What gap did you go with?

I know...I was lucky...but yeah I went with NGK BKR7E's this time. Gapped at .030 and it runs this file really well.

I run .028, bkr7eix's. Zero misfires (although I have 2.0 coils waiting installation when the weather improves).

Yeah, that's good to here the ix's are working good for you, I think I may go to those. What are 2.0 coils?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/452609-Teaser-2-0T-Coil-packs

I've been running this file for a few weeks now. Not sure whats going on with my car but in the higher gears it's boosting up towards 25+ and misfiring. I feel like I have to feather it to keep the boost around 20. Not sure if it's a hardware problem on my end or what. Also my misfires finally went away once I gapped my plugs around .025.

Another observation. If I use the antilag prior to launch sometimes it will limit my boost to 8psi, i'm assuming this is limp mode. I turn the key off then back on and its gone. I'm not sure what the NLTS is supposed to do when I stay in the gas pedel but it seems like it just revs to the moon then my clutch re-engages and it's good. It hasn't hit redline but pretty close.

Yeah, the search function on here, will just flat out fall it its face. It won't find keywords that I know for a fact are sometimes even the titles of posts...

go to google, type your search terms, and follow them with site:nefariousmotorsports.com

example

kfzw site:nefariousmotorsports.com

how about you all start here: http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning

I might be being stupid but can you point out where in the wiki it says what I need to do and what adjustment does what? All I can see is it saying this is what I have tweak from here. I don't want to break my car trying things

i do see that the wiki was modified today though so ill have another read

Logging should tell you everything you need to know.

Describe what is wrong in detail. Post logs that show what is wrong.

Explain what you want to be different.

As above in my post, my car is producing 24psi on ko3s during launch. I'd like to turn it down. Decent logs from the car are hit and miss due to my cluster disconnecting the coms all the time. Making changes is a pain aswell as its a bench only job (due to cluster) so try to get it as close to what I want before doing a flash

Don't bother doing any more tuning until you have a reliable way of logging.

well my next port of call is to try a direct k line to the obd port, good idea? if not ill have to try and get some later gen clocks in there

got called up yesterday seeing if i wanted to jump on a dyno day today. so i took my s4 down with a tweaked version of this map. its a great place to start, did a quick log but didnt save it :-/ as it was a quick car on car off setup, did a pull and it showed the smallest amount of timing correction (2 degrees) on initial boost spike so i decided to a quick change using unisettings, didnt have the time or equipment to do a proper map change, but i added 4% to the primary fueling and 5degs of timing overall. pulled 355.2ps and 546nm of torque, or 350.3bhp and 403lbf.ft @ the fly, was only a quick adjustment with no real time but logs showed still not much timing pull atall. great map to start from props to all the people who have helped put this together, id already been working on the timing map slowly but it looks like it can still take a lot more from where i am. just need to figure out why im getting a second boost spike at 3800rpm, might see if i can hire the dyno sometime to get some proper work underway

Right on those are great numbers. What is your hardware setup? That's good you were able to add some timing and get some really strong numbers.

cant wait to get some proper dyno time, i really think it can take a fair bit more timing in there. im running a modded airbox with a replacement air filter, 3 inch toyosport downpipes into 2.5 inch decats and twin toyosport cat back,  hyperboost dumpvalves and rs4 intercoolers. think i might fit an rs4 fuel pump next but thats it so far. i will upload the map once ive got a bit further with it, i think the slight boost spike at 3850-4100rpm could be something to do with the cam change over? but not really sure until i get some proper logs

What are your wheel HP and TQ numbers I just noticed you gave flywheel numbers. Sounds like your doing it right with your hardware thumbs up to that. The spike is probably your cam change over it has been covered pretty extensively on a lot of forums.

i dont have them figures just the calculated flywheel power on my printout sorry.

I've been running your LBox tune one my 2000 tip and its smooth as butter lol. I love it. Those dyno number look pretty good as well. I wonder how this would hold up against an e46 m3.

Right on that's awesome your liking the tune. Depends on the m3's mods. A stage 2 s4 can hang with a mildly modded one. There is a bunch of YouTube vids of b5 s4s racing E46 M3s. I pulled on a 08 M5 with the v10 and he wasn't very happy about it haha.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1r96xAIGgQc here she is. there are a few m3s locally so ill try and pick on one lol. ive adjusted the map a little since yesterdays run im happy to share what ive got too, its had a little more mid range boost added in and drives and pulls very well as well as some timing here and there. im happy to post it up here but i dont know where to host the file? would also love someone with experience to take a look at it for me?

If it's a spinoff of this file, post it here. No need to host, just upload it as an attachment.

this is it, any comments would be great, is working fantastic on my car and really pushing the numbers.

L box version for the tip guys who want a direct download with rear o2's and egt's disabled

========================================================
ME7check v1.12 (c) mki, 06/2004-05/2012
Checking file out.bin (size=1048576)
Reading Version Strings...
-> Bootrom Version = embedded in CPU, asume 05.12/05.32
-> EPK = 40/1/ME7.1/5/6005.01//22m/DstD1o/110700//
-> Contents of ECUID data table:
   - '0261207004'         (SSECUHN)
   - '1037354145'         (SSECUSN)
   - '8D0907551L  '       (VAG part number)
   - '0001'               (VAG sw number)
   - '2.7l V6/5VT     '   (engine id)
-> Contents of ECUID data table:
   - 'HW_MAN004'

-> No errors found. File is OK.   *********************

^^ nice :)

I'm getting the bad studder from 3000-4000 ish... It's overboosting to close to 25 in the gears it's happening. Any thoughts?

What is your elevation? If you close to sea level you should lower ldrxn a little bit and see if that helps. I'm at 1500feet and that's what I set the boost curve for.

I'm in Colorado Springs not sure of elevation...

Not sure if its any help but I'm about 30ft above sea level where I am, I took the car nearly 1400ft up yesterday on a drive through the welsh mountains and didn't experience any over boosting or anything. Gave it death too as there are some nice roads out there

Hi all,

I successfully flashed this to a 2001 Euro Allroad 6mt.  It works with no fault codes so far.  Edit:  I have have P1473 evap fault codes when started from cold.  I am guessing it is due to NA / Euro differences.  Will try to figure out how to code out evap system.

As for the tune......WOW!  Smooth and the pull is superb.  I have done some logs so will try to figure them out and tweak.  Definitely need to drop the peak boost a bit as my 100k K03's were screaming a bit with this tune.  Also im running 98 ron so may see if there is any room for timing tweaks.

Thanks for the super tune and Im looking forward to tinkering and customizing the car and tune together.  Just need to figure out the best way to fit the RS4 intercoolers and get some K04's before mine blow up!

i have continued tweaking my version of this map and today ran a 12.7 @ 106mph with a 16mph headwind  ;D

oh and it turns out there was split in my tb boot! shit really, took the car out again today reving higher than normal as i was shifting at 6500, every time i went past that i was getting negative deviation! thought i might of been asking too much of the old turbos, nope hole in the tb boot! shoulda checked it yesterday after racing, so might even be a little more in it at its current stage of tune, such a good base to work from, thanks

Hey guys,
This file has been running pretty well in my car for a while now. I notice something though, when I use the Launch, it will backfire a good bit...is that indicative of it going too rich, possibly because of a small boost leak...or DVs not holding enough boost?

Thanks

It "backfires" because it's got antilag. The timing is retarded so as to dump raw fuel into the exhaust manifolds, where it ignites and spools the turbos. Tell me you didn't flash this to a car with catalytic converters? You really should understand what you're flashing and what it does.

Timing boost and fuelling. Currently trying to work on getting better mpg at cruise as I'm on the motorway every day. I also changed the settings for the anti lag in a basic way so I now have adjustable launch boost based on throttle position. 0psi to about 23psi, Works well at the strip. Anti lag does KILL spark plugs though, be carefull.

That's one of the best ideas I've heard...how is it working for you? Would love to get your current file if it is working out good for you. The idea of variable launch boost is awesome.

works very well, i just keep an eye on the boost gauge and keep increasing it untill i find the best point for hooking up. i havent tested my current tune with adjustments ive made yet. i might start another thread with my version on it.

i get a shave over 30 mpg at 75ish mph sitting at 65mph nets me circa 35-36mpg. thats uk mpg though but the same for you should be 25mpg and 30mpg

How can i adjust the anti lag a little lower? i have tuner pro and an xdf file that shows all the parameters, i just dont know how to lace them together and the steps after that. Also when i no lift shift the car loses all its power for a quick a few seconds
Thanks

In the anitlag folder click on the scaler for the launch rpm and change it to the rpm that you would like to launch at. do you have the mtx plugin for correcting the checksums? if you dont than you will need them corrected before you can flash the file or you will only be able start the car once and wont start after that untill you reflash the file.

You know, interesting thing about this (long digression ahead):

From the DAY I first chipped the car (i bought it new) at round 20k miles it had problems making timing. I thought it was the tune, nothing more.

then i got AWE stage 3 at around 40k... and had TONS of issues. spent months with garrett et al who would try to fix it... this was back in the day before
anybody was self tuning. I got frustrated because my car never made power compared to other cars with mostly the same setup. It would do fine on race gas, just not 91oct.

I got so frustrated I was like, shit, i know the issues, i know what timing/afr/boost i want, i just need to figure out how to do it myself (because GIAC completely failed to get me anywhere close to what I knew should work). But obviously, there was literally NO publicly available information on anything. Googling for "KFMIRL" resulted in 0 hits. ZERO. When was the last time you got zero hits on a search?

So. timing/afr/boost. How hard could it be? 5 years later, and a shitton of work put into it, and i had a rough outline of the map locations and a rudimentary understanding of ME7.

I put it all the the s4 wiki, and soon after, tony started this site :)

But with all that, my car would still not make timing. So I thought, fuck maybe it's me. Maybe i'm still clueless and im missing something. So i start to tune a few other friends cars. Suddenly, their car is making more power than me. So now im like WTF! I figured i'd lower the compression, and at worst, ill get close to what I was seeing on other cars. Heads off. While they're out, I have them checked....

So i'm thinking, something bad happened either very early in the life of the car, or Hans was drunk when he assembled my heads.

So the theory is that the additional valve train noise may have been tricking the ECU into thinking i had knock when I did not... or.. something. No clue.

One thing to keep in mind is not engines are going to be built 100%... with the conservative stock power rating it's easy for the factory to allow sometimes large deviations in engine consistency.  Generally VW/Audi/BMW are pretty good but it does happen that sometimes they're just not built as good as the rest, or like you said in a previous life/owner didn't do something right and the engine/something suffered.

A good way to test if the noisy valvetrain is producing phantom knock is to wrap the knock sensors in teflon tape and try one third gear log to see if there's an improvement. I've tried this on other cars before with success. I'm leaning more towards the worn out valve guides leading to an oil contamination issue which was lowering your octane rating. This is the more likely scenario especially since you said it would go away with race gas. If it went away with race gas, it couldn't be phantom knock causing the problem. Anyway, nice story. Glad to see things evolving around here. You guys should be proud of yourselves.

Wow. Excellent point. The thought never occurred to me.

NOTORIOUS VR

Thanks so much for sharing your work, i have flashed my s4 with this file which had 280 000 miles on it, even after 5K miles with this tune car feels and drives like a 800cc bike, got all the 22 psi of boost :)

Enjoy.. but you're a brave man to do this @ 280k miles :P

Attached is NOTORIOUS VR's M-Box Stage II++ file modified for use with a Bosch MAF. Although the original file already had rear O2s partially coded out... I went back through and completely coded the rear O2s out in addition to complete code-out of the EGTs.

For Bosch MAF conversion, the following was modified:
MLOFS: 0.00 -> 200.00
KFKHFM: OEM A-Box values
MLHFM: OEM A-Box values
00012C7A: 20 -> 00

For rear O2 code-out, the following was modified in addition to the already-changed values for CDKAT, CDHSH, CDHSHE, and CDLSH:
CWDLSAHK: 3.00 -> 0.00
CDLATV: 1.00 -> 0.00
CDLASH: 1.00 -> 0.00
CDLSHV: 1.00 -> 0.00
CLRHK: 72.00 -> 5.00
CWKONLS: 51.00 -> 17.00
00011A72: 03 -> 00
00010C7A: 00 -> C0
00010C7B: F3 -> FF

For EGT code-out, the following was modified:
CDATR: 1.00 -> 0.00
CDATS: 1.00 -> 0.00
000192CA: 01 -> 00

I also would have added anti-lag/no-lift-shift, but most of the M-Box files I've added it to had values of F3, F8, F3, and 8A for addresses 0008B3A6, 0008B3A7, 0008B3A8, and 0008B3A9. Instead, NOTORIOUS VR's original file had values of 34, 23, 9D, and 02. I ran into this on another M-Box file, and I believe it may have to do with being the original M-Box revision. Regardless, I didn't feel safe modifying the values as they weren't familiar to me and won't do so until someone says it's okay to do so.

i downloaded adeyspec's 2.2 version of this tune and i made change to it to work with rs4 injectors i also increased the boost by redline to 16 psi and set anti lag to 4000rpm i flashed it to my freinds dbox and got p1650 and evap missng dtc's i did set CW_CAN_R to 0 but still got the p1650.the car has k04 rs4 turbos rs4 injectors rs4 intercoolers  rs4 cams ported cylinder heads a bosch 044 fuel pump and no cats.the car is a blast we raced a m3 rs4 b7 and rs4 b5 with chip to 420hp no one was a match for us i was so suprised how this tune worked its amazing :D i dont know how much hp the car has now because we have no dyno in my country but its so fast max speed on highway was 300km/h at 7000rmp on 6th gear :p i want to thank every one here for the help and original maps here my version of the tune if it could be useful to anyone.

anyonehave this for hitachi maf?

Here you are...

thanks so much! :) this is with no o2/egt correct? thanks

never mind, i see it is, sorry slowly learning! :)

No problem...

Hello guys,

Can anyone PLEASE make this map for a G box ?

If it works well I will pay!

You can use this file, or you can swap the data from the M file to the G file

Can anyone turn this into E85 file, i have set of 52# injectors and 255 fuel pump and E85 gas station begging to be used?

im not positive but i think 52# inj's are a bit small for e85.. im running 60#s on ko4s pump.. theres a bunch of work and tuning to achieve e85..

Hey did you ever get to doing more work on ur file. I'd like to get a look at ur current flash/file now.

hey, i tried this file that adeyspec uploaded "551MSTG2.2.bin" on my abox ecu and it won't idle properly, runs really ruff.

s4, abox, 6sp, bosch maf,

only mods are cai,exhaust...

is this file set for a hitachi maf or a different ecu?

thanks

the file you loaded is most likely for a hitachi maf.. you should really read more before just flashing anything.

thank you generic reply. funny thing is i've read it all, every post prior to your comment,. and reviewed all the maps and understand that there is a difference between abox/mbox/lbox manual and trip, and bosch maf vs hitachi not to mention 92mm. i don't just flash anything without looking into it first.

and i always verify the checksum's to ensure i don't brick my ecu, and if i do brick my ecu, i bootmode benchflash it.

back to my question again, andys map doesn't specify if its a bosch or hitachi but notes that its a derived version frm vr map. which is a bosch map with hitachi versions also floating around in this topic. user braxs4 then asked andy in the topic if there is a hitachi version of this map which lead me to believe that its a bosch map. regardless i've also tried povgride742 derived version "Modified M-Box (NVR Stage II++) - Bosch MAF.bin"  which clearly states its bosch and i still have the same issue. won't idle correctly, run's ruff.

i really wanted to know if this is caused by the a box vs m box cause i can't see why it's not working.

If the MAF data matches, it doesn't matter. A-box software will run an M-box car, M-box software will run a A-box car. If there is any doubt, open the file in tunerpro, check MLOFS. 200=Bosch 0=Hitachi. MLHFM will start at 1xx for Bosch, and 0 for Hitachi.

yep its mlofs is at 200kg/h and its mlhfm tables start from 142.70 which means its bosch......

so this still brings me to the original question of why won't it idle properly but my other tune will idle and run fine "attached" ?

maybe load both files and compare differences, otherwise download a different reversion of this file

so I reloaded this file on my ecu today with nefmoto, it starts and runs but its only boosting up to 5psi. is there a revision of mbox that doesn't see n75 properly?

once I realised that it seems like its in limp mode I reloaded my other file back on and did some logging. i just can't get my head around this... why won't it run on my s4?

^^^ I actually have seen this before on someone else's car with a completely different file (H box file on a different ECU)... not sure what causes it though.

i've got some spare ecu's laying around, mainly 4B0907551P,4B0907551K,4B0907551L. I'm going to bench flash them and see which one is compatible. I'll worry about the softcoding cluster/abs/manual later, thats easy. i just wanna see this vr map function.

All of the ecu's you listed are compatible.

lol, when i run any of the ecu's with my car i can only boost up to 5psi. but my only error is p1473 ldp open.

i get this error with all my maps regardless of vr or my one i'm running. i'm thinking either i don't have a leak detection pump " I'm in Sydney Australia "
or my ldp is faulty. but could this cause the car not to boost? cause if i reload my map onto any of these ecu's it will boost to 20psi.

You need logs. Without them, there is no reason to talk further I'm afraid.

i'll make some logs. will post soon

Does anyone have adeyspec's map but for an Hitachi maf? And (not essential) to run on 93-94 oct? Attached the original below, thanks in advance

Why adeyspecks over nvr's? It runs great.   

Going to load nvr's on now just seems as though from what I've read adeyspecs is running a bit higher boost and from the videos looks like hes had very good results (Y)

Awesome.  If you correct the values or find someone to help post it up. There's  a few threads on going from bosch to hitachi Maf. Looks like a single simple edit.  I'm not sure I'd want to toss more boost at ko3s though.  Swapping to 93 you'd probably just advance timing another 3 deg "keep below -7" or so and log CF but I'd wait for someone that's been around longer to reply.  I'd think nvr's tune maxes out the ko3s safely. 

Wouldn't want to risk doing it myself when I don't fully understand it! Spent hours researching on this forum and on the wiki its a lot to take in! Only got my A6 today the last thing I want is a bricked ecu after 1 day lol. Off to load nvr's tune fingers crossed all will go well

Yeah read read read and grab a spare ecu. Always me7check. Make sure you have a good voltage supply.

Would I be right in saying to change a map from a bosch to Hitachi maf its just a case of adjusting MLOFS from 200 to 0 and then doing the checksums, or is it as I fear a lot more complicated? Still haven't got my head around checksums yet. Again thanks in advance

Not sure on the exact values but yes you get the point. There's a thread on here if you search for the maf conversion.  Pretty basic

MLOFS - MAF offset. For Bosch MAFs, it should be 200. For Hitachi, 0.

And earlier my -7 comment was for logging CF not timing. 

Got NVR's map on and WOW what a difference! Does it have launch control? (I know it started without at the start of the thread but unsure if this version has it. Wouldn't work for me don't know if its the switch on my clutch pedal or not? I've attached the map I used

Told ya.  It should be plenty strong. I'll
Check when I get home and if it does not have nls anti lag ill upload it.  I have it modded.

Thanks! If anyone could convert this to an Hitachi maf I'd be extremely grateful!

Lots of available info on the DIY route.

MLOFS
KFKHFM
MLHFM

All need to be changed to convert Bosch--->Hitachi.

These are all copied from a file containing the MAF you want to use. This assumes your intake tract is stock. If it is not, consider setting KFKHFM to all 1's and adjusting from there.

Thanks for your help, our of curiosity which maf is better (With a stage 3 tune in mind) bosch or Hitachi?
I understand MLOFS, I understand what the others do but have no idea how to even go about scaling KFKHFM or how MLHFM corresponds to the maf housing diameter. Is it just a case of copying these tables from my original map? Again thanks for your help!

Given the same diameter housings, the Bosch sensor is capable of reading a much higher flow. This allows you to run a smaller housing and keeping good resolution in low flow areas.

I always use Bosch whenever possible.

Thanks (Y) Is it just a case of swapping the tables from my standard map to the tuned map? (Sounds too easy to be true)

Intake tract is stock, I've had a go at it, not done the checksums but I will attach what I've attempted. Think I understood your post correctly but please correct me if I'm wrong. If someone could point me in the right direction if its correct that wold be great!
So I started out with Adyspecs map (Bosch Maf) "551MSTG2.2.bin".
My standard map "audioriginalmap.bin"
I changed MLOFS from 200 > 0
I Copied my original tables KFKHFM and MLHFM from my original map to the new map "551MSTG2.hitachitest.bin". No idea if this is the correct way to do a maf conversion but if someone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Please note checksums haven't been done on my test file.
If anyone could help out that would be great, much appreciated!
I have attached all of the files used

good call ddillenger , thanks for the info

sounds like you did it correctly, just always use a checksum check tool after and you're clear to flash the file.. give it a flash and see if it runs, scan codes... "vagcom"

Just got round to finishing this off, I've made a couple of changes.
01/28/2014 23:06:23  Table:     KFKHFM changed.
01/28/2014 23:10:37  Scalar:    CW_CAN_R changed from  (0x00) to 32 - (0x20).
Used the KFKHFM values from NVM's map.
Thanks for all your help everyone!
Attempted to do checksums although my cmd just automatically closes the second the file is run, doesn't even give me a chance to see (closes in less than a second!) If anyone could do checksums/corrections for me I would greatly appreciate it, also any info or guidance on if I've done the maf correction would be great! Thanks in advance!

download the me7checkgui version

Managed to grab a screenshot before it closed, just! And no didn't know there was one! Do you have a link for the download?

meep meep

Thanks much appreciated!

==============================================================================
me7check v1.12 (c) mki, 06/2004-05/2012
Checking file C:\Users\benca_000\Desktop\S4 Tuning\Own Map\551MSTG2.hitachitest.bin (size=1048576)
Reading Version Strings...
-> Bootrom Version = embedded in CPU, asume 05.12/05.32
-> EPK = 40/1/ME7.1/5/6005.01//22m/DstC2o/011200//
-> Contents of ECUID data table:
   - '0261207143'         (SSECUHN)         
   - '1037360857'         (SSECUSN)         
   - '8D0907551M  '       (VAG part number)
   - '0002'               (VAG sw number)   
   - '2.7l V6/5VT     '   (engine id)       
-> Contents of ECUID data table:
   - 'HW_MAN004'                           

Page checksum failure(s) found
Data area checksum failure(s) found
-> Found 4 errors!!!   *******************************

No idea where to go from here without cmd haha

here you have


ME7Check v1.11 (c) mki, 06/2004-07/2011
Checking file 551MSTG2.hitachitest.bin (size=1048576)
Reading Version Strings...
-> Bootrom Version = embedded in CPU, asume 05.12/05.32
-> EPK = 40/1/ME7.1/5/6005.01//22m/DstC2o/011200//
-> Contents of ECUID data table:
   - '0261207143'         (SSECUHN)
   - '1037360857'         (SSECUSN)
   - '8D0907551M  '       (VAG part number)
   - '0002'               (VAG sw number)
   - '2.7l V6/5VT     '   (engine id)
-> Contents of ECUID data table:
   - 'HW_MAN004'

-> No errors found. File is OK.   *********************


Next time use check sum corrector http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3347.0title=

Open cmd and type me7sum "bad".bin "good".bin

Thank you very much! Ill give that a go now see if I can get it working! Will attempt to post up logs tomorrow, again thank you very much everyone for all of your help

Just a heads up. Not trying to bash anyone but then again we are all here for learning so here it goes. I was going to run adeyspecks's file because I currently run the nvr tune but wanted something with a little more timing and maybe a little more boost since i have larger injectors. yes i know this is not good on k03's blah blah blah yes I know the risk and yes I am prepared if my turbos explode as should anyone be that is interested in tuning or "stages". anyway. that being said. after a little research about adeyspecks's file I came to the conclusion it was not what I wanted because I noticed a thread where a known tuner was saying it was bad based on how it was adjusted. ie. mashing the + button on the timing tables and other things.

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=3722.0

regards. oh and hi brax ;)

Thanks for the heads up. I understand the risks, not really too bothered if it goes tits up as long as I learn from the experience :) Ill give it a try and hopefully if it works ill eventually learn how to tweak it correctly to make my car run better! But for now everything's a steep learning curve

Let me know what your outcome is. I am indeed interested. Maybe some logs?

Anyone know why this file would only get 15psi on a buddy's stage 2+?
Haven't spent the time to pressure test yet... Or log. 

And Aye! What's up! :)

That me7check should have a fix button after you scan it. It works for me.

....

Ha :) I know I know.

Still waiting on getting the car back up and running before I load the map on, bought some new discs and pads and got given the wrong discs 3 times!!! (Only around 4-5mm difference in height from the originals to the first set I was given) and when I've fitted them its bent the caliper carriers. So going to have to take it to a garage on Monday to get them replaced, the hex bolts are on far to tight, impossible to get off without a set of ramps :/ If only id noticed before I fitted them :@ Hopefully be sorted on Monday and get some videos and logs up!

Finally got the map on, car started and just died instantly, didn't sound healthy so put NVR's back on, any suggestions where I've gone wrong?
Also does anyone have NVR's stage 2++ for an Hitachi maf with NLS and Anti Lag/Launch control?

Be much appreciated :D

WOT at 2k RPM and see what it peaks at. It's not going to hit anything over 15 psi at 5k

Finally got it working, car does seem down on power compared to NVR's map, took some logs, ECUxPlot just crashes as soon as I open open the csv file, if anyone could check it over and let me know what you think that would be great!

Do you have the latest version? If not, please try it - I have no problem opening your .csv. Please do not report ECUxPlot bugs unless you have verified you have the most recent version.

I do have the most recent version, I just get this when opening the file with the loading cursor (cant be seen on screenshot)...
And if I click anywhere it just white screens.

Can you try clearing your prefs?

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\JavaSoft\Prefs\org\nyet\ecuxplot

while i read through most of this thread, I did not see a variation of the file for water meth injection. did i just miss it? or did you not make one?

There isn't a W/M file posted posted but all you would really need to do is add a few degrees of timing to the top end and make some logs to see where your CFs are at and make sure you keep them as Low as possible. Then you can change the fueling if you need to so that you dont run too rich.

Basically which is what I'm trying to do. Need to fix some things now and get ready for some logs.

Yeah that worked thanks mate! I gave up on changing the maf values in the map, started with NVR's stage 2 map, added nls and anti lag. Seems to be running fine most of the time, although when its cold and also after using anti lag it stops boosting properly, feels like a boost cut of some sort, very off/on. Could this have anything to do with running stock dv's? Only seems to have occurred since putting antilag/nls onto the map, (I also took the maf off to clean and replaced a boost pipe on the stock dvs which looked a bit worse for wear if this could have anything to do with it).
Just the usual fault codes except the charge pressure one.
17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
            P1473 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
            P0134 - 35-00 - No Activity
16538 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1
            P0154 - 35-00 - No Activity
17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1
            P1116 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17528 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S1
            P1120 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17863 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235)
            P1455 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17963 - Charge Pressure
            P1555 - 35-10 - Maximum Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Again any help is greatly appreciated!

WTF is all of that?!

Fix all hardware BEFORE TUNING!!!!!!!

And the file which I used....
Also when adjusting the values for antilag in tuner pro the current values don't seem correct. Tried a different XDF but the same results. Antilag and NLS works fine just want to lower the rpm for launch control

Will be mapping the o2 and egt sensors and evap leak out once the maps sorted :) Just curious what charge pressures about!

Any updates?

Looking at that it looks like you have the wrong O2 sensors unplugged... or your primary o2s are bad.

Been in the process of moving house so had no time to play about with the car, clutch is still slipping bad!
Probably be a few weeks before I even get the chance to have a look at it but that's for the info ill check it out (Y)

I have a 2001 S4 with a bone stock hbox.  The car has upgraded diverter valves, and downpipes.  I flashed this file and the car started, but idled terribly, very rough and noisy.  I reflashed the stock code back in and the car started and idled smoothly again.  Any ideas?

i actually have this file on my car right now and it runs very well for the most part. i ocassionaly get in limp mode and doesnt let me pass 5psi  but after driving for about a minute it runs great again. also, the NLS doesnt seem to work. when on WOT and try to use NLS from 3rd to 4th it feels weak in 4th and my aem airfuel gauge goes rich to 10s. when i dont use NLS on WOT everything work great, pulls hard and airfuel is in 12s in 4th gear. Any solutions?

I'm curious, would there be any benefit to changing anything for the 2.0tfsi coils? Couldn't find anything with the search function.

Last week I flashed the stage 2++ modified for my bosch maf and euro spec D-box.

Must say that I'm very pleased with the result. Drives like a dream.

My specs are: turboback ebay exhaust, ebay SMICs, 710Ns and copper/organic clutch plate.

Had the chance of putting it on the dyno today.

Bad result due to to little airflow through the ICs
From 5000 rpm was hitting 75°C IAT.
Ignitiontiming between 3 - 4000rpm went to 0°
Overall result was: 557Nm torque and 340hp at 5200rpm  at allmost 80°C IAT.

On the street it just pulls like hell to the redline.
And on liftoff it starts to backfire.

It just brings a smile to my face, and lets me forget that I have my stage 3 parts ready in the garage.
Will upload  the dyno report and a video of the driving this weekend :-)

Grtz Wesley

Nice to hear dyno results,  I use a modified copy of the same file. Didn't wanna dyno til I got downpipes next month and full exhaust. I can guess lower air temps will allow it to run advanced timing.

See attached screen shot of my phone android app. Outside air temp was 72° and I had sat at idle for 15 mins. This was after a pull to 60mph and only 4 miles on Highway.

My temp was 93° and I see in my logs I was advanced all the way thru.

93°F is a very good result after a few pulls.
Was your screenshot taken at full throttle?
My maf reaches 250 g/s iirc.

Grtz wesley

That was like at the end of a pull. I reach 254/255 g/s most times. This was just a quick screen shot while I made a run to the store. But I'm in  FL. It was 72° outside and 60% humidity and it was 12 am. I use stock A6 intake system with a pipercross filter. Gonna do mesh in wheel liners since the RS4 has vented liners for airflow. I now have also removed the A6 front grills for the smic scoops and painted everything beyond the lip where the grill goes black to look more like its ment to be that way. This has increased better cooling, but don't expect good results til upgraded SMIC's and also the wheel liner vents.

Also on a TIP/Auto you have the 2nd trans cooler restricting flow to driver smic and adding heat. Wanna change that too. Put it up front on passenger side infront of the rad fan.

In the daytime I see 120-150° at idle if I'm parked waiting for someone or drive-thru on 70-85 degree weather days. Most times my intake temps are 80° to 110° while playing around and just normally driving around. But also when I did my TB service 3 months ago I cleaned my stock SMIC's really good In and Out along with the throttle body so it's better then 138k worth of build up.

I'm looking at doing the smic on ebay $230 and the $140 bi-pipes from ssac/XSpower next month. Tonight I'm ordering my down pipes and exhaust. So we will see the difference. I can videotape with onscreen data with my Torque App for my phone so you could see intake temps, boost etc all on video in real-time.

Here is a example. *note boost numbers can be off cause the app makes you input ambient air pressure. I use 14.7 since I'm at sea level, so sometimes the boost can be off slightly on app.

This video is most accurate settings. Data rate is not so fast over bluetooth so it's not 100% synced, but the datalog files the app outputs are really good.

http://youtu.be/mjVDtAB8stA

This video is before I adjusted for ambient air pressure and the speed info was GPS and is slow. The 1st video and from now on are obd2 data instead.

http://youtu.be/ffGRKvlY2AM

the MPH beep is set 80 mph as you can see in video I'm not even to 80 mph by the gps data.

One last video. This was a setting test to see if changes I made were more accurate for boost. It's close to boost gauge but the 1st video I posted is almost dead on, this video was prior to 1st video. I'll do one tomorrow with IAT and Timing Advance added to viewable data in video..

http://youtu.be/HFbU7BBU6zI

The ebay SMICs are lager than the stock ones, but the fittings for the hoses are smaller and the material is thicker, making the useless for stage 3.

Even for stage 2 i'd recommend having them changed by a welder.

Grtz Wesley

Is it really that bad? I had a fmic on my last car. I'm talking 37"x16"x3.5" and it had 2.75" piping and flanged down to 2.5" at turbo outlet and it's flowed great with a PTE 6152e and even with the smaller Evo3Big16g. It was the SSAC FMIC for a 2g Eclipse 4g63 which they still sell today, I got mine back in 2004.

But I'm sure since there only $230 a little aluminum welding of new inlets n outlets wouldn't be too bad. I was also looking at the XSPOWER bi-pipes for $140 but the plastics oem aren't to bad of design and the plastic will stay cooler. Idk any ideas on them?

NOTORIOUS VR, I noticed you said you were on rev.4 in this post. The post only has rev.2, my question is do you have a newer revised verison of this tune you could share?

Here is my variation of the NVR file


Slickback_NVR stage 2 for 90oct, 91 oct and 93 oct. All logs with 2 people in car. Some minor adjusting to your specific vehicle and they should be good to go.

First set of logs and dyno with 91 oct file using 90 oct gas. These are the logs and mustang dyno result right before the final revision. The only mods the car has are bigger down pipes and exhaust.

(http://i.imgur.com/TDDu6uP.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/t6GUsNq.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/MaElzkL.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/7PWFM07.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/PgMXpr4.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/o8qDixs.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/yHgNw60.jpg)

285whp 343wtq

Will post up 93 oct logs (with IC's) from another car as soon.

Edit: logs as promised

(http://i.imgur.com/s2DAJQJ.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/V0W24FP.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/rUqOqxz.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/UHabfvq.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/YvNiON4.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/3QmVagj.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/uyaSaph.png)

(http://i.imgur.com/jUPvHF6.png)

The car probably has more potential if the cam tensioner wasn't ready to pop. It pulls pretty hard.

Please post up logs of 93 octane file I'd like to see them. I just finished up my modded file of NVR ' S L-Box 93 octane file posted in this thread. I'm gonna compare the bins see what changes you made. Downpipes for me get here sometime this week.

I have the XSpower downpipes-- bought the tip version before deciding to go ahead with my conversion to 6MT.  Quality is really good; I was surprised.  Tight welds and accurate fit.  Two issues I ran into:  One bolt hole would not properly line up with the turbo flange and took a little filing.  I also was not impressed with the V-band flanges.  The extension pipe flange is a small diameter and not rabbeted.  I have the catted version, so if you go catless it could be different.  You may want to have some high-temp gasket material on hand.

Gotcha. I talked to Lee at FTG Motorsports he says he's the maker of the downpipes. I purchased from him directly and will be doing a write up on them to show install. I got the cat-less ones, he sent me pics of the fitment by text and its a tight fit and looks really good. He said he is on version 3 of the tip/auto flex-braided 3" downpipes with v-band and then the one short and one slight longer mid pipes. The pics look great.

After I install them and do a write on on a few forums he offered a rebate. Like I said the bi-pipes and intercoolers are next. I wish I could afford his turbo's he has. To see what he has built and coming soon go on facebook and type FTG Motorsports they are in Irving, Texas.

Just got home, gonna take a look at the 93 octane file posted. Now question are these files branch offs of the OP file posted that say schnell-mbox_2.7T_stg2++_rev2.bin or Lbox file posted. Or are these the NVR Modified files posted? I wanna know so I can compare them.

Also question for anyone that uses TunerPro. My desktop got stuck displaying tables in hex mode. When I compare files, it will show a number value. But right now it shows Hex instead of numbers. I guess I click a keyboard shortcut or something lol. Luckey my laptop is still in  standard mode.

Here are pics of the version v3 downpipes I'm getting. These the same ones your were talking about? These are for the A6 I'm told, since it has the 2 shorter mid pipes as I can see from getting under the car are the correct setup for A6. Also I have rear mufflers cut off, and just have the mid muffler in place still. Idk how loud this will be but I"m hoping for decent amount of noise. Right now its too quiet and I don't get that nice putter to the exhaust note. Before I build the rear section I wanna see how it sounds with just the mid muffler and straight pipes to the back. I have a MY2000 so no muffler tip cut out's, I'm really just wanting to keep the crackling down by having muffler/resonators to remove the crackle.

Lee at FTG Motorsports said he is 65 days out from a CatBack for the C5 A6. He said its his own design and mixes billyboat and apr into his out style and setup.


(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/gsxeclipsepsi/Mobile%20Uploads/B5TIPS_zpskxrouj7q.jpg)


(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/gsxeclipsepsi/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_291304140668222_zpszo5pgzwb.jpeg)


(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/gsxeclipsepsi/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_291313551923105_zps8opkqapr.jpeg)


(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/gsxeclipsepsi/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_291325320111582_zpssimht9ys.jpeg)


(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/gsxeclipsepsi/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_291333398083992_zpsdzuzh7c0.jpeg)


(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/gsxeclipsepsi/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_291298577893564_zpspoweqq0s.jpeg)

In the table, right-click.  The option to show raw hex or calculated values is there.

Yes, exactly the same down pipes but my mids are catted (which was an experiment since that isn't a regular offering).  I went through Lee also. 

Thanks for the fix to tunerpro, I knew it had to be somewhere, just didn't know what it would be called.

I ported over the SLICKBACK 93 octane to a L-Box file I keep as a "STOCK" modded bin, I mean that I have my CEL's disabled and things like SAI removed and since I have a 2000 A6 I have to remove the brake boost and evap pump. But I will see how it runs. There are a few things I see modded that I have not seen other tuners touch. I didn't make a list of whichs ones just I compare a lot of tunes to see how people make changes for examples to understand the logic.

Also that's cool that Lee hooked you up with a pair, do you have pics of them b4 you installed them? I hope he ships them soon, I paid thursday. I'm in Florida so its almost a full 5 day in transit time.

No, sorry, no pics before or after.  I lost a day of installing the trans and pipes to the flue and was moving fast to get it back together before having to go back to work.

Posted up 93 oct logs, i'm aware of the notch. It should be fixed on the file i posted. I'll take a look at it shortly. Audiman, care to post logs? Also, those downpipes are SSAC. That guy at FTG lied to you.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/583520-ordering-new-intercoolers-for-my-01-Allroad-from-FTG-Motorsport

I mean Lee isn't the one who told me they were his at FTG. SSAC told me in a email. Here's what it said. The email was from xspower/ssac:

"HEY

YES WE HAVE WE DO

SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS

THIS IS WHAT WE HAVE FOR THE  A6

lee has a thread on FACEBOOK FOR  IT

PLEASE EMAIL LEE

 n1accordwagon@gmail.com;Ftgmotosspots@gmail.com

YOU CAN SEE  HIS BUILD THREAD

HE RUNS FTG MOTORS, OUR SISTER COMPANY -  THAT DEVELOPED THIS

if you do a thread for him, and do some install pics on ZINE- we can rebate  $25-$40  or  so !!!

 
Thanks

http://xs-power.com/
http://ssautochrome.com/"


Also, what file would you like logs of? And your notch,  I have found from a number of other files is the cam switch over points. This comes from the cam switch over which changes requested boost and there for makes a hiccup. It almost feels as if the car shifts a gear (in a auto/tip). I just change the cam switch over map and it clears up most of the time.

Also the logs look good. I was gonna test ur file after I bring wife to work today. You seem to be pulling good amount of air. So is the notch in these files that you posted?

The revision likely won't do much for anyone here as it was some specific tweaks on the A6 I was tuning at the time.

That said, it looks like people are really putting out some impressive numbers with my posted file with just a few changes (especially the guy who is posting 4 sec fats) which I'm loving and was precisely the whole point. 

FWIW, the file I posted is similar to the file I used when my car went 12.8 @ 112 mph on pump + 50/50 injection on K03's.  With the right changes K03's have a lot of potential, of course at the expense of longetivity :P

Ok. I ported over the file and ran it. Very nice. Problem for me is the exhaust is too restricted with stock dp's you can hear the area where the mufflers use to be sound like blow driers and the car holds back. My last car acted like that once I put a larger turbo and safc2 in. Of course it cleared up once the exhaust went on so I'll keep it saved for when my exhaust arrives. Thanks for sharing.

OK, Slickback's tune, I ported over to a L-box since that's what I run. Now I noticed that some things can't be copied over for I guess it corrupts the file. Basically these values make the ecu file flashed corrupt the ecu. It will flash and then when you cycle the key, the check engine light will start to flash and the throttle body clicks.

Can't make any changes to ARMD/Anti Jutter will corrupt the file. I have not found what else yet causes it. The file pulls fine, what happened for me is a vacuum line joiner blew apart, found it behind the Y-Pipe for the boost control line and got p1555 code. So I fixed that yesterday.

So today I go out to log, cause car was pulling great. And I go to do 3rd, get a p1556 and no power. Clear code, car pulls fine til 3rd, then boom 10% WG duty cycle. Only clearing code would bring back boost. So I do a pull from 1st, shift to 2nd shift to 3rd pulls til 5k then boom... no boost. So I come home and check the n75 (35 ohms) and look quick for boost leaks nothing I can see will build another tester (last one I lent out never came back).

Can someone give me input on what NOT to port over from a M-Box?

I have narrowed it down very lightly but I'm going threw this file together, my last NVR file and another file I reference. I have a feeling I missed something to copy over it attempts not to corrupt the file I was trying to flash. Boot mode in 100+ degree garage all day is no fun.

I read something on the forums about exhaust back pressure, and it's one of the things I reverted to a L-Box value in attempts to not corrupt file. Is this my culprit? Or the fact I still have the stock dp's still? I got logs if anyone wants to see. Posted below. Along with the file in its current state, I am modding it as we speak. Will test a few flashes but I only got 1 car and need to head out in a few hours.

Ok changed a few things, didn't notice I didn't change EGT temps. And below is a working file that flashes without issues. Here is a list of what I did not copy over. I will go a few at a time and add some and see what causes a corrupt file. This happend a few months ago when I tried to port over a NVR file and I gave up.


Things I did not copy to achieve a safe file posted below.

Torque
KFMIZUOF - Allowed indicated torque for torque limiting
KFMIZUFIL - Allowable indicated torque to torque limit before filter
KFMIZUNS - Allowable torque on afterstart extension
KFWPED_UM - Allowable torque from pedal position in functions monitoring
KFMPNS_UM - Allowable torque from pedal position on cold motor
KFMIOP - Optimal engine torque map

Throttle
KFWDKSMX - Maximum desired throttle plate angle
KFPED_0_A - Relative torque request from pedal
KFPEDR_0_A - Relative torque request from pedal for reverse gear
KFWPFGR - Inverse pedal map for cruise control
KFWDKMSN - Map for desired throttle plate angle

^Some of the changes are only .0xx of a change, does this really matter?

Now since I removed the SAI system I tried a file back 3 months ago where I copied over the warm-up maps from a M-Box to a L-Box since I thought maybe they were different for Automatic/TIP cars cause they had the SAI pump and it worked fine, so that's my next test. Now the maps that have to do with torque are they the ones effecting the tune or are they effect the file making it corrupt? I will edit post once I found out what caused the problem. File attached below is a better port, idk how I missed some of the things. Its cause I have a 2000 A6 and have SAI removed so I have to remove EVAP and Brake Booster I overlooked the EGT temps thinking they where for the other stuff the MY2000's don't have.

TESTv3.0 - NVR_Slickback_L-Box_93oct_+Mods
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ks3a4cmprat0fl6/KENDEL_TEST_3.0.bin

- Mods -
Raised Idle - P & N and in Gear
Removed SAI
Removed Brake Booster
Removed EVAP Purge
Removed P1650 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
Removed P1624 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!)
"Plus anything removed in SlickBack's or NVR original files"

** Enabled Left Foot Braking (disabled throttle cut on "power braking") Builds 11psi or so

This is a test file, I am going to test file now.

*****UPDATE*****
Car is still not responding well to this file. It was sounding great under the hood, you could hear the engine was making what I call good noise, like it was working hard. The car however only pulled high boost a few times, then after awhile only 10psi. Then I pulled over and put my cooked up NVR file back on and car was back to pulling good and 20-21psi but not the same amount of airflow (240-255 g/s) vs 260-270 g/s on slickbacks file and not really as smooth. I wanted to run a cook up of slickback's file but I'll wait til downpipes. According to SSAC/XSpower they are being welded up still.

I noticed that there was an L-BOX file for Tiptronic, but only for a Hitachi MAF. I went ahead and converted that file for a Bosch MAF.

I'm sure someone will thank you for doing that for them  ;D

Haha I don't doubt it, I read through this whole post, did my homework and learned the code needed for conversion. I understand it better now! Still have alot to learn though. My only issue now is that p1612 code saying that my electronic control module is coded incorrectly.

You need to recode your ecu. Since ur using a S4 file you need to code it as if it was a S4 but with options, like abs and esp. Here is  how ddlinger put it for me.

"If your car is a 2000, 06651. If it is a 2001 with ESP, 06751. 06752 will not work on an L-box file."

06751 is the only code my car will take. I have a 2000 A6 2.7T with a 4B L-Box original file with abs and no esp. They either code above and see if you message goes away.

Good luck

I modified your 93 octane file for a Hitachi MAF and flashed it to my '01... I have got to say, I am pretty impressed. I will do some logs of my own and see what needs tweaking for my setup, but its pretty bad ass.

One thing the, no lift shift doesn't seem to work in my car, though launch control does (but with some nasty pinging). Guess I need to check my clutch switches.

A little update on this file... I was playing with it today and demonstrating the anti-lag to a friend of mine. Seems the pinging is gone (probably just carbon deposits due to my lack of a catch can on this car) and it will hold 10psi, but, immediately after two 2-3 second demonstrations the car went into soft limp and wouldn't boost past 6psi. I figured I blew up my ancient N75 or split a hose, but everything under the hood checked out. Cleared the codes and we're back at 23psi.

What was the code?

Whoops, got distracted. 17538 and 17536 - fuel trim too lean on both banks.

that isn't good. you should keep an eye on your trims.

I'm pretty sure AL/NLS shouldn't affect trims... but i could be wrong. And if it doesn't, you've got other issues...

"Too lean" is not something you want to see.

Right. I will also say that I swapped in an old 4 bar FPR when I installed this tune (I had a 5 bar installed with my MTM tune). I'm going to do some logging tonight and tomorrow and see what comes up. Might as well check my intake tract and clean my MAF element, too.

OK, so after ruling out hardware issues, I took a closer look at the file. KFKHFM was not corrected in the conversion, and FKKVS was a little off. We'll see what I log after this flash...

this is my first post and just wanted to say there is some amazing work being put in here. are these attached files for use on a m box or something else. iv never done tuning just researching right now, what are some minor tweaks that id have to look at? would i be able to change this file for 18psi on 93? 

First post!

So I just took some logs from the Slickback 93 hitachi file. This is my first time taking logs so I hope I did it right. Just posting the same logs that Aysix did. Ambient temp was around 72*F 65% humidity. This was the 2nd pull, unfortunately I had to let off before I could get to 6500 on the first pull.
Quick background on the car -
Early 01,
AWE Catless DP's &Twin 1
AWE IC's
034 DV's
APR bipipe
EvoMS intake (came with car, worthless?)
Samco hoses
15lb ssr's

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/icrabtree8203/PSIWGA_zps7614ecfe.png) (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/icrabtree8203/media/PSIWGA_zps7614ecfe.png.html)

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/icrabtree8203/MAF_zps44f7a28e.png) (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/icrabtree8203/media/MAF_zps44f7a28e.png.html)

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/icrabtree8203/IAT_zpsdec24d83.png) (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/icrabtree8203/media/IAT_zpsdec24d83.png.html)

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/icrabtree8203/AFR_zps8503d713.png) (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/icrabtree8203/media/AFR_zps8503d713.png.html)

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(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/icrabtree8203/Ignition_zpsde1c9ff7.png) (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/icrabtree8203/media/Ignition_zpsde1c9ff7.png.html)

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/icrabtree8203/FATS_zps5efab1cd.png) (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/icrabtree8203/media/FATS_zps5efab1cd.png.html)

I had this issue last night at the track. If I would engage antilag, but then let off, and go back on then try to launch, it would bog and only boost to 5-6psi in first, and 2nd, but then 3rd and 4th it would boost to 20-21ish.

However, it worked fine when I engaged antilag, slipped the clutch, without letting off the throttle. I wonder what it is? I scanned for codes with vcds right after the first run that did it and there wasn't anthing.

FWIW: The best run last night was a 13.17 at 105.47 with a 1.87 60'. There's a lot left in it. I think I might bump the launch RPM to 4000 and try out NLS on the 3rd to 4th shift.

(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/icrabtree8203/timeslip_zps10e0ba96.jpg) (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/icrabtree8203/media/timeslip_zps10e0ba96.jpg.html)

EDIT - After looking through the AL/NLS section of the tuning wiki, I noticed it said that some "features" such as Disabling Misfire and Knock detection (during AL/NLS) could be missing from the code.. Possibly causing a DTC/Limp or Pulled timing. I'll definitely log my next 1/4 mile runs.

Right, so i couldnt sleep tonight and have been working on getting the hang of all this. and i finally accomplished something lol. yesterday my new ft232 cable came so i can start flashing so i actually started with judes stage 1 but i needed egt delete so i ran the egt coded file in this thread and loved it despite the fact i only had 91 octane, but i didnt feel it was safe, so i flashed the stage 2 one from the thread a couple down, definitely does not pull like this file. since i have a tip car and 91 octane and needed egt delete i decided to port the 91octane tune over and added egt delete.

Ported for LBOX tiptronic with Hitachi.
Removed AL/NLS, not really useful in a tip.
added EGTdelete

ran this with ME7checksumGUI and ported over using tunerpros compare feature. once you get the hang of the features and using the GUI version of ME7 it takes about a min to transfer over the file.

Checked and corrected.

I made a small revision to the aysix slickback 93 file. Changed the maf to hitachi, raised the rev limiter to 7200 from 7000 and raised the antilag launch to 4000 from 3500.

As long as the weather is okay Wednesday I'll be going to the track. I'll take some logs and post the file if anyone wants it.

How did the weather hold out? Did you get a good track day? Did the flash run the way you wanted.??

Unfortunately, no. I'll make it to the track soon hopefully.

OK, I'm new to tuning. I've been reading the wiki and playing around with TunerPro. I'm running EV14s 550, RS4 MAF. I tried to merge my fueling onto the NVR file. I keep having an issue with ME7check/sum GUI. It won't correct errors in the file. Could anyone give me some pointers on this? Did I miss anything?

Didnt look it over thoroughly but i imported over original said 7 checksums were wrong corrected them here you go.

Great. Thanks. I guess I'll flash it and see how it idles first.

What did you use to correct checksums?

Winols

Never heard of it, I'll have to check it out. Thank you.

so hows this file running? id really like to try one of the revisions as a base and add meth to it.
im asuming since theres 23 pages on it tho it must be decent ha =p

My car runs great. It needs some work in the part throttle range, but I don't daily my car so when I do drive it I'm driving pretty hard and not really worried about part throttle ;D

I used the Slickback 93 octane file and changed a number of things..

Increased the Rev limit from 7,000 to 7,200 (for 1/4 mile use, don't have to shift into 4th)
Increased the antilag from 3,500 to 4,000. (haven't tested this yet at the track to see if it helps, but I was stuck with low 1.8 60ft's. I'm hoping the extra 500rpm will get me into the 1.7's.)
Changed the Maf from Bosch to Hitachi.

Some other stuff. I love it though.

that sounds awesome i had to send my meth controler in damn thing shit the bed on me....
as so as i get it back tho hopfuly ill be able to do some tweaking

Everytime I run a the slickback 93oct file or my port of the file I get the same results after a few pulls.

17964/P1556 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation

I have no clue why, no other file I have made or cooked up has ever had that problem. The few differences really from the 93Oct L-box or B-Box files listed in this thread that NVR made and he (SlickBack) used to make his is the min airflow for dtc that's changed from 20 to 10 (of course there is other tweaks, like timing, back pressure for SAI etc).

Other then that I can't seem to figure out why SlickBack's 93oct file will not run on my car without getting a P1556 code. It seems to run good, the B-Box file I ported over to a L-Box is running great. Just slickbacks file seems to have a better FATS so I was looking to implement his changes.

That is overboosting.  It means the boost PID is not dialed in for that setup. 

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Throttle_cut

Ok, so overboost is what I figured too now that I am starting to understand it.

It looks like the LDRXN was too much in the 93 octane slickback file. What I did was do the switchable maps that phila_dot setup so I could test 4 tuned timing and LDRXN map setups on 1 flash, Saves time.

So I took the LDRXN from the 90oct slickback file and put it with the timing maps from the 93oct file and smooth on point boost and good numbers even in the super humid night. Just got back in from a few logs and runs and its 2:51am. From what I read it could have been requested boost at current loads were too much, it seems to do it mostly after 6k, but now its seems good. I am just getting into tuning the maps myself and wanted to see how things work. I got it and I'm understanding it. I'm ordering the meth injection kit cause the intake temps are killing me, and for $288 I'm wiling to pay that to get intake temps in the summer down to something normal.... 200* is just plan horrible right now.

Hmmm was running this file adapted to my euro S4, but now in summer when i'ts around 30°C or 86°F I'm having problems.

Everytime I put my foot down it boosts to 2 bar (29PSI) and the throttle body hose pops off (first one had a huge crack, the new pops off).

Anybody else having this problem?
It used to boost to around 1.5 bar (22PSI) and everything was ok.

grtz
Wesley

That is likely a mechanical issue as if you didn't change anything in the tune and the boost went from 22psi to 29psi you probably broke a hose to the wastegates or have a dead n75.  Check for mechanical issues.

For him to boost 29psi I'd guess bad n75 maybe. I don't know these cars that well. But that and the n249 are the only 2 ecu controlled PID's that are gonna keep the wastegate shut, or maybe he has a bad wastegate, but if he had a line broken to a wastegate he would be running stock wastegate spring pressure correct?

Plus, the car is allowing 29psi? Is overboost protection disabled on your file?

And I have had someone play with my Electronic Boost Controller in my last car I guess while they where drunk and when I switched to high boost the EBC register 32psi, on a evo3big16g which the car felt like a beast and pulled so flawlessly it was amazing, til the intercooler piping popped of and killed the car. I then looked at the boost controller screen to see it say 32psi, so I know the feeling of blowing the pipe off on that high of boost, luckly it does and did for both of use. That boost pressure is not safe for those size turbos or the fueling. Kind of like a extra extra saftey feature lol

Been checking and testing for some time, it's my boost gauge that is lying to me, with its hose disconnected still reading 0.5bar (7PSI)

Boost sensor is reading ok in VCDS, with N75 disconnected i'm getting 0.4 bar (5-6PSI)

Everything looks fine, so I'm going to use som 'fix-all' and just glue my hose to the TB.

What's the point of having an Boostgauge to check on everything if you can't even rely on the d*mn thing. :(

grtz
Wesley

Tell Me About it. My new boost Gauge comes today. My last one was digital with a sending unit. Got tired of its cheap ebay crappy b/s so I got a new brand one that comes today. I see 20psi in beds while the Gauge reads 15-17. And it's in psi on vacuum and had me looking for vacuum leaks when it's the Gauge...

Hey guys. Here's my revised file.. A couple people asked for it a while back, I just got kind of busy.

Quick recap -
4,000 RPM antilag
7,200 RPM rev limit
NLS is still at 3,500
Hitachi
No EGT's or rear 02's
93 octane

Please be careful using this file.

Do you have you change log file tunerpro outputs ?

Here is an updated Bosch Stock 73mm MAF File with this tune. please note this is for RON 98 (USA 93octane).

IT HAS NOT BEEN CHECKSUMMED - REQUIRED Reason being is because I use a Mac, ME7SUM and ME7Check don't work on MAC Terminal.

Just a heads up the MAPS that require changing for an RS4 MAF are:
-MLHFM
-MLOFS
-KFMLDMN
-KFMLDMNX
-KFKHFM

If this is correct i'll post a file from the RS4 8D0907551Q box.

Regards.

Josh

Here:

bruh It says 98ron

is there a chance I could get this file or one with bosch maf with a checksum complete?

Copy over MLHFM and MLOFS, and run me7sum on it. If you can't be bothered to do that (or learn how to do it), you don't belong here :)

I already made the map with the correct maf tables but I cant get the checksum to work properly I get 1 good run cycle out of it then it locks out and wont start

Has this been checksum’d ?

Why not check it for yourself?

I have modified this file to run it on an m-box in a euro c-box car if anybody is intrested ill post it up.

Alternately, list the modifications and the motivation for each.

Removed fault codes
P1606
P1650
P1523
P1473
Everything that was removed in the original NVR file such as rear o2s (euro s4 doesnt have that)
Bosch MAF (Have one file for RS4 MAF)

In short terms thats what i found needed changing to make the file compatible on a c-box car.

where is the file? the tip version you stated?

they where all removed

I have a tip car and i took the Nefmoto Stage 2++ tune and trasferred all maps over to an L bin. Car runs ok but i get a P1612 coding error and i also have 2 codes for EGT. Has anyone successfully switched this thing over to work in a Tip car?

p1841 is variant coding, you dont have it configured proper and egt codes are from your egt sensors being shit. if you spent 5 min reading the wiki youd be able to clear that up without an issue.

I also go into limp mode after a few wot runs, who has successfully configured this ++file for an L box? I would like a copy.

Start with the community files. Stop looking for this file, it will do you no good.